CVE3400B Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Took the old filter out and put a new one in. No tools no fuss no muss. Very easy.

Thanks to the highest rated user comment and following his instructions the switch exchange was easy. The supplied instructions were of little to no help and confusing. The hardest part was getting to the two side top Phillips screws because the granite counter top was in the way necessitating raising the stove till the screw heads were exposed. Once raised the front cover was easily removed after undoing six screws. The cook top did not need to be removed. Either of the supplied wires would work and only one of the two was needed. The replacement switch performed far better than the original.

the filter fit because the scale in the photo allowed me to choose which one to buy!

The old grease filter was removed and the entire downdraft was cleaned. The new filter was slipped in. It is so nice to have the old one out. I am so appreciative of finding this part. :-)

Remove the connectors (ID where it goes on the new item). Unscrew the two screws and remove the broken radiant filaments. Install and screw the new radiant filaments; then, connect back the connectors to it's proper connections.

turned off power to stove top..lifted unit out unscrewed top and switch had 2 screws re-placed switch and put back together.. make easy $100 plus switch

Lifted the range top about 2 1/2 inches, removed the ceramic top and replaced the burner. Tested the burner before replacing the top. Everything worked fine.

Looked up the part on the internet. Found it with ease. The thing I did miss was that the switch had a small nub to keep it in the right place in the Glass top. The repair went easy. Probably took no more than 15 minutes. I would use PartSelect again.

The repairs was really easy. All you had to do was remove the screws holding the glass top surface down, raise it up, then start by pulling one wire at the time and plugging it into the new element. Then bolt the glass top surface down and it was ready to use, good as new.

Knocked breaker removed stove top from iland removed a dozen screws replaced switch put screws back in installed top back in iland put breaker back in worked purfect.

Removed two screws holding cooktop to oven. Unlike the video, the cooktop was not detachable as the wires were hard-wired to the range, so I had to prop the top up with a 6" block of wood and was working upside down. I replaced the element and everything worked just fine.

verified that the heating element was at fault by measuring it with ohmmeter. There are 3 contacts on the outside of the element. Resistance between center contact and either outside contact should read something close to 0 ohm, if it is good, and if it is burned, it will read open circuit (infinite resistance). Wanted to make sure that this is not the switch, which I replaced a few months ago. Before I disconnected all the connectors from the element I made picture of all the connections, just in case I forgot what gets connected to what (didn't use it, though). Installing the new element was very easy. Most work is done getting access to the element. Repair went smoothly, range works fine, now.

The single burner switches were exactly the same as the old switches, and only took 10-15 minutes to replace two of them, including the time to remove the twelve sheet metal screws holding the glass top in place. The dual burner switch, however, was a totally different switch, and none of the wire colors matched any of the instructions. One set of instructions said there was no need to separate the paired red wires, while the instructions with the switch said they must be separated...ignoring the color code, and going by terminal numbers only, the first set of instructions led to the point of separating the paired red wires and attaching a female connector (which was not included in the package)to the red wire from the burner assembly and connecting that wire to the #2 terminal on the new switch. When the remaing red wire was attached to P2, there was barely enough slack in the wire to install the switch in it's proper orientation. All of this required numerous trips to the circuit breaker panel to test the connection. One of the jumper wires had a female connector which didn't fit any of the terminals on the burners or the switch. The instructions with the switch could very well confuse even a licensed electrician, as none of the burner connections are labeled.

Unscrewed three screws securing the glass top. Lifted glass top and wedged it open. Took a picture of the current wiring. Removed old burner.Compared male contact points on new and old burner. Plugged new burner in appropriately. Note: The new burner is MUCH hotter than the old one.

Turned off power, disconnected wires, cut tape on exhaust fan connection, removed cooktop from counter and removed glass top from assembly, removed screws on switch, switched wires from old switch and installed on new switch, reinstalled everything, restore power and checkout new switch positions. Everything worked.