6637300 Kenmore Air Purifier - Instructions

Be very, very careful not to cross thread the filler hose, onto the nylon valve housing. Recommend some lubrication, and a pair of velvet gloves.

just like the vidio, only a had to remove the back panel to replace the valve. but we ., or should say my mother has a working wacher now,thank you for your help,

Unplugged AC cord. Removed hot and cold supply hoses. Removed front cover (2 Phillips screws near bottom). Raised lid, and removed fastening screw for injector tube. Removed retaining screws for inlet valve mounting plate. Positioned mounting plate partially inside rear of machine and removed (4) wires for solenoid connections. Re-positioned mounting plate slightly outside machine and removed valve mounting screws and old valve. Attached new valve (no modification to valve needed for my machine), and worked backwards through the steps listed above.

Maytag made this easy. The water value was mounted to a plate on the back of the washer removed one screw, pulled the plate from the washer, removed the valve, reconnected the electrical connections and outlet hose, re inserted the plate, attached with screw and tested. 30 minutes tops and I hwve never done this before. Thanks to partsselect and others for recomenning the correct repair. Others had suggestjng the timer device ($180 +) for the parts. OUCH !!!!!

very simple to repair, three screws and disconnecting water supply pulling four wires then reverse steps and done, time spent less than 15 minutes.

My husband figured out what the problem was and I looked for the part. It was easy to find on your web-site, and the picture was spot on! I ordered it and had the part in 2 days. The repair took 15 minutes or less, and my washer is as good as new. Thank you PartSelect for being there when we needed. I will recommend this to everyone.

installation was difficult because the "universal" valve was a different size than the original. The solenoids were taller on the replacement valve, could not use the mounting bracket because the unit could not fit in the confined space. I also don't know why the water outlet nipple had to be smaller on the new assembly, requiring the use of a Rube Goldberg piece of tubing.

Basically the instructional video video for replacing the valve was great, but pretty obvious. Unplugged the machine. Shut off the water and disconnected the hoses (if the shutoffs are old you might need a pipe wrench or large pliers to get them completely shut off). I kept an old towel on the floor to sop up drippage. Removed the screw that holds the plate, then the two that hold the valve, all with 1/4 inch socket driver. Remove wires, loosen hose clamp on inlet hose but make sure it won't fall down into the machine. The video showed how to rotate the contacts so that they were aimed the same as on my old valve - pry up on the frame with a screwdriver and rotate until it clicks into the other slot. Just reverse the procedure with the new valve - orange and white wires to top (hot) valve, blue and white to cold. 15-20 minutes if all goes well. Note, the plate and valve attachment screws may not all be the same length even though they look the same. My problems were due to the very old washing machine. The clamp for the inlet hose was an old type that could not be loosened and had to be torn apart, luckily I had a modern 1/2 inch clamp on hand to replace it with. I had to bend the plate a little to get the attachment screw hole to line up with the hole in the washer. Also the connecting hose washers were too old and had to be replaced. I would suggest replacing these in any case and using a large pliers to get them snugly tightened.

Same technique as the PartSelect video, except the result leaked to the outside at the outlet port because the two halves of the mold that made it were slightly misaligned, and there were two steps, one on each side of the fitting. Filed the steps away, and used Evinrude gasket sealant to make sure it wouldn't leak, and it didn't.

My husband did the repair. Since he owned a laundry quite a few years ago, he knew what he was doing. After hooking everything back up, the cold water was coming in hot. When hooking up the hoses, he had hooked the cold into the top intake. After watching the online video, he realized that the plate that was to be installed over the hoses, on the back of the washer, clearly stated "H" on top and "C" on the bottom. So we switched the position of the hoses and everything ran perfectly after that. I would suggest to ANYONE doing this repair, to watch the online video first, before starting, because it is very, very helpful.

Had to take the back off to replace valve