QCAM2730YQ0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Removed the outside body of washer. Used 1/2 plywood between drum and wear pads to make space to pry out pads with screwdriver. Replaced suspension springs and tub spring (use waterproof grease on end of springs. Put washer back together and tested. Problem solved washer not walking all over floor anymore. Thanks for you help.

I removed the cabinet and agitator, layed the machine on it's back, removed the pump, motor and gearcase. I found a way to prop the gearcase up so it rested level, removed the cover, drained the old oil. I removed all internal parts, disassembled them and cleaned them. I reassembled the gearcase using the new uetral drain assembly, and replaced the oil. I made sure the brake assembly was pushed into position and then put the gearcase, motor and pump back in. I sttod the machine up, put the cabinet back on and tested the machine. It still did not spin, so it wasn't the coupler, clutch or nuetral drain assembly.

Yes, I agree that the actual replacement of the pump was an easy task on this whirlpool washing machine, however, unlike other posters, I had no access through the bottom of the machine. My machine has a solid pan on the bottom. It has a large hole in the center - I think to access the transmission, but no access where the pump is.
So, I had to dismantle the entire enclosure, first the back (about 6 screws, a couple of electrical connections, etc.), then remove the rest of the enclosure to reveal the guts of the machine. I also had to disconnect a small vacuum tube attached to the tub, and remove the control console on top along with the back. It was pretty straight forward, took about two hours to dismantle. Then, the actual removal of the pump was as easy as others have described here - two spring clips and a hose clamp and I had it in my hand. I ordered the new part, which came very quickly - 2 days I think. Then I took another two hours to re-assemble the machine. It works - yeah!
Symptoms - water leak on the floor, it was actually intermittent for a time, so I procrastinated. Then when I actually did the work, I could see the rust trail and follow it to the leaky pump. The pump was actually leaking through the center, where the drive shaft from the motor goes. There is probably a seal between the impeller and the central drive slot that gives out after a while.
New pump in - machine back together - no leaks.

Disconneted hoses,unplugged.removed drain hose.Turned unit on its side.Unsnapped retainers,tryed to to pull off with just my hands,that didn't work.Used a pry bar to pop off.The end of the shaft was rusted out.I took a dremel with wire brush and cleaned up the end.Then the pump njust slid on.I took it off again and applied some anti-sieze on the end of shaft.then put pump back on.Snapped the retainers and put hoses back on.It was easy.When I first looked up washer parts,I found this other site and the price ws doulbe.Then I found you guys ,1/2 the cost and it was here in 2 days.Thank You Parts select.

Removed cabinet found tub spring had worn thru rear frame, spring was also almost worn thru. Checked suspension springs very very worn at mounting points.
Ordered needed parts. All in Stock. First bracket came the next day took 5 days to get the rest 1 part at a time.
Forgot to order suspension spring clips, order them next day shipping came the next day .
Just because parts are in stock doesn't mean you will receive in a timely fashion if you need parts better order next day freight.
Videos, parts diagrams and instruction are great, regular freight is not good

removed water lines from back of washer. tilted washer to get access to the pump/ removed 2 hoses at pump and removed to snap clips attaching the pump. easiest repair i ever did. washer works fine now.

We unscrewed the two screws at the back of the control panel. Holding the control panel on both ends
we pulled it toward the front of the machine, slightly and gently lifting it at the same time, removing it from the metal surround. Holding the control panel up off of the surround we rocked the surround forward and lifted it off the washing machine frame.
We could see where the leak was coming from. We took the hose clamps from the two ports, then
using a pair of pliers pulled the two clips that are holding the pump onto the shaft protruding from the
electric motor. We matched up the part on the web sight. Ordered the part then when it came in we just reversed the order putting the machine back together. The hardest and most time consuming
thing about this repair was the clean up of the washing machine. (Dirt and soap residue does
build up on the inside of the wash tubs.)

