Thermal Cut-Off Fuse Kit

Cost was $114.00 to replace all parts , It took longer to take apart & test everything than it did to do the repair ! I tested all parts twice , everything would test fine , I put it all back together and the dryer worked for 5 minutes , did that twice and decided to order all the parts an be done with it . Ordered the parts , that showed up at my door in 2 days !!! Turned OFF gas , took off vent hose , took back off with 8 screws , popped up top in the front , took 2 screws off the top in the back removing the brackets , Inside the front under the top removed 2 screws holding on the front , lifted the front and removed . All parts only have 1 or 2 screws holding them in place , removed 1 part at a time , removing and replacing 1 wire from old part to the new part so I did not mix up the wires , replace the part and go to the next part . It was pretty self explanatory replacing the parts , It took 20 minutes to take apart , replace the parts and put back together so my loving wife could do laundry again. You don't realize what a inconvenience it is to go without a dryer for 3 days when you have had one for 37 yrs ..... THANK YOU , 3 days can seem like forever when someone is not happy , but it was much much better than waiting 7 to 10 days for the wrong parts from somewhere else . You have the BEST parts website that I have EVER used !!! THANK YOU AGAIN , Donald

Advice. Don't try this repair without a multi-meter. I didn't heed the advice of the reps to whom I spoke over the phone because I was so sure it had to be one of the 3 thermostats that was the problem. I replaced all 3. No luck. So now I'm going to replace the pair of solenoids (coils) and the flame sensor. If that doesn't do it, I'm done. Time for a new dryer. Hint... the high limit thermostat is really 2 items. Buy the kit (both items) to be sure. Moral...I should have bought a multi-meter from the start, and saved myself $ and aggravation.

my 9 yr old gas whirlpool dryer was not producing sufficient heat... first checked exhaust was all clear... tested the thermal fuse with an ohmmeter..ok... so switched out the other three electronic sensors (all parts received nice and quick from this site in 1 day.. love your website guys..)still didn't work... frustrated, but refusing to call the "repair guy"...i scrolled through the installation instructions on your site untill i came to one way way down on the list that described a "little plastic cover on the lower left hand front panel that when popped off allows you to observe the igniter and flames in action"... so i did that... and found that the igniter worked fine (glows nicely)... but the gas would only come on the FIRST time after you started the dryer .. after that the igniter would cycle, but the gas would not come on... if you left the dryer off for 1/2 hr or so, then re started it.. same problemo!! so i perused your website for possible solutions and came to the gas valve solenoid coils (which i couldn't believe are easily replaceable....AND only $13 !!) BINGO !! problem solved.. works like new and still beat the cost of the repair guy coming out, (even though now i have a few good spare parts ,,,) couldn't be more satisfied !!

Replaced the High Limit Thermostat, fully disassembled dryer and cleaned lint from every inch, including the hose connection, wall box and hose. Everything looked perfect, but still would not dry. Finally, after days of agony, I decided to hook a leaf blower up to the dryer hose with a clamp, and pressurize the vent outlet. At first nothing happened, then lint began shooting out of the vent, and covered the ground. Still there was too much back pressure, so I took an electricians snake and began pushing it from the outside, into the house. after 13 feet, I hit something, and a ball of lint exited the vent, and the air flow doubled. Short story, this hidden problem has been plaguing us for over 5 years, and dryer now works perfectly. Didn't actually need the high limit thermostat after all.

(1) Unplugged power and turned gas valve off. (2) Scooted the dryer out from the wall as far as I could without disconnecting the gas line (the connections were too tight to break loose, anyway.). (3) At the back, disconnected exhaust hose at the dryer (spring clamp). (4) Using a 1/4" nut driver (1/4 " socket, 1/4" open or box end wrench, or adjustable wrench will do the job, too) removed ten screws holding the back panel in place and set the panel aside. (5) The Thermal fuse is just above the internal bias thermostat to the left of the dryer exhaust. The high limit thermostat is just to the right of them (all where the diagram show them to be). Starting with the thermal fuse, remove the wires and plug them onto the new thermal fuse in the same order. Unscrew the 1/4" screw, remove the thermal fuse an replace it with the new unit. (6) Repeat the process with the internal bias thermostat and the high limit thermostat. Replace the back panel, secure the exhaust hose and plug in power. I believe that PartSelect has a video of the process, Repair Clinic also has a You Tube video of the process. Watch the video it is easy and makes sense. Unfortunately, replacing the thermal fuse, internal bias thermostat, and high limit thermostat did not fix the problem -- still no heat and timer didn't advance. Went on-line looking for more information and determined that the likely cause was faulty coil on the burner assembly. Ordered the coil kit ( two coils). -- Another week at the laundromat, PartSelect does not have a video for replacing the coils and I found the user instructions hard to visualize. Repair Clinic has an easy to follow You Tube video of the process. (1) Unplug power -- everything else is done from the front. (2) Remove lint trap and remove the two Phillips screws securing the lint trap assembly to the top of the dryer. (3) Insert a stiff putty knife or screw driver under the front lip of the dryer top near the corners and lift the top up and back. (3) disconnect the door switch, near the top on the right hand side. I was unable to separate the connector and instead, removed the door switch (inside the door on the frame, two small Phillips screws secure it). (4) Using nut driver, remove two 3/8" screws holding the front panel in place (top front corners) and lift the front panel up and off. (5) Two coils are located bottom left hand side below the drum. Two Phillips screws hold the coils in place. To remove the holder, you'll need a stubby Phillips screw driver because there isn't much clearance below the drum. (6) Unplug the coils, lift them off replace new coils, plug them in. Secure the holder with two Phillips.screws. (7) Install the front panel. Two clips, one on either side near the bottom. Make sure the drum securely fits around the felt around the door on the front panel. (8) Re-fit the two 3/8" holding the front panel in place. (8) Hook up door switch. (9) drop top panel securely into place. (9) Plug in power. Replacing the coils fixed the problem. I tested the old coils with an ohm meter after removing them. Both tested good. Apparently one or both of them were breaking down under load, which is why the repairman couldn't isolate the problem. .

It is best to test for continuity before buying any parts. This will also save you money. Must check all parts because it could just be something small in the front of the dryer.

Replaced five parts and then finally went up on the roof to inspect the 3" exhaust pipe. The cap was clogged. It was the four-side-slot type for keeping out weather. I replaced it with a two 90 deg L's with output pointing downward. That's wide open 3" diameter and should not clog up again.

High limit switch is easy, just remove the back about 10 screws. Thermostat has four leads u clip and remove two screws. High limit was not bad! The coils were easy! They are accessed from the front, remove to filter screen screws on top, two door switch screws in front. Pry up top carefully with a flat blade screwdriver, let top section swing back. Remove two screws that hold front panel to sides located towards top, lever front up a little and out of the slots. Coils are located on end of burner assembly, remove two screws, remove coils and remove wire clips one coil has two wires the other has three so you won't mix them up. The hardest part is reinserting the front panel in the slot the rest is easy! Thoroughly vacuum insides and motor section. I removed the drum and belt to make it easier to access coils!