3RLBR8543JQ3 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Repair was easy enough by just unlocking the tab and twisting the switch out from under the control panel. For me though, this did not fix my overflowing issue. After more research I found the inlet valve needed to be cleaned out.
I respect that electrical parts are non-returnable as I am in the auto parts business.

Removed the clips. Pulled out the old pump. After trying to get the new pump on the shaft of the motor, I realized that some corrosion had built up on the motor shaft. I got a small tack hammer and very lightly tapped the shaft to remove the corrosion. The pump then slid on the shaft with no problem. Replaced clips. Job complete.
The corrosion on the shaft cracked the plastic piece where the shaft connects and this is what caused the problem in the first place.

While my friends were visiting, they broke the knob off my washer. Now I am no good at repairs of any type, so my initial reaction was to get a new washer. Instead I went on the website and found a new knob. The website made it easy to match model numbers and get the exact knob. I got it in the mail ASAP and I just pushed it on. This may not sound like an impressive repair story but trust me, it was a lot for me. I saved myself $400.

I repaired my Kenmore washing machine replacing the clutch, Motor coupling and cogs. All of the parts came quickly and with good instructions. Best of all there were links to youtube repair walkthroughs. With out these step by step instructions this project would have taken much longer. Now the washer is like new! WATCH THE YOUTUBE PAUSE DO THE STEP AND REPEAT

Removed capscrew in end of agitator shaft took cover off machine-[ unscrewed two screws holding down control panel, hinged back, pryed retaining clips out, rocked back machine cover.]
Removed motor mounting clips and pump hoses, swinging motor and pump out of the way. Removed 3 capscrews holding transmission, pulled transmission towards me removing agitator shaft, disassembled clutch assembly - removing one cirlip then another, installed new clucth parts in same order

Unplug power from wall.
Disconnected water lines
Tip Unit on it's side. (Recommend turning so motor is to the top side)
Disconnect Electrical connector and Hoses from the pump and motor.
Disconnect metal straps used to retain the motor to the transmission. (screwdriver to pry)
Remove old coupling pieces from transmission/motor(used a long screw driver, rock back and forth)
used air compressor to clean up electric motor
replace new coupling on motor and transmisison (may need hammer to tap into place)
set rubber bushing on transmission side (transmission shaft should be facing up at this point)
replace electric motor into place, making sure to line up bushing and motor mounts.
replace metal strap connectors between transmission / motor (this can be tricky, as the one in the back is hard to get at.)
replace electrical connectors and hoses
connect washing machine power and water and test

First I removed the softener bin by pulling it up and off, then I removed the plastic seal by pulling it up and out, then I removed the 1/2 inch bolt with a ratchet and extension, then I removed the upper and lower agitator assembly from the machine and seperated the two by putting my feet on the lower agitator to hold it to the floor and pulling the upper agitator fast and firmly.
Sitting on top of the lower agitator I found the dog ear assembly. I pulled the dog ear assembly off and removed the yellow cap and existing dog ears.
Assembly was reverse.

flip machine back remove two spring clamps and hoses remove two spring clamps and water pump save $500.+on a new washer

This is a relatively new washer and failed early. My previous whirlpool washer lasted 20 years without any repairs. 1. First inquired about the spin problem in partselect. Machine will not sping unless manualy forced then it will take off but weak. 2. Partselect suggested a clutch problem. Ordered the part that came fast. When I tried removing the shaft hub with a hammer and chisel it will not get loose so I opted ordering the special wrench to loosen the tub hub. 3. I put the machine on its back and loosened the pump retaining clips. Do not remove the hoses from the pump. Move the pump away from the motor shaft. Remove the motor electrical connector and set aside. 4. Remove the three bolts holding the gearbox-motor assemply and pull it out of the tub. 5. Put the assembly on a towelwith shaft up and remove the separator washer from the old clutch that is sitting on the gearbox. Then remove the c-retaining clip from the shaft. 6. Pry out the wire retaining clip from the clutch and pull the old clutch out of the shaft. 7. The clutch kit I ordered came with a plastic brake to clutch cam so I replaced it too, just remove the retainig clip from the brake that is at the bottom of the tub and replaced the part. 8. Installed the new clutch and the retaining clips in reverse order. Replace all parts that came with the kit. The new clutch spring was already in place. 9. Put the assembly back into the tub and re-install all the other items in the same order. It spins good now! 10. While replacing parts, methodically clean all the lint from the motor and from under the machine. The gearbox showed signs of leaking oil so its a question of cost. I left it there until it fails then I'll buy a new machine.

removed top controls panel (not obvious),then released old switch by rotating 90 degrees (after disconnecting wires and pressure sensor tubing), then reinstalled new switch (new switch has only 3 positions, not 5 as old switch had) and reinstalled everything else.

