WFW8410SW03 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

I removed the three bottom screws and removed the plate. Removed the control panel, removed the star screw on the left side and pulled off the front panel of the machine. Loosen the bellow clamp with a phillips head and pull off the front spring clamp on the bellow. Pull off the old bellow and re installed the new one. Installed and tightened the bellow clamp and spring loaded clamp on the front of the bellow and re installed the panel, and control panel. Checked for leaks.

First thing, unpluged the washer. I removed the lower front acces panal. I then propped the washer up on 2 pint sized paint cans to reach the pump mounting screws. I disconnected the wire bundle going to the pump. Then removed the inlet and outlet hoses from the pump. Then I removed the 2 mounting screws on bottom and slide the pump to the left and removed. I then pump the new pump on the same way I took the old one off, but in reverse. Easy and fast the worst part was the price of the pump.

Had my appliance man do it. It was the first one he had ever done in 20 years of working on Whirlpool. It was quick. The parts I received from you were cheaper than his supplier. Needless to say that made me very happy!

Just follow the repair video and you are good to go. Very easy my 16yr old did it.

First, I watched the video again just to make sure I had a firm grasp of the task ahead. I gathered up the tools and proceeded to begin. First obstacle: getting the washer tilted back enough to put the blocks under the front feet. The washer was sitting inside a square water pan with a drain connected directly under the middle of the washer. Therefore, the water pan did not move and I could only get the washer moved out far enough to 'barely' put the blocks underneath. Second obstacle: a clump of hair had gathered at the bottom portion of the door unnoticed and caused a slow leak from the bellows. This leak dripped down and rusted out two of the three screws. I had to use a socket set to get the screws out. Third obstacle: getting the pump removed from the bottom of the washer. With the drip, the pump had stuck to the bottom of the washer. Trying hard not to get cut on the sheet metal bottom, I pushed and pushed and pulled until finally the pump let loose. From that point on..smooth sailing just like the video. Washer fixed!

Put towel down to catch excess water, opened drain screen, used pliers to remove squeeze clamps on both hoses, removed front hold-down torx-head bolt and slid pump assembly out. Compared new part to old and found 2 differences 1:no hold-down location in front for bolt,2: the rubber padded feet are not the same. I was able to remove the two screws on the right side and use just the rubber pad for support while sliding the left side in the slot and is was plenty stable and works just fine. I guess the Whirlpool Duet model is a bit different on mounting but everything else fit quite well, the washer is working perfectly again.

Perfect part...saved me hundreds on labor. Thanks!

A previous person had broken the actuator switch connection so I replace it and got rid of the error code. But water poured out and I eventually took off the whole dispenser assembly and found a sock had stopped the big hose up where it enters the outer wash drum.

Removed top panel. Removed rear panel. Replaced belt. Fairly easy only issue was getting the actual belt pulled enough to wrap around the pulley.

I purchased the downloadable Maytag Maintenance Manual (PDF format) and followed some of the directions and pointers from this web site. All in all, it was a pretty simple process. 1) Take the top off - 3 metal screws, 2) take the control console and detergent dispenser out - 1 T-20 Torx screw and multiple plastic clips and 1 wire connector, 3) take the lower panel off - 3 metal screws, 4)take bellows retaining ring off -- spring retainer used a needle nose pliers, 4) take off door latching mechanism - 2 T-20 Torx screws and multiple clips + 3 wire connectors, 5) take front panel and door off - 4 metal screws, 6) remove bellows retaining clamp with phillips screw driver, 7) remove old bellows. Reverse the process to install new bellows. On installation, make sure that bellows drain holes are at the bottom of the door. Also, hardest and most time consuming part was installation of the metal retaining ring (spring retainer) fought with it for about a half hour before I finally got it on. BTW all metal screws for my machine were 1/4" head the remainder were all Torx T-20. Good luck!

It took a very long time to attempt to diagnose the problem with this type of washer, finally was able to get the diagnostic to run and it said it was the Motor Control Unit (MCU). After ordering the part which was easy, it was not the reasoning for the problem and I still cannot get this machine fixed. Returned the part with ease, just waiting for the refund to go through.

Searched internet for diagnosis. Ran diagnostic test using the diagnostic manual from whirlpool. The error code was F29. Replaced door latch but problem was not solved. Then order the Motor Control Unit. Removed old control unit through the top by removing the top washer cover and numbering harness positions with painter's tape. Install the new Control Unit and ran diagnostic procedure. The problem was solved. The washer is working fine.

First, I looked at a replace bellows video on U-Tube that saved a lot of time in knowing how to proceed. You really need nutdrivers as sockets won't fit on the screws. Fitting the bellows on the large drum is not as simple as it appeared in the movie. It took several attempts to get it in place, but it was simple to place the clamp after it was there. Other than that, just follow the steps in the movie for your model

First I removed the bottom panels then the door then the top then the front control panel, I had to go to different web site to get directions on how to do this, after you remove screws you have to unplug U18 from electrical control box. Then remove bumper, find wire around front of bumper and remove using needle nose pliers, then remove back of bumper from tub using phillips head screwdriver. Then with help we replaced with bumper. and put the machine back together. My complaint is there were NO instructions in the box with the bumper and the ones on your web page are not detailed enough. I had to search the web "how to remove maytag door bumper" before I found how to remove it.

very easy to take off the bad belt and easy to put the other on. skill level would be a low anyone with a socet rench and a screw driver can replace the drive belt. shipping was extremly fast. 3-6 day shipping was there in 2 days.