3LWTW4740YQ0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained.
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!

W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit

Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.

When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.

Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.

Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.

Followed detailed instructions which were supplied with the parts. It was easy and my machine is working great with no issues. Also I just didn’t get the main drive pulley, all new parts came for the bottom end, great service and excellent parts.

Per your directions. Note that part has been updated from original. Looks like an improvement, adds tab to grab rod, but changes installation.

Watch video on the site and the insulation will be easy and take about 30 min.

Removed two screws to remove guard. Two screws to remove another part with wires. Pulley nut was already missing. Component was twist locking tabs.

First need to remove cap on Agitator. Inside there is a washplate bolt. Remove bolt. Old Agitator will slide up. Pull washer off stem. Clean grooved stem very well. Use some sort of lubricant on stem. Slide new Agitator on to stem. Part will be very snug as metal and plastic do not mix well. (Lubricant needed) Use board to lay flat on top. Gently tap with mallet until fully seated. Install new bolt. Run test wash. (Helps clean wash tub from any foreign substances.)

the repair went well but I still haven't received a refund for the order was was sent incorrectly. Order #22085769 order date 2/3/23

Watched video and followed instructions. Removed rods from top cups, laid washer on its side and pulled them out. Put new rods thru, stood washer up and hooked them in. Was pretty easy, tube heavy but I'm 52 and I did it myself.
My only problem is there's no springs anywhere attaching rods to tub and I cannot find any info on 1. IF I need them 2. What kind I need. I sent email to partselect last week inquiring and still waiting to hear.

1st watched the video, turned off the water supply, unplugged the elecrtcal cord, removed the rear top panel , screws with the nut driver , then slid the top forward about 1 inch & then lifted upwards to removed the lid assy, after taping the lid assy down so it wouldn't flip open. Then once lifted up, at the very back are 2 slots, which you can the set the top onto, then use the 2 s-hooks with a chain to support the lid assy from falling backwards and attach to the base assy.
Then you can move the tub assy away from where you need to work.in this case was replacing the upper plastic suspension rod supports, then push upwards the socket , drop in the new one, pull of on the rod assy, and hook it into the ball and drop bach into the suppprt , was able to do all 4 in no time. Then unkook and reattach all, screws, plug back in, turn on the water. And we were good to go.
All For less than $20.

I simply followed Steve's instructions on video. Very easy repair. Washer works great, no jumping or vibrating.

Just follow the video! Very easy.

I used a jack to lift the tub and unhooked the rods and replaced them. Works great.

Replaced each hose. Did discover that either hose can be used for hot or cold water lines. No longer required to label hot and cold replacement hoses.

The info. was really helpful