A 'gotcha' is the plastic 'strap' on the back that anchors switch compartment to the back steel sheet. It is EASY to dislodge that plastic strap from the bakc panel and it drops down inside the panel--maybe to the floor, maybe not--requiring difficult retrieval. Suggest TAPING the plastic strap in place on the back steel sheet so it will not fall out.

Replaced AGITATOR DIRECTIONAL COGS (4) looking instruction video . Replaced CLUTCH LINING KIT following video of this site "WASHER REPAIR-REPLACING THE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY". Replaced SEAL, GEARCASE COVER and NEUTRAL DRIVE ASSEMBLY as follow: 1)CLUTCH Assembly and motor removed, took the GEARCASE on a bench vise to hold in place and the long shaft up side. You can get help from other person to hold secured in place instead a vise.2)Following a youtube video I tested gearcase with a reversible drill using DIRECT DRIVE MOTOR COUPLING PART next To transmission side instead of electrical motor. Drill turning counter clockwise drive the long shaft oscillating (it agitate via agitator cogs). Drill turning clockwise run the exterior sleeved part around shaft (upper side of metal gear inside gearcase and fixed on top to clutch to get washer spin). My experience was didn't rotate so we had to take apart gearcase cover.3)Unscrewed and removed gearcase cover. Cover was sticked by old seal gasket so a screwdriver helped me to remove it.4)Cleaned joint removing old gasket.5)Repeating drill test I realized big nylon gear did'nt rotated and removed uppercut clip with pin pliers with care for not lose the pin. Removed the next washer, the plastic gear and found a plastic part with a tooth broken. This part is with NEUTRAL DRAIN ASSEMBLY so replaced assembly following part instructions. I recommend take pictures in order to reassemling and use ALLEN WRENCH 5/32'' inches.6)Fill up to half of gearcase with 16 ounces (about 1/2 of case) of gear oil supplied by PARTSELECT or automotive gear oil SAE 85w90 or SAE 90.7)Replaced SEAL, GEARCASE COVER. HARD TO REMOVED AND REPLACE! Take care not break!. I had to use a piece of metal tube and a vise.8)Applied automotrice black seal gasket silicone around the cover joint and case.9) Replaced the cover and reversal instruction video.THANKS to this site I get excellent service and Enjoyed with my toy.

Just bought my washer and dryer from Home Depot, but bought an Admiral model that didn't come with a fabric softener dispenser. Ordered the part from PartSelect and after rocket fast shipping installed it in seconds. The installation required no tools as the dispenser just snapped right in. My clothes are now soft and free of static cling. Thank you PartSelect!!

unplugged unit,removed liquid cup,removed nut holding agitator,removed agitator installed new one installed nut tightened and tested operation very easy job!

While taking apart my washing machine to clean the plastic basket I discovered the 3 main seals down the agitator were completely disintegrated and water was leaking onto the motor and onto the floor. The seals are a tight fit but slide into place easily with lubrication. When putting everything back together a bit of lubrication will be necessary as well. The leak is gone and my nearly 30 year old washer is working as well as the day it came off of the assembly line.

I followed the online instructions to remove the shell and attempted to remove the drum, but not having the special wrench to remove the special nut, tried using a screwdriver and hammer, which failed to loosen the nut. I then started examining the the undercarriage and saw that I could replace the springs without removing the tub and did that. In the course of replacing the springs I discovered I could also access the wear pads by lifting the drum off of the undercarriage and placing a block to hold it above the pads. I was able to pop the old pads out by tapping underneath them with a hammer. The new pads were then installed and the weight of the drum popped them in. It was necessary to lift the drum assembly three times for each of the three pads.