YWEE730H0DW0 Whirlpool - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Paul from Reedsburg, WI
- Parts Used:
- W11047722
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Burner Element did not work
Shut off breaker. Remove a total of 3 screws attach wires, replace screws, turn breaker on. Done!
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- Customer:
- Bruce from JACKSONVILLE, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10779716
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Extreme blowout of the oven bake heating element.
I've replaced oven heating elements before, but never in a 3 year old electric range oven. I watched the video again after the element arrived, and installation was easy with only 2 screw drivers. I was concerned about the repair when I saw the severity of damage to the old heating element and the underside of the bottom oven metal/ceramic plate, which was almost burned (a hole) through. After finishing the installation the oven showed it was preheating but no heat was being generated. A couple of phone calls later, a Whirlpool repair technician told me the main control panel needed replaced- $385 much higher cost due to chip shortage, inflation, and would take 2 months to arrive due to supply chain issues. So I don't know yet if the element is good or not. I am disappointed that the element blew in a relatively new appliance, but a total cost of $600 in a 3 year old oven is still probably better than $1200 for a new oven which is double the price I paid in 2018. Part failures never come at a good time but 2 months without an oven at Christmas & New Years is added frustration. When the heating element burned out there was a loud buzzing sound associated with the failure, which I've never experienced before and there were flames coming from underneath the bottom plate in the oven for an extended period of time. The repair for the heating element itself went smooth, but be advised you may get into more than just the element.
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- Customer:
- Kenneth from AUBURNDALE, FL
- Parts Used:
- W11171119
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Burned out heating element.
I watched the video you provide and it answered all my questions. You estimate repair at 10 minutes. My wife said I waz done in under 10 minutes Watch the video, it explained every step and all the little tricks to the snap connections.
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- Customer:
- Stan from FLAT ROCK, NC
- Parts Used:
- W11594027
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Oven lamp socket had broken center electric tab - failed.
1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.
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- Customer:
- mohaemd from pittsburgh, PA
- Parts Used:
- W11562931
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
the old gaskt was not linge dup well, the door was not closing well
pulled the old gasket, the new one fitted perfectly. No effort at all.
An instruction sheet would be a bonus. I wish you put instruction sheet in all parts OR a web link for video instructions. a web link would be great
An instruction sheet would be a bonus. I wish you put instruction sheet in all parts OR a web link for video instructions. a web link would be great
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- Customer:
- Yafa (and David) from Bothell, WA
- Parts Used:
- 8009
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Replacing the bulb in the freezer side
Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.
Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.
Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.
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- Customer:
- Sarah from Raleigh, NC
- Parts Used:
- W10833885
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven temperature was WAY off, sometimes 50 degrees.
Turned the breaker off. Removed the racks, pulled the oven out and removed the back. Disconnected and unscrewed the old sensor from the back, connected and screwed in the new one. Returned the racks and slid the oven back in.
The only remotely challenging part was disconnecting the old sensor. I had to figure out where to press with the flat screwdriver to get it to release.
I had found a good YouTube video and didn't use the app.
The only remotely challenging part was disconnecting the old sensor. I had to figure out where to press with the flat screwdriver to get it to release.
I had found a good YouTube video and didn't use the app.
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- Customer:
- Daniel from SARANAC LAKE, NY
- Parts Used:
- W10779716
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Electric oven was not heating up
I read the help section and it said that the element was likely to be the problem (84%) and the fuse had a 14% chance to be the problem so I purchased both. After watching the video I tried the element first and that's what it was so I returned the fuse, Thanks for the help and video.
The company said it would cost me $698 to repair. I had a 2 year warranty and that was 2 months out of date.
Again thanks for the help.
The company said it would cost me $698 to repair. I had a 2 year warranty and that was 2 months out of date.
Again thanks for the help.
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- Customer:
- Stan from STOW, OH
- Parts Used:
- W11047722
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Burned out large range top element
After identifying the part and taking delivery of it, I opened the breaker for the unit and then removed the range top by taking out 2 Phillips screws and lifting the part away from the hinges in the back. The element was attached with only 2 spring loaded clips which I then removed, noting the numbered position of each. I then photographed the wiring (x4) from several angles and removed each of them. I attached the clips to the new element and reconnected the wiring to the main heating element and the sensor per the photographs. The element was then re-positioned into its mounting slots, the range cover was reattached with the screws and the unit tested once power was restored.
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- Customer:
- Rodney from MC CONNELLSBG, PA
- Parts Used:
- W10779716
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Broken lower heating element
Shut beaker off
Unhooked wires on element back of stove
Removed all racks
Unscrewed lower plate cover
Removed element
Inserted new element
Rebooked wires to element
Reinstalled cover plate
Turned breaker back on
Turned range on and let heat up
Turned it off
Reinstalled racks
Unhooked wires on element back of stove
Removed all racks
Unscrewed lower plate cover
Removed element
Inserted new element
Rebooked wires to element
Reinstalled cover plate
Turned breaker back on
Turned range on and let heat up
Turned it off
Reinstalled racks
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- Customer:
- Cynthia from CANDLER, NC
- Parts Used:
- W10789865
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Bottom oven was replaced
Took out 2 screws took old one out an put new one in it even came with a heating element to replace which was sooo very nice! I had very good service from ordering to receiving! Everyone was very nice I will deal with this company again!
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- Customer:
- Scott from Troy, IL
- Parts Used:
- W11562931
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
No problems encountered
It was easy to remove the old oven door gasket. Just a little tug was all that was needed. Installing new gasket was just as simple as tucking in the gasket end into the hole at the bottom and pushing the clip in the corresponding hole.
TIP: roll the end of the gasket and feed into the hole then use a small tipped screw driver or the point of a needle nose plier to finish installing the ends into the hole at the bottom of the door opening.
TIP: roll the end of the gasket and feed into the hole then use a small tipped screw driver or the point of a needle nose plier to finish installing the ends into the hole at the bottom of the door opening.
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- Customer:
- Joseph K from PAHRUMP, NV
- Parts Used:
- WP3196548
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
The oven light shorted out causing the safety thermostat to blow.
Replaced the safety thermostat and disconnected the oven light.
Works great again...without the light
Works great again...without the light
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- Customer:
- Eric from HUMBOLDT, SD
- Parts Used:
- W11047668
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dual burner right front not heating properly
Purchased new switch shut off breaker unscrew the back plate remove front knob and two screws that hold it on remove the two electrical clips from old switch then reinstall in reverse order. Also watched the youtube video before hand, great help!
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- Customer:
- Carol from BELLINGHAM, WA
- Parts Used:
- W11594027
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Replacing oven light and socket
The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.
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