WFW9300VU03 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

This is a straightforward replacement. Move the washer to an area where you can work on it. Unplug the washer from the wall. Turn off the water and disconnect the hot and cold water hoses at the washer. Remove the back of the washer. Slide out the top of the washer. Remove the small hose from the valve to the remainder of the washer. Disconnect the two control wires to the valve. Replace the valve. Replace the small water hose. Reconnect the wires. Replace the top and back of the washer. Connect the water back up. Plug in and try a test load. The water should flow fast enough to reach the back of the machine.

Removed door from washer, remove hinge from door. Then slip in hinge and tighten hinge to door. Then attach door. It works and the most important thing the wife is happy

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

Super simple repair, videos on this site were spot-on.

1. Turn off water, unplug washer, and disconnect the hoses from the back of the washer.
2. Remove the three T20 torx screws holding on the top of the washer, slide the top back about an inch, and lift off.
3. Remove the T20 torx screw holding the water valve to the back plate of the washer.
4. Using pliers, release the hose clamp on the outlet hose of the valve and slide it down about an inch.
5. Remove the old valve and attach the new one to the outlet hose. Reinstall the hose clamp.
6. Replace the screw that holds the valve to the back plate and reinstall the top of the washer. Reconnect hoses the the washer, turn on water, and plug back the washer back in.
7. Odds are, your water flow has been low for a while and the first cycle is going to flush a good bit of mildew and other gunk into the washer drum. Run a cleaning cycle with about 1/3 cup bleach through the washer prior to using.

Should be good to go!

I removed the back panel to access the top end of the hose then I removed the lower front panel to access the lower end of the hose that attaches to the pump. The hose is secured with spring clamps and they were removed with pliers, the panels are secured with screws.

I replaced the hose and reinstalled the panels and I was done.

We read your you tube instruction and followed the video

The plastic tabs were too large to fit into the washer's slotted hole in the washer cage. I initially bought this part from a PartSelect competitor and it was made wrong as well. Whirlpool themselves showed this part on back order so the faulty part originated in a Whirlpool order to a vendor. The reason for this reply is that PartSelect resolved this bad part issue within 2 hours and 1 phone call. The competitor has not resolved anything yet in 3 weeks and 5 emails with image proof.

Remove top and front
Care taken to unplug door wiring
should have taken notes or photos where srews go and order
remove old bellows large hose clamp and sping tensioned clip
clean surfaces
install new bellows on tub only
put all panels and door together
Connecting wiring to door and strain relief takes 2 people
connect bellows to door with spring clip

Followed instructions as shown on repair video at site.

Followed internet instructions

We removed the front cover to the washer. Then we removed the drain pump piece that was broken. We put the new drain pump in and secured the screws. We also inspected all the hoses to make sure the hose clamps were intact. Then leaving the front cover off the machine to inspect for leaks we turned on the wash cycle. No more problems.

firts remover the three bolts that held the front panel on, and removed that. Then removed the screw that held the pump in place. then removed the hoses from the pump. After that put hoses on new pump and srewed back in place . the put front back on.

The end of the strike had broken off, and the pictures did not clearly show there was a cross-member at the end of the strike. That crossmember is what broke on the old strike. The strike has only two screws, both requiring a Torx bit (#20, I believe). Unscrew both screws to remove the strike plate. It was a little difficult to get out - it has a curved top to lock into the top slot, but the bottom slides slightly down into another slot. There isn't a lot of room in the opening to slide the strike up and down and get it out. Putting the new strike on is easier - ensure the curved end fits into the slot at the top and slide it up just a bit, push the bottom of the strike plate in, then let it drop right into place, and reinsert the screws. The only problem I had was the strike's holes for the screws are slotted horizontally, so the strike can be positioned across almost 3/8". The latch would not engage the strike the first time, so I had to loosen the screws and reposition the strike a bit. This time it latched, but the fit wasn't quite right, so I adjusted it again to get it where I needed it.

Had the old pump out - 1 screw and two hose clamp to unhook and an electrical wire to pull out - couldnt been any easier - when new one came took 5 mins to install - did a load to make sure pump worked before put it all back together

Removed screws around door couple around hinge