7MWTW1935DW0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit

Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.

When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.

Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.

Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.

Removed two screws to remove guard. Two screws to remove another part with wires. Pulley nut was already missing. Component was twist locking tabs.

Removed 5 screws on back, released 2 retention clips on front, lifted top of washer to expose lock assembly, removed 2 screws holding lock assembly in place followed electrical line back to plug behind control panel plugged new lock in, and reassembled in reverse order. Done!

Watch video on the site and the insulation will be easy and take about 30 min.

Removed the old and replaced with new

My daughter is the handy one in the family. She followed Steve's video installation steps and in an hour i was washing clothes.

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

I laid the washer on its front side to access underneath. I removed the original washer pulley system and actuator very easily to replace them with the new parts. The new/updated model actuator for my machine was a little bit challenging to maneuver around existing parts to make work, but I eventually got it installed. The plug was angled very differently than the original plug on the actuator, but it was a tight fit. There was no issue installing the washer pulley system. Hooked washer back up to power, water lines, drain line, and the washer has been working perfectly since.

Believe me, I was hesitent, but after I did it, it was easy peasy, so forget the lack of confidence and dive right in.

I turned off and disconnected the water lines (have a bucket ready) and tipped the washer on its back. I followed along with the provided video that was super helpful. Disconnecting, moving the washer, and reconnecting everything took longer than the repair. Very satisfied with this repair!

Once we put the washer on it's side noticed lots of oil on the floor and in the belt cover area. Replaced belt anyway but issue is the leaking transmission. Starting warranty process since Maytag carries a 10-year part warranty and machine is 6.5 years old. Wish me luck !!!

There are a number of videos showing how to do this repair:
>Disconnect power and water - cold, hot and drain.
>Put washer on its side on a stand (low platform) to get to the bottom.
Better than than just laying front of washer on floor.
>Used a drop light to help see bottom.
>Removed Pulley Cover using nut driver - has 2 screws with nut
heads.
>Removed and replaced the Shift Actuator (part provided) using a
Phillips screw driver - 2 green screws. Unplugged electrical
connector which should be reconnected before new unit is screwed
back down.
Replacement part is not the same as the original. From what I read.
this part has been a problem with these washers.
>Put Pulley Cover back on.
>Reset washer upright.
>Reconnected water and power.
>Ran "CALIBRATION". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "rinse"
light on and pushed "start" button.
>Ran "AUTOMATIC TEST". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "spin"
light on and pushed "staet" button. Washer agitated in first cycle
- "sensing" and in "wash".
.
Washer has been working as it should and I a very happy with the results.

I must say that PartSelect Identified the bad part as the Shift Actuator right off from the symptoms I provided.

Followed instructions.

I removed the cover for the softener dispenser on the top of the agitator. Then reached in and removed the cover of the nut and washer which was very sticky and sealed with an o-ring. This took a bit of pressure. Then used a socket wrench with an extension to loosen the bolt and took the whole agitator out of the machine. Then I set the agitator on the floor and with a fine 12 inch long screw driver released the catches while turning and pulling the agitatior with my other hand and holding the lower agitatior on the floor with my feet. I then turned the upper part over and removed the cogs and holding mechanism.
Then I reversed the process after replacing the cogs with the new part. 25 minutes total.

Disconnect electrical plug from the wall, disconnect drain hoses and tip washer forward remove belt hosing basket and then remove the electrical plug that contains seven wires connected to actuator then remove the two small screws.
Then reverse the operation to stall the new part. Very easy.