WFW9400SZ02 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Found it impossible to get the bellow off the machine. Removed the front spring. Even tried to but off the bellow. No luck. Called repairman. He had to take off the front panel, door panel, and the top of the machine before he could remove the back spring/clamps.

After diagnosing codes noticed no drain replaced pump asm

removed three screens on lower front panel removed hoses from pump after opening drain/filter to remove water slid pump forward and out unplugged pump wiring harness reverse to install

Disconnected the water supply lines. Removed four screws holding the top to back frame. Removed the top. Disconnected the electrical valve connections. Removed the valve set mounting screw. Removed the valve set and replaced. Reversed the steps above for installation.

The repair went very easy after locating the repair manual inside of the washer. The service manual gave all of the codes that the machine can give. Checked the F-70 code and it stated to unplug the motor control unit. Once that was unplugged the led lights came back on and it acted like it could run again. New unit put in in less than 15 minutes. I'd suggest to have it over nights because the unit I received through UPS was very badly damaged on the outside but plugged it in and it still worked. Two weeks running and a lot of laundry later; still going well.

Remove the two screws holding the hinge to the washer body. Lift up on the hinge to remove from the washer. Remove all the screws holding the inner door piece to the outer cover. Remove the old hinge, replace with the new one. Put the two door pieces back together and tighten the screws. Place hinge back in on the washer body and push down. Replace screw at top and bottom. Close door and start using.

I had replaced the flowmeter, but that didn't solve the problem, so I ordered the hot/cold solenoid fill part. Other than ONE screw that was unique -- the back retaining screws were nut driver screws, the one retaining screw was a torx which, of course, couldn't be seen unless you pulled the washer all the way out. Unscrewed that, unhooked the hose clamp with pliers and worried the hose off, removed the four electrical connections (which were TIGHT) and replaced the part. Turned on the water and was dismayed to get a d/l error code. After some colorful language learned from my drill sergeant 40 years ago, I realized that was "door lock" and closed the door tightly. Ran great and the Mrs. thinks I'm a hero.

I just put the divider in the dispencer

I did not replace the pump body. I just removed the motor with the 3 screws. Put the new one on. This way I did not need to mess with the hose clamps.

replaced drain pump.Saved 200$

I unplugged the power and tilted the washer back and removed the kick panel. I then unscrewed the pump trap access and set aside. I used the shop vac to remove the remaing water from the washer to the drain pump, unplugged power to the pump, removed the discharge hose and suction hose. After everything was removed, I removed the pump. Everything I read said to take the pump loose before removing everything, it just worked better for me to take everything loose with the pump secure. Going back together I mounted the new pump, plugged it back in (I did not have to remove anything from the plug to use it on the new pump as the insert indicated), installed the discharge hose and the suction hose. I found it easier to rotate the clamp a bit on the sucttion hose to allow me to use my right hand to depress the clamp to get it back in place. Replaced the kick panel, lowered the washer back in place, plugged it in and ran it through a cycle, worked great.

I opened the top by taking four screws from the back and lifted the top. The part to be replaced was clearly in view. I opened the clamps on the hoses, pulled the hoses off, removed the wires, and reversed the process with the new part. The washer works great now! I ordered the part on a Friday, and it was delivered the next day, even though I didn't pay for overnight!

Very simple repair had to remove door from Washer, loosen the seals so that I could remove the old hinge. Inserted new hinge place the door and hinge on brackets and tightened the screws. I was very pleased with the fast action in getting me my parts, less than 24 hours.Thank You.

Unplugged electric cord and turned off water supply. Remove 3 screws @ rear of washer and removed top panel. Removed clamps on hoses and electrical connector to flow meter, removed and replaced with new flow meter. Replaced the top panel, turned on water supply and plugged unit in. Finished in less than 15 minutes. Saved myself several hundred $

I unscrewed the three small sheet-metal screws holding the washer top to the frame and slid the top aft and laid it on the floor. Then I took fine sandpaper and cleaned the plug contacts from the various components connected to the main control board. After five years or so I have found that most copper connectors will corrode and prevent electricity from flowing properly. That did not correct the problem. I checked the flow control device and it appeared clear and not binding. Then I pulled the drain pump filter and it was clear. I could hear the water pump running and the water flowing out the normal rubber hose. But the washer would stop three or four times during a wash cycle. Pressing 'RESET" and "START" would start the washer again. At the end of the cycle my wife noticed there was water in the washer tub. It had to come in via the water control valve. This is the valve you screw the hot and cold water hose into. It is a ice blue color and held in by one screw. I unscrewed the two hoses and removed the one screw. Then I had to slip the black supply hose from the valve leading to the flow meter. I disconnected the four electrical connectors and installed the new valve and found the screw hole did not align with the screw hole in the washer frame. I used a eighth-inch metal drill and drilled a new hole which lengthened the slot that the mounting screw normally went through. After I re-connected the hot and cold water lines to the valve I turned the water back on and put the top back on the washer. The washer worked like new. No stops. I did notice before changing the valve the water would flow into the washer tub like beer coming from a tap. After installing the new valve the water flowed in at three times the rate like a garden hose.