JED8430BDF Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Note that this model# is not my exact model#, I couldn't find it - but its almost identical to this newer version of my Maytag glasstop drop-in stovetop.

Also note that these instructions are VERY generic and not detailed, as most all stoves will be different in assembly.

Be advised that you are NOT getting the part you see in the picture. It is going to be a newer part that does the same thing. It's a lot smaller and has an offwhite top. It will STILL work, don't return it! The only difference is that the labels on the connections will be a little different - see the other post here on this page that shows how they differ and what to connect to what. Thanks to them I was able to complete this fix easily!

Close the breaker to the stove to ensure no electricity is running to the stove! Use a voltage tester to make extra sure no electricity is running through the cables, they are cheap at home depot!

Just disassemble your stovetop to get to the area that houses the switches. You will see the switch boxes underneath where your knobs go. Take a picture of all connections if you can so you remember where everything plugs in. You'll have about 3-6 cables connected to the switch depending on your stovetop. There are labels on the old switch (L1, L2, etc) at each electrical connector the cables attach to - probably on the top or bottom of the switch. Write down the connector label and what color wire its connected to. Do this for each connection.

If the old labels dont match your new labels, you have an older switch and need to check the other post on this page that someone posted showing how the old labels translate to the new labels.

Now reconnect everything back the same way you took them off and you are good to go!

Such a simple fix and you'll save hundreds.

I put the new knobs on the posts.Dropped in a new grease filter. All done!

I merely lifted the downdraft cover and inserted the new screen as
directed. THANK YOU FOR YOUR PROMPT RESPONSE TO MY ORDER.

Ordered a replacement grease filter.

used pliers to remove broken knob and push new one on with my hand

Disconnected fan from vent and raised cook top and rotated one quarter turn to rest on counter top so I could remove screws with 1/4 inch nutdriver in oder to lift cook surface from unit, then install new switch and reassemble in reverse order. Work perfectly!

removed motor, saw that stablizers were broke and went to a local parts supply shop called SUNDBERG and was given a price of about 49.00 for three stablizers. at that point i went to the internet and found PARTSELECT.COM were i found the same parts for a fraction of the price,17.00, i could not believe it! SUNDBERG customer service was horrible.PARTSELECT custormer service is great and was just over the internet,any how the repair is done no more loud noise and wife is happy again ,for awhile.thanks keep up the good work.i tell everybody about you guys.

just needed clearner for the top of my glass top, the operator was very helpful I received my clearniner in 7 days thank you

Just placed new filter in slot

I carefully removed the disgusting old filter and took straight to trash. I then used my wet/dry vacuum to clean the rest of the loose debris from the area where the filter area is located. I used a clean, dry cloth to wipe the remainder of the material away and then carefully lowered the clean new filter down into it's new home. So easy, it took longer to type out these directions :)

very easy slip in

Opened the top section of the stove. Re-routed wires to be connected from the speed control device into the new cord. And done. Put everything back thogether.

1. remove corlan cover from base of unit 2. study original wire pattern of old burner and switch; write down pattern on paper 3 gently remove wires with needle nose pliers.4 replace with new burner and switch with color coded wire pattern copying the original wiring 5 reinstall corlan cover on base. remember to shutdown cooktop from either circuit breaker or fuse in order not to electrocute yourself while working remember wires are live until shut down from main source of power

This Jennifer-Air cooktop has a black Schott Ceran surface. I unplugged the unit and disconnected the vent duct then removed the unit from the cabinet and shifted it 90 degrees to gain access to 10 screws that hold surface to body. Connections for replacement burner are slightly different than the original. I photographed wiring/connectors them removed the old burner. I removed mounting clips from old burner and installed them on the replacement (required two small tapping holes in aluminum case of replacement burner element). Installed new element and attached connectors (wires). No joy, outside element still did not heat - placed a dual element switch on order (have not received it yet). To be continued.

This was a repair project on a Jenn-Air built-in stovetop, which I had trouble finding instructions on how to disassemble. My particular problem was that three of the four burners had no temperature control. They were either on high or off - no such thing as simmer. This is opposite the problem described as a normal indicator of burner control failure. Usually the burner just goes dead. The hardest part of the repair was accessing the metal plate the burner controls are mounted on. First, I flipped the circuit breaker to the stovetop. It will shock the cr@#p out of you if you don't (I have experience from poking around down there without turning the power off). First, I had to remove the two burner inserts. The left one lifted from the top and the right one lifted from the bottom. Don't lift them past about 30 degrees. They are meant to lift up just enough to clear the tray well and then slide out. After removing the burner inserts, I was able to unscrew the eight fasteners holding down the stovetop rim. After removing this, I pulled out the trays underneath the burner inserts and put them aside without unscrewing the ground wires that attach them to the stovetop chassis. After removing the two screws holding on the active burner indicator lights, I was able to pull it up and lay it aside. Then I had to unscrew the two large brackets under the cabinet to loosen up the stovetop chassis so I could lift the front of it up an inch from the cabinet to enable me to unscrew two small metal screws that attach the metal plate holding the burner controls. After removing the two screws holding each burner control to the metal plate, I could unplug each of the five wires from the old controllers and plug them into the new controllers, in turn, before reattaching the new controllers to the metal plate. After repeating this procedure two more times, I reversed the process to reassemble the stovetop and voila, turned on the power and it worked perfectly. The result; a happy wife. For today.