YMEDB725BW0 Whirlpool - Instructions

Replaced

After unplugging the dryer, I removed the bottom panel in front. Remove the the filter inside the dryer and remove the filter housing below. There you can see the thermal fuse on the air duct, its white with two blue wires. You can check it with a ohmmeter after removing the wires. If its open its bad. Its held in place with two sheet metal screws. After replacing the thermal fuse the dryer worked fine. However I would suggest cleaning the air duct and the outside discharge opening. Hope this helps.

I disconnect the power, then the vent pipe. I removed the back panel of the dryer to access the pulley and removed the belt. Replaced the back and put everything back together.

I tried to follow directions followed by others on this site after diagnosing the problem via suggestions provided by users. I have a Whirlpool Duet dryer from 2002. We've had problems since moving about 3 years ago. I removed the front panel (lower) by unscrewing the two bottom screws (1/4" sheet metal screws). Then I took out the lint screen and the metal tube/contraption immediately beneath to get access to the area where thermistor is located. See the drawing/chart to help you locate this. It's really easier than it seems. Make sure you have the chart/drawing for your model - it makes difference! The thermistor came out pretty easily with a nutdriver that has a swivel offset shaft. Ask your hardware store tool dept. about that one. Put everything back in reverse order of course and test either with/without the front panel re-attached. In my case it fixed at least part of the problem. I was able to get clothes almost dry with most settings but I have yet to install the moisture sensor to see if that helps in addition to the internal-bias thermistor. I am the kind of person that does one thing at a time so at least I now know the thermistor was bad. Good luck and hang in there with your own repair. It's a lot cheaper even if it takes you longer to do than a pro.

the job would have gone faster if the right parts had been sent in the first place. I would have never paid for two day shipping. In the repair, I removed the rear panel, clipped the plastic triangle holding the bearing, installed the new bearing and new clip.

once the back is off remove belt from tentioner and remove v clip. smooth shaft with wd-40 and scotch brite , then install new idler replace v clip
and your done !!!

Just like video except there were two screws in back to take control head off. Be prepared to have shop vacation ready. Clean dryer duct too. Have bandaids ready. Plastic triangles are not easy to take off, video makes it look easy.

Took the old filter out and inserted the new one- works great!!

Pulled out the old and slid in the new filter

Very bad design to keep door shut but very simple to fix. Just screw bad strike out and screw new one end. Whirlpool should have gave extra when you buy this type dryer.

My dryer starter squeaking in December 09 and the repairman told me that it would cost between $200-$500. I did not let him fix it as this machine is only 3 years old. When the part finally broke in April 10, I was ready to junk this and just buy a used dryer. My husband went on line and quickly figured out the part he would need to do the repairs. It cost under $20.00. Now my dryer is fixed and running and there are no squeaks. Thank you

Did an Ohm test on the old Thermal Fuse found it to be bad. Replaced it with a new and the dryer is back to working great. Your suggestions saved approximatley $150.

Thanks for the help.

I replaced the thermistor earlier, but the code was still flashing. I noticed the heater terminals were charred and pretty well covered in carbon. So, I replaced the heater, the thermostat and thermal fuse and replaced the 3/8" spade terminals on the heater wires. (These are hard to find - most electrical spades terminals are .250. Also, I crimped and soldered these for a connection with the lowest resistance possible). After all that, the code still flashed! I let the explatives fly, calmed down, and ran the control board test. (This is done by pressing "more time" "less time" "more time" "less time" in succession.) The control board was passing all the tests, but the thermistor test, and the only thing is in this circuit is the thermistor, the wires, the connector to the control board, and some circuit on the control board that involves a few resistors and the "brain" chip. So, I checked the terminals at the thermistor, the wires up to the control board and the connector at the board. The control board connector was fairly dust encrusted, so I unplugged it, cleaned the control board terminals and sucked away all the lint and dust. Finally, I carefully removed earch crimp terminal from the Molex connector (the white female connector) and cleaned and bent them to yield a better connection to the terminals on the control board. I put it all back together, and thus far it is working fine.

Like another reviewer's repair story, I decided to take the door apart. It was too difficult, at least for me, to get the faulty catch out without damaging either the the door or my hands. This is why I give it an "easy" rather than "very easy" rating and put the total repair time at a half hour or better. I also decided I wanted a second person to help - not with getting the door apart or putting it back together, but because a second pair arms was very helpful in rehanging the door well. We removed the door (four screws), marking which side of the hinge needed to be flush with the actual dryer when rehanging. Then we took the door apart, which comprises another sixteen screws (four on each edge). We used an electric drill but I'm sure it could be done manually. We used needle nosed pliers to get the faulty latch out of that side of the door, then replaced it with the "back up" from the other side. Then we put the door back together and carefully rehung it. Done. We did decide that, in future, all kids (we have three boys) slamming the door would be severely beaten. Pushing the door until it's against the dryer, then PUSHING (as opposed to slamming) the latch ONTO the catch pin on the dryer is obviously what was intended. However, I've learned not to count on my boys being particularly conscientious, so I'd ordered four replacement latches to keep on hand. This machine was delivered in April 2009 and I replaced the latch in April 2011. Based on this and our laundering habits, I'm sure the others will be used long before the dryer calls it quits.

Removed the broken catch with a pair of needle nose pliars and replaced it the same way. Took about 10 minutes. Saved a Service Call