WFW95HEXL2 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Take off top of washer and the flowmeter is in the back lefthand corner on the top of the washer. Replaced the water level switch on the top righthand of the machine also. Got about 150. 00 Total invested w/service call from local tech. F-20 has not came back yet. I hoped it fixed it washer is only 3 yrs. Old. -Gd

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

So I was unable to get my model number so I took the hinge off the washer and was able to order the part. Before removing the hinge I used a marker and marked the hinge location on the washer. Once I got the part I removed the T15 screws on the inside part of the door and separate the pieces. I was able to remove the white tube for all 4 of the pins and put them on the hinge. I installed the hinge an then i put the front door pieces back together again while it was laying on the floor. I though I put it in wrong but I was correct. Once i had the hinge on the door and the door reassembled, I was able to attached the hinge to the washer. The hinge comes off the washer by pushing up on it and to reinstall you push down. I tighten the 4 T25 screws using the marks on the washer and the door is alligned correctly. I am able to close the washer door with one finger instead of my whole hand.

Two people to screwdrivers, stretching the spring out and around and that’s the last part to go on

Desarme la puerta y coloque la nueva con mucha facilidad, nunca reparé un electrodoméstico antes de este, seguí el diagrama que encontré en el sitio para elegir la pieza que se rompio

Followed internet instructions

I followed your repair video explicitly, simple fix. However, one should
be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from
the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the
rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" into the narrow slot which displaces the
wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe
the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they
connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this
repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!

Factory hose clamps were awkward to maneuver. I used automotive radiator hose clamps instead. They worked great.

I did follow step by step your YouTube video. I’m a woman. There was nothing heavy in the process. You have to be careful that’s it. Thank you for the instructions. I fixed it with the YouTube tutorial you provided. Really nice from you people.

Removed top cover. Unplugged switch and replaced it with the new one.

Replace front legs. Very easy fix.

replaced actuator switch. It did not fix the problem. Replaced actuator arm, and fixed. Needed the switch because gears were stripped. Needed the arm because it seems over time, the arm straightened, thereby increasing its length so that the rotation of the switch bound up during its cycle.

Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.

Took door off with a Phillips screwdriver went to hardware store with door so he could match up the 6pt screwdrivers that were needed.
No more then 1 hour to do.

I took the machine top off, then removed the control panel, removed old wire ring clamps. Removed door, removed inner clamp, water inlet tube, and bellows. Lubed up the new bellows with food grade silicone. Replaced the water inlet, inner clamp, door, outer spring clamp, reassembled the washer body and control panel and then ate a pizza.