2DWTW5500XW1 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- D from DISTRICT HTS, MD
- Parts Used:
- W11454372
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Grinding noise from the gearcase.
Actually, I "Youtubed" it. I entered the info from the washer and found what was similar. What would help is when you tilt the washer (on back or front) so you can look at what you're going to work on to match (or closely match) what is on Youtube. It is SO easy, it's unbelievable.
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- Customer:
- TERRY from WAUKEE, IA
- Parts Used:
- W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
When the washer goes into a spin cycle, I would hear an intermittent loud clattering noise. I think the clutch teeth above (the cup part that is spring loaded) and the belted pulley's teeth below are not fully seating on each other during the spin cycle.
W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit
Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.
When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.
Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.
Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.
Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.
When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.
Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.
Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.
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- Customer:
- Marco from LIPAN, TX
- Parts Used:
- W11168740
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Water kept running
Safety First unplug unit, close water valves, remove upper panel with a 1/4 inch socket. Remove two screws holding the valve unplug 2 wires and replaced valve with the new one
And very impressed with the fast quick delivery of the part thank you very much
And very impressed with the fast quick delivery of the part thank you very much
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- Customer:
- Craig from CRARY, ND
- Parts Used:
- W10528947
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Very wet clothes after load was complete
Remove the center cover with a screwdriver then loosen the 7/16 bolt with an impact driver socket ccw to remove completely biggest issue is removing bottom cover tried pick tools only thing that was succesful was some dawn dishsoap on the center bolt area to loosen enough to lift up the cover replace the hub part that had worn spline grooves remember to use blue loctite on the 7/16 bolt before re-installing cw to tighten bolt
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- Customer:
- Johnny from NORTH JUDSON, IN
- Parts Used:
- W10528947
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
the splines were worn out on the hub assembley
screw driver and a rachet and socket took it off and put the new one on . no problem follow the direction that comes with it .
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- Customer:
- Marylou from SOUTH ELGIN, IL
- Parts Used:
- W11168740
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
No cold water being put in the washer
Turn off the water. Disconnect both hoses. Remove the plug from the outlet. Remove five screws with a nut driver from the back panel. Remove the back panel. Remove two screws from the cold water valve. Pulled out the old valve. Install new valve with the two screws. Reinstall back panel with the five screws. Reset codes to the washer. Tested out washer. Works fine.
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- Customer:
- Charles from SEALY, TX
- Parts Used:
- W10404050
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Washer gets stuck on Rinse and not complete the cycle.
Found common diagnosis and instructions on internet. It is not difficult to replace.
Unfortunately, this new latch assembly did not fix the problem.
Unfortunately, this new latch assembly did not fix the problem.
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- Customer:
- Robert from STAMFORD, CT
- Parts Used:
- W11168740
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Cold water valve sensor no good
Took off washer body 6 screws
Took off old sensor installed new
Very simple and smooth
Took off old sensor installed new
Very simple and smooth
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- Customer:
- JERRY W. from CARROLLTON, GA
- Parts Used:
- W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
making noise when starting spin cycle
Watch video on the site and the insulation will be easy and take about 30 min.
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- Customer:
- Norman from MOBILE, AL
- Parts Used:
- W10440729
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
rod came loose from one upper suspension bushing
Per your directions. Note that part has been updated from original. Looks like an improvement, adds tab to grab rod, but changes installation.
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- Customer:
- Bernard from ARIZONA CITY, AZ
- Parts Used:
- W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Gear stripped on main spline
Followed detailed instructions which were supplied with the parts. It was easy and my machine is working great with no issues. Also I just didn’t get the main drive pulley, all new parts came for the bottom end, great service and excellent parts.
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- Customer:
- Bruce from GLOBE, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WP8533953
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Stripped screws on a hub drive replacement
Getting to the actual hub is a bit difficult as it involves removing the accetuator and takes some time and patience, but when I tried to replace with a new hub, I found that the screws were stripped, so PartSelect walked me through the ordering process and helped me choose the exact size screws that I needed. Parts came quickly...I already had the hub waiting to be secured and the screws tightened easily. (We had tried using a similar size, but you REALLY need the whirlpool screws that go in there) No more spinning problems, and the machine is not jumping around anymore. Works just like before. This particular machine has to have this part replaced at least twice a year (luckily it's cheap),but saves us from having to buy a whole new machine. My son also told me that since I replace the part so often, best to replace the screws every other time as well.
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- Customer:
- Jim from ACUSHNET, MA
- Parts Used:
- W11385424
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
No agitation
Pop center cover off wash plate. Remove bolt. Lift off washplate. Slide retainer off with screwdriver and hammer. Slide new retainer on. Replace washplate.
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- Customer:
- Kim from MOUNT UNION, PA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10006355
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
washer would not spin on wash cycle
My daughter is the handy one in the family. She followed Steve's video installation steps and in an hour i was washing clothes.
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- Customer:
- Maxwell from RINGWOOD, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WPW10006355
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Washer -Maytag Centennial- would NOT agitate. It would run through all cycles as indicated by the lights and even spin at the end, but never agitated. It also did not appeared to go into "sensing" mode at the start. Took a long time to move from "sensing" light to "wash" light. Did not hear or see a
There are a number of videos showing how to do this repair:
>Disconnect power and water - cold, hot and drain.
>Put washer on its side on a stand (low platform) to get to the bottom.
Better than than just laying front of washer on floor.
>Used a drop light to help see bottom.
>Removed Pulley Cover using nut driver - has 2 screws with nut
heads.
>Removed and replaced the Shift Actuator (part provided) using a
Phillips screw driver - 2 green screws. Unplugged electrical
connector which should be reconnected before new unit is screwed
back down.
Replacement part is not the same as the original. From what I read.
this part has been a problem with these washers.
>Put Pulley Cover back on.
>Reset washer upright.
>Reconnected water and power.
>Ran "CALIBRATION". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "rinse"
light on and pushed "start" button.
>Ran "AUTOMATIC TEST". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "spin"
light on and pushed "staet" button. Washer agitated in first cycle
- "sensing" and in "wash".
.
Washer has been working as it should and I a very happy with the results.
I must say that PartSelect Identified the bad part as the Shift Actuator right off from the symptoms I provided.
>Disconnect power and water - cold, hot and drain.
>Put washer on its side on a stand (low platform) to get to the bottom.
Better than than just laying front of washer on floor.
>Used a drop light to help see bottom.
>Removed Pulley Cover using nut driver - has 2 screws with nut
heads.
>Removed and replaced the Shift Actuator (part provided) using a
Phillips screw driver - 2 green screws. Unplugged electrical
connector which should be reconnected before new unit is screwed
back down.
Replacement part is not the same as the original. From what I read.
this part has been a problem with these washers.
>Put Pulley Cover back on.
>Reset washer upright.
>Reconnected water and power.
>Ran "CALIBRATION". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "rinse"
light on and pushed "start" button.
>Ran "AUTOMATIC TEST". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "spin"
light on and pushed "staet" button. Washer agitated in first cycle
- "sensing" and in "wash".
.
Washer has been working as it should and I a very happy with the results.
I must say that PartSelect Identified the bad part as the Shift Actuator right off from the symptoms I provided.
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