WFW70HEBW2 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Took sometime to figure out the problem. A little difficult to replace part partly due to the drain pump with filter’s location in the washer. Mine is on its lower right rear. It’s reachable and yet difficult. Good luck!

The top and back were already removed from front load washer. There is no lower front access panel on my washer. I followed a YouTube video that showed a similar washer model with a drain pump that looked exactly the same. This video had the washer up on a work bench for easier access. My washer is in a very tight space and the best I could do was wiggle it out and set the rear corners on bed risers. There are 4 screws that take a nut driver to loosen. My nut driver was too long to fit. My sockets were too fat to fit. I took my socket handle and put on a smaller socket, then added a nut driver from a power drill. This made it short enough to fit. One screw was totally by braille. The pump came off easily. I lubed the gasket part of the new pump with liquid soap. It was difficult for me to push the new pump up, so I used a ball hammer to wedge it up bit by bit. I was able to twist the ball hammer head enough to keep the pump up while I put the screws back. The screws finished snugging everything up. Washer works great now! This was done by a grandmother and obviously not an appliance technician.

The repair was easier than the troubleshooting. Figured out the hot or cold water supply valve was failing which allowed water to enter the tub via the dispenser leaving several inches of water on clean clothes or the empty cylinder.

To replace the valve you need to first shut off the hot/cold water supply and remove the hoses. (I took this time to replace the several year old hot & cold water supply rubber hoses with metal braided hoses. I also took a wire brush to the threads of the copper spigot removing any built up corrosion or gunk.) Next you need to remove the 3 1/4" sheet metal screws which secure the top panel of the washing machine. I always take a few pictures of the old part, hose, and connectors just to make sure I replace them in the same locations.

After removing the cover you can use clamp removal/installation pliers, vice grips, or a similar tool to remove the clamps for the hot and cold water to the detergent/bleach/softener dispenser.

Then, remove the electrical connectors on the valve and if you want label them with their locations on the left or right facing the rear of the washer if you want but they are pretty much self-explanatory. They have little retention clips which need to be disengaged in order to be removed from the valve assembly.

Next, remove the hoses and then the three sheet metal screws attaching the valve to back panel of the washer. Install the new valve assembly and then attach the hot and cold water hoses using the clamps to the detergent/bleach/softener dispensers. Then, attach the electrical connectors to the new valve and listen for the clip to engage and gently pull back on the connector (not the wires) to ensure they are properly attached to the valve.

Reconnect the hot & cold water supply hoses from the building pipes and turn-on both spigots or ball valves. Check for leaks and then plug in the washing machine and run a load to test the normal operation. I would leave one piece of dry clothing in the tub after running a load and leave it for a few hours to ensure the new valve is working as advertised.

If there are no further leaks, you are done! Way to go!

The end of the strike had broken off, and the pictures did not clearly show there was a cross-member at the end of the strike. That crossmember is what broke on the old strike. The strike has only two screws, both requiring a Torx bit (#20, I believe). Unscrew both screws to remove the strike plate. It was a little difficult to get out - it has a curved top to lock into the top slot, but the bottom slides slightly down into another slot. There isn't a lot of room in the opening to slide the strike up and down and get it out. Putting the new strike on is easier - ensure the curved end fits into the slot at the top and slide it up just a bit, push the bottom of the strike plate in, then let it drop right into place, and reinsert the screws. The only problem I had was the strike's holes for the screws are slotted horizontally, so the strike can be positioned across almost 3/8". The latch would not engage the strike the first time, so I had to loosen the screws and reposition the strike a bit. This time it latched, but the fit wasn't quite right, so I adjusted it again to get it where I needed it.

remove power to machine
disco the water lines

removed the back of the washer then removed the top.

remove leaking water valve by removing the hoses then removing the valve assembly.

replaced with new,checked for leaks

reassembled washer

Watched this video on the website and went to work. Went very easy and smooth with removing the door. A pair of pliers works fine for outer ring. Kind of challenging by yourself, but I got it on in less than 5 minutes. Pliers in one hand and flat head screwdriver in the other to work the ring on. Much cheaper than paying someone to do it. 2 out of 10 for difficulty.

!!!! Unplug washer and let sit for about 15 minutes before performing any repairs!!!! Remove back cover with 1/4 inch nut driver. Locate drain filter under drum and slowly remove cap to drain(it will help to catch the water that drains out with either a shallow bucket or a wet/dry shop vac). Disconnect single electrical connector on pump. Locate and remove four mounting screws with 1/4 inch socket and ratchet. Remove pump and remove as much debris as possible. Install new pump with light amount of dish soap or other lubricant on o-ring seal. Tighten mounting screws. Connect electrical connector. Reinstall back cover.

Desarme la puerta y coloque la nueva con mucha facilidad, nunca reparé un electrodoméstico antes de este, seguí el diagrama que encontré en el sitio para elegir la pieza que se rompio

Since I have All Whirlpool appliances in the home, the only one not a Whirlpool was a counter top dishwasher that looks exactly like it could be a Whirlpool and so not to be the odd unit out, I labeled it with with a Whirlpool logo nameplate on the face of the door. Now everything matches perfectly and all in the same exact color white too.

Just measured and marked where the plate was to be located, cleaned that part of the surface, peeled the backing and carefully placed the logo name plate in place and pressed it on. Voila. Done and looks original as well. Call me the big, deep fakearooski.

I am still waiting for the correct part to arrive, I was sent a part but it was the wrong part, the wrong part number and it was nothing that would work on a washing machine. I think someone else ended up with my part and I got theirs.

Took door off with a Phillips screwdriver went to hardware store with door so he could match up the 6pt screwdrivers that were needed.
No more then 1 hour to do.

Replaced the whole valve.

Replace front legs. Very easy fix.

1 Pull the machine away from the wall.
2 Unplug the machine.
3 Remove three screws in the back on the machine that secure the top
4 Remove the top
5 Remove the water lines that are connected to dispenser
6 Remove the Detergent tray
7 Remove one 1/4-inch screw that secures dispenser to the washer brace
8 Remove two torques tip screws from the front of the dispenser
9 Remove the outer ring securing the washer seal
10 Disconnect the rub hose connected at the front of the dispenser at the bottom
11 Reinstall the New Dispenser in reverse order
12 Test for leaks

This was a super easy repair that completely fixed my issue. My washer was showing the same F8E1 error code on most loads, and would not run special cycles, only the normal wash cycle.

With the help of Google, I diagnosed the issue as a water fill error and understood that the inlet valve wasn't working. I bought this part, watched an instructional YouTube video, and replaced the broken part in about 25 minutes, start to finish.

To do the repair, I disconnected power and shut off water to the machine, then removed the back panel of the washer. Next, I unhooked the wires and water tubes connected to the old inlet valve and pulled it out of the machine. I snapped the wires into the correct ports on the new valve, attached the water hoses, slid it into position, and secured it with the set pins, then reattached the back panel on the washer. I plugged the machine back on and opened the water line. Everything works now, including special cycles.