WFW9400SW04 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

To verify it was the motor making the noise not the drum bearing I removed the belt and rotated both by hand to see which one made naoise - then I ordered the motor.
To install the motor remove rear panel, slip belt off, remove 1 bolt holding motor in, carefully slide motor towards you until pivits disengage. Wires are ling enough to set motor on bottom of washer and rotate for easier access to connector. Install motor in reverse sequence.

1-Unplug washer
2-Remove the bottom of the front washer cover 3 screws
3-Locate pump and loosen pump drain cover turn to left just a little enough for water to start draining.
4- Suck-up water with wet/ dry vac. Remove 1 screw holding pump.
5- Flip pump electrical cover up and disconnect wiring from pump.
6- Remove 2 hose clamps. The outlet was not to hard to remove, but the intake was not easy to get the pliers on.
7- Install new pump. See instruction to install. I didn't have to remove any ribs to install the connector as in the instruction sheet that came with the new pump. Also I didn't think it was very clear instruction.
8- Last installing the spring clamps. The outlet went okay, but the inlet I never could get on. I could not get the pliers on the clamp. I fooled around at least 20 min. trying to get the clamp on. I went out and bought a 3/4 to 1 3/4 stainless hose clamp with the worm drive design. That is what took so long.You may want to get new hose clamps before starting.
Other wise I did okay.

1) Removed back of washer
2) Removed nut holding pulley
3) Pulled pulley off shaft
4) Put new pulley on shaft
5) Replaced and tightened nut
6) Replaced belt on pulley
7) Replaced back panel
7) Washed pile of laundry

remove 3 screws of top panel at rear. slide top to rear 1/2 inch and lift up. disconnect wire to flometer, remove clamps on hoses and remove, reverse to install. did not fix problem. ck'd screens at fill valves. ordered new fill valves--problem solved. solenoids must not have been opening up all the way.

I followed the repair blog by the poster most liked...

Somehow a bobby pin got into the drain pump housing. When it started to drain, the pin was rammed through the housing.Extremely easy to remove and replace. No special skills needed. Whirlpool did a good job in making it idiot proof. Unpacking the part took longer than installing it. Don't be afraid to do this repair. If you own a pair of pliers and a screwdriver,you can do it.

I purchased a stack kit from "Part select.com". The item was just what I needed to do the job. The delivery of the part was made the next morning. WOW! Excellent service! The process was completed in less than 24 hours, start to finish. Very impressed!

Disconnected 2 hoses and 1 screw and remove3d the old pump and reversed the proceedure to install the new pump.A piece of cake. Thanks

I first had to take off the back and the top to get to the pulley and the belt. The pulley had woobled so much that it had worn out the center nad it would no longer hold to the post in the tub. It also had cut into the back of the tub about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch. I unscrewed the nut holding the pulley and removed it. I then took a knife and trimmed the rough edges off the back of the tub to make it smooth. I then smoothed out the end of the post that the pulley fits on so the new pulley would fit. I tightned the nut and put the belt on the motor drive shaft and Used a robo grip to hold the belt as I turned it onto the pulley. I but the back and top back on and that was it.

Serviceman had previously replaced the hot and cold inlet valves, but the low pressure error persisted. Rather than cough up another $130 for the serviceman to return, plus parts and time, I decided to order the replacement flowmeter from PartSelect.

Unplug power and turn off water. Top of machine comes off by removing three screws at top rear; use socket, spanner or T20 driver. Unplug electric sensor from flowmeter. Old unit is removed, and new one connected to water line by squeezing spring-clips with a pair of flat nose pliers. Reconnect electric sensor.

Great move, easy, and saved myself the thick end of $200.

I romoved the front of the washer access panel. I then used the pliers to remove the clamps from the old hose and to replaceit with the new one.

First and foremost, I usually call a real man to come do a job like this, but after reading the repair stories, I gave it a shot. Very, very easy. Pop of the bottom panel off (three torx screws), drain the water out of the tub (if any), and just follow the directions in the box. Anyone can do this one.

First step was to remove old bellow. I opened the door there is a small wire with a spring attach that holds the outside of the bellow to thw washer. Then removed it from the water inlet, then took a short straight scewdriver to remove the gaint hose clamp holding it to the drum. Installed the new part. When putting hose clamp back on I removed the top of the washer by removing the three screws in the back then I flipped the hose clamp so I could use a long screwdiver from the top side.This will give you alot more room. Hope this helps

Removed washer door from washer. Lay door on work bench (table). You need to remove screws from around most of the washer door to remove broken hinge. Install hinge into door frame. Fasten all screws for hinge and door frame. Reinstall complete door assembly onto washer with removed screws. Helpful to have some hold door for ease of alignment. Tools used: 1/4 inch torque #15 bit with 1/4inch nut driver.

looked repair on you tube followed instructions. took off broken latch. compared to pictures on sites. ordered part. part arrived in 2 days. put part on. suggest using first method quick and easy.