1CWTW4740YQ2 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Followed video on your web site, and used that for ways to fix, good directions. If I was more organized it prob would of taken about an hour or less

Very simple repair with the kit. Old rods came out easily using vise grips locked on to rods about 10-12 inches down and pulling up. Had doubts if they were bad since everything looked good but drum bounced back several times when I shoved it down to test it earlier. New rods went in just as easy and replaced in less than 30 min. Hardest part was that I had very cramped laundry room so had to move and disconnect hoses etc. to move into larger space for repair and then move back to reconnect. Parts came quickly within about 3 days and now purrs like a kitten!

Replaced the suspension rods

Exactly like the video from the website

The video posted on this site will walk you right through the repair. Great service. Thanks!

Replaced hinge switch. Still no spin cycle. Noticed hinge bearing cracked & if hinge forced into switch, spin activated. Ordered new hinge bearings.Spin cycle still didn't engage. On further examination, observed that hinge was bent. Straightened hinge & worked like a charm. Didn't really need new switch or bearings. NOTE : Avoid having washer door bang shut.Took longer than expected, but each procedure was simple.

After changing the cogs, inner-auger clutch assembly, retaining bolt and drive belt, the washer will still not agitate. Any suggestions??

Replacing the part was fairly easy. However it did not resolve the problem. The spin cycle did not activate,leaving my washer full of water. We ordered another Maytag Washer. Hopefully this one doesn't break down for a long time.

Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.

Having been out of the business for quite a few years I thought that I was dealing with a direct drive machine. Thinking that it was the motor coupler. I removed the control panel and attempted to pull the cabinet froward. Not so, it had a solid cabinet, so I tilted the machine against the wall and looked under the washer finding the driven Transmission pulley loose on the shaft. The splines on the pulley were pretty well worn but I tightened the nut and it worked okay. But I ordered a pulley and replaced after it's arrival. The motor capacitor also broke it's mount off so I had to rehang it with zip ties and repaired the wires to the Capacitor, (Which BTW had about 22 gauge wire). I found it hard to believe that they would use such small wire.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Figuring out how to take the lid off was the hard part. Took out the old and replaced with new and put lid back on and rehooked up.

At first I had to position the washer so I could get access.. after having it positioned, I figured it out. Getting the clamp fastened, I was done.

First I removed the two screws on the back of the control console( at the bottom, phillips head). Flip that up and out of the way. Then you could remove the 2 big clips that hold the back of the washer to the cabinet. Disconnect the lid switch and flip the cabinet forward and out of the way. Remember when putting the cabinet back on, line up the slots on the bottom of the cabinet with the toungues on the base. Next pull off the fabric softner dispenser, then reach down in there and pull out the bottom seal of that to expose the bolt that hold the agitator on. Remove that bolt and pull off the agitator. Remove that little clip and the plastic piece above the spanner nut. I didn't have a spanner wrench so I hade to use a small extension from my socket set and a hammer to loosen it. Once that is removed then you could remove the ring around the top of the tub, and pull the tub off. Now you could see the block and probably all the metal shavings it's been creating. If the two ears that stick up and fit in to the block are worn, you should replace that too. I think you hve to replace that from the bottom. Now just put it all back together. Print out the exploded diagram from the web sit so you have it right there. Good luck!

I had to remove 3 screws from the back of the washer to be able to lift the top. Then remove 3 screws under the lid which held the switch in, unplug the old part and put the new one in. It was quite sinple. The most difficult part was figuring out you have to slide the top of the washer forward a bit to be able to tilt it up.