SFF1001CSA0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Took off front bottom panel reached in removed part that was very dusty. Put in new part. Cleaned out lint inside dryer. Works like a charm.

Took the back dryer cover off and removed the lint cover all from the back of the dryer then replaces the Thermistor (held with 2 screws).

Followed instuctions on video accept our appliance was the Duet HT model so we had a glass window to deal with. Just a few more screws to keep track of but otherwise a very easy repair.

flipped THE BREAKER (very important!). Removed the cover on the bottom of the dryer (2 screws), made easier because dryer is stacked on top of washer. Removed the heater box (3 screws). Thermistor located on top of the blower housing (right side). removed old thermistor (2 screws) and unplugged the wires. Plugged the wires into new thermistor, installed the thermistor, replaced the heater box, then tested the dryer. It seemed to work fine. Replaced the cover. It has worked fine ever since.

diognostic suggested thermal fuse or thermistor. Thermistor tested low resistance (<2K olms). Replaced thermistor and dryer heat returned.

Removed the front lower skirt with two 1/4"hex screws. Vaccumed all inner parts exposed. Removed three 1/4" screws holding the blower housing.Memoved the bias thermister again two 1/4" screws. Make sure all inner exaust pipes and rear chimney gas or electric are clean and lint free. Re assemble and test the unit. Install the skirt and make sure the dryer is level Jack, Pa.

little more than vedio showed has a see thru door had to tke door off machine then was easy replacement and re install

just the way the video showd me

I watched the video provided first to get an idea of how it should go. The dryer I have had a different kind of door, so those instructions didn't apply. You probably don't want to publish the way I ended up fixing it, but it did work eventually. Saved me over $500!! Thank you!

Watched steve on the video on changing the thermistor a couple times, it appeared to be straight forward replacement. Unplugged the dryer. . . Went through the front, my lent filter slides in and out from the lid so I had too remove two extra screws to detach it. After opening up the front it became very apparent my thermistor was not located in the same location as the one in the video. Dryer needed a cleaning (lint/dust) so I released the idler pully tension on the drum belt and went ahead and removed the drum/belt and shop vac/ blew with compressed air and shop vac once again. Gave my dryer a much needed cleaning since I had it apart. Put everything back together in about 20 mins. Pulled the dryer away from the wall and removed rear cover and presto there it was right next to the dryer air outlet. Replaced thermistor and replaced back cover, inspected out flex hose on dryer outlet, I clean it out (flex) yearly to prevent problems. Reattached flex on both ends, re-positioned dryer, plugged back in, and works great! Definitely fixed my problem. . . Replacing the drum by myself was a bit difficult. Still do able (there's a video on that also. . )

Six(6) screws were removed to separate the front and rear sections of the dryer door to get access to the rear of the catch.Pliers were used to maneuver the catch through the opening in the cabinet from the rear. The new catch was easily snapped into the catch opening from the front of the door.

Exactlyt how your video showed me. I was a bit skeptical, but it was the easiest repair ever.Thank you

Slipped screwdriver on top and bottom of catch and pullef out. Pressed new catch in plact. Job finished.

Our make/model was not on the online instruction, but it was similar. Ours had a glass (plastic)front window in the door. To remove the top catch you had to take out the top four screws that hold the door together (philips head screws) allowing you to pull back the gray plastic strip to access the top latch, then replace it like in the online directions using a needle nose pliers. The bottom catch, once the two remaining the screws were out gives you access to the bottom catch. Remove it with the pliers and snap the new ones into place. You can completely take out the window when you replace the bottom latch if you want.

When I got the door catch, I held it in a pair of pliers and pushed it right into place. The door would still pop open. After awhile, I realized that the door was bent, probably by a small child climbing up on it. I had to loosen some of the screws that held the door on in order to relieve the tension in the door so that it would stay closed. As long as it continues to work, I won't worry about replacing the door. It's in a rental house anyway.