WTW6200VW1 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Just pulled the old water pump off and replaced with new one and was good to go. Thank you so much for sharing the problems and how to fix. Dean

The washer would enter the spin cycle, but after starting to spin, would quit, and beep repeatedly. The fault code shown was DL. The manual cited DL as Door Lock malfunction. A check of the door lock switch suggested an internal problem. Sears offered the part at a far greater price, and shipping was several times more than PartSelect.com. PartSelect was chosen, and the part ordered on-line. Within two days the part arrived. Installation was simply a matter of lifting the top of the unit on which the door is supported. IT is done by inserting a narrow screwdriver into the separation, and pressing on the two metal springs holding the top in place. The old part was simple to remove by extracting two phillips head screws and removing the cable from the cable mounts underneath the top surface then threading the cable and plug back through the cable hole. Before that could be completed, the rear cover of the control panel was also removed, and after the plug of the defective switch was removed, the new cable was connected, and threaded back through in the reverse of the removal of the old switch, the phillips head screws, the control panel rear cover and returning the unit top to the resting position and snappin it into place. The Power ON check indicated that the problem fault code was cleared. The unit functions normally with the new switch. Hats off to PartSelect. The part was available in stock, and shipped promptly, and at substantially less cost than Sears.

Notice Basket Hub replacement video and application was straight forward.
Suspension Rod Kit was a little more time consuming, video are ok, but
don't rely on video along. Removing top of appliance check and recheck
rear of appliance for attachments screw prior to trying to remove top.

It is good to watch a video on how to!
Most went well, like all repairs, there are surprises, that make It take longer than expected. Once I put it back together and ran it, there was a UL code. After reading more posts, I found UL is unbalanced. After reading more… one of the problems could be the hub on the bottom may be loose. I checked that. Yep the hex bolt was loose. I forgot to put lock tight on it. Fixed that and ran it, worked flawlessly.
It would be nice to have install instructions in the box. Otherwise watch videos.

Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.

Removed the softener dispenser and cap that's under it. Used 7/17" socket with an 18" long extension to reach the bolt that holds agitator down. Pulled auger off, pulled lower agitator off. Removed the 6 philips head screws that hold basket hub in place. Removed hub and installed new one, replaced screws. Lightly greased spline and reinstalled lower agitator. The auger has the cam section in it. A trick to get the rollers in place is to secure them to the cam with rubber band. Have string tied to the band. Insert the cam and when almose all the way in, pull rubber band off and the rollers stay in place. Reinstalled the bolt, cap and softener dispenser.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

I just unscrewed the top agitator cap and slid the o-ring on and put it back. Done in seconds.

Just had to remove cap on agitator and replace new rubber seal.

went well but alas the problem still exists.

Rubber O ring around the Inner Cap was rotted and busted through. Replaced with new Inner Cap Seal. Easy as pie!

Removed the fabric softner at the top of the agitator (needed a screw driver to pry it loose) and reached in to grab the barrier with my hand and pulled it out, very simple to do.When I put the new one in I put some liquid soap on the gasket and it snapped right into place.Very easy to do, all is well now, thanks Part Select.

First unplug electrical, disconnect all hoses. If there is a large volume of water left in the machine you need to get it out.Pull machine out so you will have room to work. Lay machine front face down. Remove drive belt, inspection cover.Take the hose clamps back up the hose,remove hoses from pump. Remove the three screws that hold the pump in place.Replace pump, take steps back as you removed the pump to restore machine to operation.Total time 45 min. I am old and slow.

Pulled back off of washer. Removed Spring clamps from inlet and outlet of pump housing. Removed hoses. Removed three screws holding pump in place. Disconnected electrical plug connector. Reassembled in reverse order. Note: new pump had no isolators and pump motor cover looked like a rat had chewed it up; however, motor, pump, and hoses appeared to be new. Put it on without the motor cover and it works. Epoxied the old pump housing to seal it up and now have a spare.

It was not easy but I dit my sell