JED8430ADB Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Only had to get long-nosed pliers to pull remains of broken knob from cavity. New knob was easy push-on and repair was completed!

Ordered new part--on line help said pull all remaining parts out--small pair of plyers and yanked internal parts out--the new part just slipped down over the u-post and back in business--couldn't have been easier

This repair was extremely easy. I was able to lift off the broken fan knob with some pliers. The new knob easily fit and the new knob works like a dream!

We lifted the glass top, uninstalled the old burner and installed the new burner in it's place. It worked right away - and is still working. No other tricks the new burner was a perfect fit.

the filter fit because the scale in the photo allowed me to choose which one to buy!

The old grease filter was removed and the entire downdraft was cleaned. The new filter was slipped in. It is so nice to have the old one out. I am so appreciative of finding this part. :-)

Repair was simple thanks to feedback from this site.

turned off power to stove top..lifted unit out unscrewed top and switch had 2 screws re-placed switch and put back together.. make easy $100 plus switch

Knocked breaker removed stove top from iland removed a dozen screws replaced switch put screws back in installed top back in iland put breaker back in worked purfect.

Lifted the range top about 2 1/2 inches, removed the ceramic top and replaced the burner. Tested the burner before replacing the top. Everything worked fine.

Looked up the part on the internet. Found it with ease. The thing I did miss was that the switch had a small nub to keep it in the right place in the Glass top. The repair went easy. Probably took no more than 15 minutes. I would use PartSelect again.

Removed two screws holding cooktop to oven. Unlike the video, the cooktop was not detachable as the wires were hard-wired to the range, so I had to prop the top up with a 6" block of wood and was working upside down. I replaced the element and everything worked just fine.

1. Remove power from unit. 2. Removed 1/4" sheet metal screw from lower blower vent tube. 3. Lifted the unit above the counter and placed two 1x2" boards between the unit and counter. To remove the Stove Top to get access to the Element you must remove 8 each 1/4" sheet metal screws from the bottom side of the Stove Top attaching flange. 3 each screws on the forward and aft side and 1 each on the left and right side. (Note, the 8 each 1/4" attaching screws are at the top of the Stove Top attaching flange.) 4. Remove the Vent Grill and locate the 2 each cross point screws on the center left and right side of the opening. (Note. Due to the limited space, I used a right angle cross point driver.) 5. Remove Stove Top. 6. Tag electrical connections. Remove and replace Element. 7. Turn on power and check Element. Remove power and Reassemble Unit.

Removed the cook top from the counter. Removed the switch housing and then the switch. Found a match and ordered. Part came in 2 business days. Once I put together the housing and connected the wire housing the burner worked perfect. The downdraft fan remained on. Placed a call to Jenn Air service and was asked to disconnect the fan switch. There must be some memory in the solid state portion of the switch. After a few mins I replaced the fan switch and hooked up the wiring. All worked fine.

The single burner switches were exactly the same as the old switches, and only took 10-15 minutes to replace two of them, including the time to remove the twelve sheet metal screws holding the glass top in place. The dual burner switch, however, was a totally different switch, and none of the wire colors matched any of the instructions. One set of instructions said there was no need to separate the paired red wires, while the instructions with the switch said they must be separated...ignoring the color code, and going by terminal numbers only, the first set of instructions led to the point of separating the paired red wires and attaching a female connector (which was not included in the package)to the red wire from the burner assembly and connecting that wire to the #2 terminal on the new switch. When the remaing red wire was attached to P2, there was barely enough slack in the wire to install the switch in it's proper orientation. All of this required numerous trips to the circuit breaker panel to test the connection. One of the jumper wires had a female connector which didn't fit any of the terminals on the burners or the switch. The instructions with the switch could very well confuse even a licensed electrician, as none of the burner connections are labeled.