WFW9400SB02 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Took the outer ring off with the help of pliers just be careful. Push the bellow into the washer. We cleaned the area good at this time. Put the new bellow in being sure to keep the wrinkles out and securing it in place with the other clamp. Make sure to keep it lined up and wrinkle free to prevent leaks and possible tears later on. You will need the screwdriver to tighten the screws in the inner clamp.

My son pulled the washer out and found the parts that was leaking. He ordered the parts from your company. they arrived the next day and he re-pared the leaks and all is well.thank you

Very limited access to the bellow clamp. Found it easier to first remove washer front panels (8 screws total), providing ready access to R&R the bellow. 40 minutes tops.

A real novice at dyi. Found what the error code meant in the manual and google searched it online. Found Youtube video on repair and was successful in getting the washer to work a few times before the error code returned. Decided to replace the inlet valve and on your site took the advice of a previous user and also changed the flowmeter. Could not have been a better experience. Easy to find the correct parts for my model and got great tips...plus your shipping was excellent. Thanks!

I removed the top 3 screws on the rear, removed soap dispenser, removed screw in front corner at soap dispenser,pry off control panel with flat head screwdriver lay on top, removed spring around bellows at door opening, remove 4screws holding door assembly, disconnect 3 molded plugs serving door lock, you will need to hold door while you loosen bellows clamp.Reverse process note: soap dispenser tube can be removed to clean without any tools. It is some much easier when you remove the front door assembly.T-20 torx screwdriver, 9/32 socket Theirs a you tube video also.ghw

Removed the 3 bolts attaching top of washer. Disconnected hoses from the inlet value and flow meter, also very careful to remove the wire connections. Removed Water inlet valve (this requires the star screw driver). Did find it best to connect the inlet valve and flow meter before reattaching the inlet valve, as that sits under the lip, it is just a bit of a tight fit to get the hose reconnected between the two. Then reconnected the flow meter hose to the dispensing box, reattached the hoses and ran a cycle no f20 issues, as a note, an f20 has to do with a restriction in the flow of water not with pressure so not sure if it was the inlet valve or flow meter clogging up or both.

Made a bad call after googling "bearing squeal for HE 4t" and replaced the bearings and seal on the drum.... Turns out my squeal was coming from the drain pump, didn't realize until after a major tear down and replacement of bearings and seal. Managed to break one of the electrical connectors on the heating element on that repair as well... Compared to the bearing replacement the drain pump was super simple. Lots of good instructions above, the only thing I would add is that if you put a little pressure on the hose clamps and spin them to an easier position to see and get pliers on, they will be much less of a headache. Vice grips were the best tool for getting them released and re-installed. The heating element was pretty easy, loosen the center nut to the end of the threads but don't remove. Use a flat screwdrive to gently pry the unit out. Use a little dish washing soap to lube up the rubber plug on the new one before installing and it slides right in.

Washed three loads and it was ok but then it stopped draining again. I don't know what to do.

I replaced the pump thinking this was the most likely cause of the problem. The pump is easy to access and get to. The reviews were helpful. The hose clamps were difficult to get back in place especially the one from the washer drain to the pump (need wide-jaw pliers). Now that I have seen the system work, the pump was not bad and the water from the drain still smells bad. I just ordered the filter 8181683, which looks like the only other thing that would prevent the water from draining completely. The drain hose is not blocked.

Looked at how the old drain pump was installed, then removed it and installed the new one. It was a fairly simple fix. The only feedback were that the parts picture was a little confusing becuase the picture didnt really look like the actual part, so we were unsure if we were ordering the correct part.

Disconnected power. Turned of the water supply. Removed/disconnected the water lines from the washer. Removed the top by removing three screws. Disconnected the wires/connectors from the valve assembly. Disconnected the water line from the valve assembly to the dispenser assembly. Removed the screw holding the valve assembly on. Installed the valve assembly and reversed the above procedure.

Replaced pump assembly

I followed the instructions and it was surprisingly simple. Glad I didn't call the "handy-man" since it was easy to do it myself as a handy-woman!

I watched video first and it help me a lot to do the repair myself of my washer machine and i save about $ 1,500 dollar. Thanks

Disconected washer, disconected water lines, Removed top cover. Removed screw holding valve, disconnected 2 connectors for valve put everything back together