WFW8410SW01 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

The removal of the bellows was easy and quick. The instructional video was really good. Only one problem with video. The step of removing the console from washer leaves out that there is a center screw in the center of console. I almost broke the console. It took took a long time in getting bellows on interior area due to tight finger space. Wire gasket fairly easy. The outer gasket after getting door and latch on. Whew! That was a bear. Video looked easy. I finally had to get help to get it on. The reason was that every time I thought I had it, the bellows would roll off will the wire gasket. A screw type as the inner area would make it so much easier. Shipping. Kudos to your company. I was expecting that I would be without washer for a week. I ordered on a Friday and it was here early Monday morning. That was amazing. By the way I did this except the outer wire gasket by myself. I finally had to get "husband" to help with that. Thanks Parts Select! If the need arises that I need another part. You will be my go to company.

Followed the most helpful video.with some system differences. Had quite a bit of fitment challenge with the inner bellow sealing process...finally used dish soap to help 'stretch' the thing on.Works fine now thanks.

Perfect part...saved me hundreds on labor. Thanks!

Removed top panel. Removed rear panel. Replaced belt. Fairly easy only issue was getting the actual belt pulled enough to wrap around the pulley.

First, I looked at a replace bellows video on U-Tube that saved a lot of time in knowing how to proceed. You really need nutdrivers as sockets won't fit on the screws. Fitting the bellows on the large drum is not as simple as it appeared in the movie. It took several attempts to get it in place, but it was simple to place the clamp after it was there. Other than that, just follow the steps in the movie for your model

First I removed the bottom panels then the door then the top then the front control panel, I had to go to different web site to get directions on how to do this, after you remove screws you have to unplug U18 from electrical control box. Then remove bumper, find wire around front of bumper and remove using needle nose pliers, then remove back of bumper from tub using phillips head screwdriver. Then with help we replaced with bumper. and put the machine back together. My complaint is there were NO instructions in the box with the bumper and the ones on your web page are not detailed enough. I had to search the web "how to remove maytag door bumper" before I found how to remove it.

Got parts in mail. The new parts seem to be better than originals. Remove bottom front access panel to reach shocks. Revove nuts and bolts from bottom mount. Then remove any existing pieces from top mount. Twist in new shocks at top (this part was why I put the bit difficult. Sme were hard to twist.),then pull down and put bolt back in bottom mount and tighten back up. re-install front cover and clean up.

Unplugged washer first! Removed front bottom panel by removing three screws, unscrewed the Drain Plug assembly by turning drain plug counter clockwise with a bucket to catch excess water from washer. Used pliers to remove spring clamps from washer agitator drain hose and then removed the spring clamp from the hose going to drain. Checked hoses for obstructions, then Slide Drain Pump assembly up to the right to remove. Then installed new Drain Pump assembly by sliding pump into slot to the left. Connected the agitator and drain hose to new Drain Pump and fastened with spring clamps. Plugged in AC line cord and turned washer on and started a quick wash cycle to check for leaks and to see if the water drained from washer properly. The water drained from washer and error code did not appear. The error code F21 reappeared during the second wash cycle. After closer inspection with a flash light, I found a large piece of cloth caught between the washer agitator and washer tub covering the drain by shining the flash light up towards the Agitator tub. This was solved by removing the Drain Pump assembly and all of the drain hoses again. Then removing the the large hose from the agitator tub and then removing the large piece of cloth from agitator tub. After reassembly, the washer worked like new!

A previous person had broken the actuator switch connection so I replace it and got rid of the error code. But water poured out and I eventually took off the whole dispenser assembly and found a sock had stopped the big hose up where it enters the outer wash drum.

I purchased the downloadable Maytag Maintenance Manual (PDF format) and followed some of the directions and pointers from this web site. All in all, it was a pretty simple process. 1) Take the top off - 3 metal screws, 2) take the control console and detergent dispenser out - 1 T-20 Torx screw and multiple plastic clips and 1 wire connector, 3) take the lower panel off - 3 metal screws, 4)take bellows retaining ring off -- spring retainer used a needle nose pliers, 4) take off door latching mechanism - 2 T-20 Torx screws and multiple clips + 3 wire connectors, 5) take front panel and door off - 4 metal screws, 6) remove bellows retaining clamp with phillips screw driver, 7) remove old bellows. Reverse the process to install new bellows. On installation, make sure that bellows drain holes are at the bottom of the door. Also, hardest and most time consuming part was installation of the metal retaining ring (spring retainer) fought with it for about a half hour before I finally got it on. BTW all metal screws for my machine were 1/4" head the remainder were all Torx T-20. Good luck!

Searched internet for diagnosis. Ran diagnostic test using the diagnostic manual from whirlpool. The error code was F29. Replaced door latch but problem was not solved. Then order the Motor Control Unit. Removed old control unit through the top by removing the top washer cover and numbering harness positions with painter's tape. Install the new Control Unit and ran diagnostic procedure. The problem was solved. The washer is working fine.

After unplugging the washer, the unit was pulled forward and tipped backwards, I placed a 2x4 under the washer to serve as a brace. I removed the existing bolts holding the old pump in place, removed the spring hose clams, unplugged the pump and removed the damaged part. inserted the new drain pump, re-inserted the bolts and tightened them, replaced the spring clamps with "regular" hose clamps supplied with the replacement part, plugged in the power supply, removed the brace, pushed back the unit and plugged it into the outlet. From start to finish - about 20 minutes. Was running wash about a half hour after I started.

other than needing a new type of screw driver (not philips or flat head, but rather a starfish looking thing), the replacement was simple. took 5 minutes (after finding the correct driver)

Thank You so much for the other stories folks wrote on here! We were getting an F21 code on a regular basis. After finding a necklace and about $2.50 in change in the filter tray we found the problem. Over time I thought the washer was getting louder but it was so gradule that we really did not realize it.I had read other posts on here and ordered a new pump. After taking out 3 screws and 2 clamps the pump came right out and went in just as easy. Less than 15 minutes and we were back in business with a wisper quiet washing machine,Thanks Again everyone, Mike D.

I drained the water out of the pump area. Then took off all clamps and holding brackets. Next I pulled off the quick connect power plug. Then I put new pump in the way I took old pump out. The hardest part was unscrewing the bracket from underneath the washer. Cloth washer working fine.