WFW9200SQ03 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

I started by dismounting the door from the washer, then placed the door on a flat counter with a towel underneath to avoid scratching. I unscrewed all the bolts securing the the frame. Once the frame was removed, I dismounted the broken door hinge and secured the new one in reverse order. Just a little time and patience. Job completed with no mess!

open the front bottom panel (3) screws. remove panel. twist off old shocks by turning the shock counter clockwise. reinstall shock by turning clockwise.

The repair went very easy after locating the repair manual inside of the washer. The service manual gave all of the codes that the machine can give. Checked the F-70 code and it stated to unplug the motor control unit. Once that was unplugged the led lights came back on and it acted like it could run again. New unit put in in less than 15 minutes. I'd suggest to have it over nights because the unit I received through UPS was very badly damaged on the outside but plugged it in and it still worked. Two weeks running and a lot of laundry later; still going well.

I just put the divider in the dispencer

Remove the two screws holding the hinge to the washer body. Lift up on the hinge to remove from the washer. Remove all the screws holding the inner door piece to the outer cover. Remove the old hinge, replace with the new one. Put the two door pieces back together and tighten the screws. Place hinge back in on the washer body and push down. Replace screw at top and bottom. Close door and start using.

Disconected washer, disconected water lines, Removed top cover. Removed screw holding valve, disconnected 2 connectors for valve put everything back together

removed three screens on lower front panel removed hoses from pump after opening drain/filter to remove water slid pump forward and out unplugged pump wiring harness reverse to install

Greatest difficulty was positioning machine to get at rear. Disconnected inlet hoses. Removed rear 3 screws to remove cabinet top. Removed rear holding screw to inlet valve. Removed two electrical connections to inlet valve. Disconnected inlet valve from interior hose. Reversed process to install new inlet valve.

The repair was easy. It took 15-20 min to replace the valve at the most. Three screws on the back and the top comes off. The valve is right there on top. Undid water hoses and then one screw and one clamp to remove the valve. So simple and problem resolved. I also took this opportunity to replace the water hoses (they were over 7 years old) since I had to take them off anyway.

I removed the old pump and replaced it with the new one. I am the happiest person on earth right now to have my washing machine working at its best again. Thank you so much.

Replaced water pump

I unscrewed the three small sheet-metal screws holding the washer top to the frame and slid the top aft and laid it on the floor. Then I took fine sandpaper and cleaned the plug contacts from the various components connected to the main control board. After five years or so I have found that most copper connectors will corrode and prevent electricity from flowing properly. That did not correct the problem. I checked the flow control device and it appeared clear and not binding. Then I pulled the drain pump filter and it was clear. I could hear the water pump running and the water flowing out the normal rubber hose. But the washer would stop three or four times during a wash cycle. Pressing 'RESET" and "START" would start the washer again. At the end of the cycle my wife noticed there was water in the washer tub. It had to come in via the water control valve. This is the valve you screw the hot and cold water hose into. It is a ice blue color and held in by one screw. I unscrewed the two hoses and removed the one screw. Then I had to slip the black supply hose from the valve leading to the flow meter. I disconnected the four electrical connectors and installed the new valve and found the screw hole did not align with the screw hole in the washer frame. I used a eighth-inch metal drill and drilled a new hole which lengthened the slot that the mounting screw normally went through. After I re-connected the hot and cold water lines to the valve I turned the water back on and put the top back on the washer. The washer worked like new. No stops. I did notice before changing the valve the water would flow into the washer tub like beer coming from a tap. After installing the new valve the water flowed in at three times the rate like a garden hose.

Took the front panel below tub and above pedestal off washer. Removed pump and found coins in the strainer. Removed them thinking they may be causing the problem. Put everything back together and tried again. Washer still wouldn't drain. Unplugged it and ordered a new pump. Installed pump after removing the plug and draining water from washer. Replaced pump with new one and washer works like new.

Had to open the panels, remove the old drain pump and install the new one. Remember if there is water still in the hose to either take it out with a wet/dry vacuum or put towels under neither to sook the water. 15 minutes of work and your done.

Disconnected the water supply lines. Removed four screws holding the top to back frame. Removed the top. Disconnected the electrical valve connections. Removed the valve set mounting screw. Removed the valve set and replaced. Reversed the steps above for installation.