Repair went well and relatively easy, but did not fix the problem.
Suspect timer switch was the culprit. Nothing was clogged or plugged
up. Water pump and impeller were free and clear with no damage
or leaks.

Tipped the washer onto it's side, used pliers to loosen clamps on old hose. Removed outer drain hose from white plastic hose adapter on back of washer. Removed white hose adapter (snaps out of place) and old hose. Fed new hose through opening for white adapter, then snapped new adapter into place on back of machine. Put the new hose in place and replaced clamps. Sat washer back upright. No more leaking! It was easy and didn't take more than 15-20 minutes.

Removed the 4 screws and nuts to get the control panel, off. Took-off brass clips that hold the back on. Removed 2 bottom nuts and plastic clips on back of washer. Took the back partially off, and removed the water inlet valve and replaced it. Reversed the procedure to re-assemble.The valve may not have been deffective, since after inspection, the hot water inlet screen was clogged with gunk.

I used pliers to loosen the hose clamps and the small springs that hold the water pump to the water pump motor. The old pump then came off by simply pulling it off. The new was was the reverse. Everything worked well.
The biggest problem had been finding that the water pump was leaking. I first tried to fix it with epoxy but it is apparentlly made of nylon and the expoxy didn't stick well.
I am still annoyed that Whirlpool makes a water pum that leads so soon. The Whirlpool site showed my model number as non existent. Later, after purchasing the right one from this third party site, Whirlpool sent email that they found the model number and gave me a much higher replacement price for the pump.

Just kept removing rear panel fasteners until the panel could be separated from the washer sides and top. Removed the existing valve from the rear panel by removing one screw, and lifting the valve assembly slightly so that it could be pushed back through the rear panel holes. Removed the existing valve's wiring and outlet hose and transferred them to the new valve. When the four wires and one hose had been transferred from old to new, valve, inserted the new valve with connected wiring and hose back into the rear panel holes, and aligned the valve's screw hole with the hole in the rear panel. Replaced the screw which secures the valve assembly to the rear panel, and re-attached the rear panel.

Shut off water and unplugged electricity. Removed hoses, have some thing to catch water in the hoses.
Remove the screws that hold the back cover on the controls panel, and the cover for the electrical cord, you do not have to do anything else with the cord. Remove the 2 screws that are holding the top of the washer to the back panel and slide the top forward an inch or two until it comes loose in the front. Hold onto lt glass top door a lift it up until you can see the silver metal spring clips that hold the controls panel/ cover in place, with a screw driver press the clips back and lift them up a little bit and this will allow you to move the controls panel forward a half inch and the tabs will release and you can tip the cover forward and this exposes the water valve, there are 5 electrical connections on this valve were I to do this again I might order the wiring loom for the valve at the same time that way you would not have to use the small sharp pick to work the connectors loose and reinstall them on the new valve. Replacing the valve was easy as there are only two screws holding it on. Pull up on the valve and it is off.
Make sure all three of the gaskets /prong seals are lined up before you press down on the valve to install it, install the two screws before you plug in the electrical, it makes it easier to tighten the screws. Plug the connectors back onto the valve, 4 on the top of valve on under it and reassemble the washer.

Well, after resolving Part Select (PS) shipping issues (PS sent me two refrigerator glass shelves instead of a Tub Spring); And as it turns out they sent me the wrong part for the suspension pads, which I have returned for credit. It takes 3-4 weeks to obtain your credit BTW.

Well after removing the cabinet, agitator, wash basket, plastic tub, all 5 springs, & pump suction line, I was able to access the Tub wear pads and suspension pads. As it turns out the suspension pads looked good.
Thank God, as PS had sent wrong parts. I replaced the wear pads, the 5 springs, and reversed the disassembly process. Took about 6 hours.
But washer works fine now, still vibrates, but does not walk across floor any more.

Old machine and vibrations are still there but weaker. Seemed to turn counter clock wise. Put a 4x4 board behind in order to stop the twisting, and keep hoses safe from vibrating and causing wear. Stays fairly stable now.