JEC8536ADF Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

My dual zone burner would trip my breaker anytime i tried to turn it on. All the other burners would work fine. I searched online and found a way to test my burner, which was shorted or grounded out. I purchased a new burner from the site...It was as cheap or cheaper than other sites. It showed up a few days quicker than i was expecting..I also replaced the switch to the burner, just as a precaution and to save time since i already had the top glass off of my burners....EASY JOB!

Tools required - #2 Phillips and needle nose pliers. (possibly a new spade connector and stripper/crimper) (possibly a multi-meter)

Shut off the power and slide the range forward about 8-10 inches from the wall. It does not need to be completely in the open and perhaps would not need to be moved at all. Some of the parts may be stuck with accumulation of cooking debris and grease, depending on age. Disassembly will be a bit more difficult than a new range because of this. Clean everything up before reassembly.

Open the oven door. Remove two screws, one on either side, below the control panel. Lift and work the control panel loose. It has two bullet shaped posts that engage slots in the front of the range. These are tight. Be patient and work it by lifting and pulling and wiggling the entire control panel. When loose, it will lay down flat supported by all of the wiring harnesses. In our case it did not stress the wires. If concerned, support it somehow.

There is a galvanized bracket that runs most of the width of the range and retains a rubber gasket on the front edge of the glass. Remove two screws that hold this bracket. The bracket easily comes loose, set it aside.

There is a stainless steel trim piece on each side of the cooktop, running from front to back. Each one is held in place by one screw in the front. Remove the screws and the two trim pieces will slide forward and can be removed. Set them aside.

There is a rubber gasket across the front edge of the glass cook surface. Remove it. The cooktop glass can now be lifted and worked loose from the rear rubber gasket that seals across the back edge. Set the cooking surface aside in a safe place. You now have access to the burner elements.

Using the needle nose pliers, work the spade terminal connectors loose from the burner that is to be replaced. Note their positions. The burner is held in place by two spring clips that attach the burner to a galvanized support bar that runs from front to back of the range. A screwdriver can be used to compress each clip allowing a tab to be lifted out of a slot in the galvanized bar. If needed, you can remove one front screw that holds the bar in place and lift it for better access, but while this is not necessary, it allows for a better view of the retainer clips and the tabs that fit into slots in the support bar. With both clips released, the burner is free to be removed.

Our burner clearly had a break in the coil, so there was no doubt about the cause of non-functionality.

The spring clips must be removed and transferred to the new burner. With both burners, face down on a bench, remove the screws that retain the clips to the old burner. Make note of the index numbers at the position of the old clips and place them at the same position on the new burner. This positions the burner when it is mounted so that the terminals are properly positioned to allow the wiring harness to be attached as it was.

With the spring clips in place on the new burner, place the burner back in the range and engage the tabs in the slots on the support bar. They will snap back into place. Reconnect the spade connectors. The burner should now be tested before reassembly. (see later)

In our case, when power was reestablished (but burner control in the off position) the Surface Hot light was on art all times, so we knew something was wired wrong, even though it was re-connected exactly as it had previously been. There are slight differences between the new burners and old burners that apparently impact the wiring. There are no markings on either the old burner or new burner to give clues as to how it should be wired. Neither was there any advice in the instruction sheet that came with the new burner. We tested all of the terminals with the power on (burner off) to determine what voltages were where and removed the cover of the small box to which the terminals are attached. This box contains small switches, and we were able to determine the new wiring scheme. By wiring it exactly as it originally was, we had inadvertently put power to the Surface Hot light full time and the same potential to both sides of the coil so it would not heat. With this corrected, it worked fine.

As always, reassembly is just the reveres of the steps taken to disassemble. It is a bit tricky to place the glass back in the rear gasket. Just be careful and work it into place. Also the front control panel can be challenging. Line up the bullets with the slots and work it into place. It will snap into place when it is close with the aid of the heel of your hand.

One other note. One of the four wires in the harness had a smaller female spade connector which had to be cut off and a new one crimped on in order to fit the new burner.

Because of the wiring logic issue that had to be troubleshot, this took about three hours, which included disassembly and reassembly twice (because we reassembled before testing), figurin

This was a simple replacement of a burner knob. The website had exactly what I needed, including a photograph so I was sure it was the exact match. Delivered quickly and was perfect.

I used the digital multimeter for measure the voltage in the burner and in the digital part,I saw the electric cables

Removed unit from counter, removed 14 screws holding glass top to frame, removed ceramic element, swapped over mounting brackets to new element, checked wireing as per instruction sheet (direct replacement) connected wires, re-installed glass top to frame and placed back into counter. ops check good.

Thanks for the previous viewer's tip, disconnect power, pushed the cook top out of the counter and used a wood block for the support. Unscrew the smooth top from the burner, remove old and plug in the new one. Connect power, test OK. Put everything back.

I lifted off the broken handle and replaced it with a new handle. It worked.

Took broken knob off and slid the new one on. DONE!!!

First went to an appliance distrib. store.They would have to part.Was qouted a price.Wenthome and went online to partselect.com and saved 40% even with shipping.Got the part the next day!Pulled old knob off and pushed new knob on.Thank you for making it easy.

We have had this appliance for 18 months. Within one month the first knob broke. A month later, the second knob broke. We have gently been using the remaining 2 knobs for 4 burner positions until recently when the other 2 broke. I am hoping these new knobs are made better then those that came with the appliance.

So simple -- any monkey could do it. Pull off the old knobs and push on the new.

Removed old knobs and replaced with new ones.

The part was here three days after ordering and I put it on with no tools in less than a minure.

Got on line and ordered part and lined up flat side of inside of knob and slid it on... That simple... The person who put them on after cleaning stove never knew there was a flat side inside knob.. We never stop learning, do we???

with my own two hands, just slip it on--- no story.you folks came through quikly with no complications and deserve a compliment.