CAW9244XQ2 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Very simple repair with the kit. Old rods came out easily using vise grips locked on to rods about 10-12 inches down and pulling up. Had doubts if they were bad since everything looked good but drum bounced back several times when I shoved it down to test it earlier. New rods went in just as easy and replaced in less than 30 min. Hardest part was that I had very cramped laundry room so had to move and disconnect hoses etc. to move into larger space for repair and then move back to reconnect. Parts came quickly within about 3 days and now purrs like a kitten!

I FOLLOWED THE INSTRUCTIONS IN THE VIDEO AND HAD NO PROBLEMS. It was very easy.

Exactly like the video from the website

Replaced pulley and plastic gears and belt. Belt was riding off fully cutting through cover.

After changing the cogs, inner-auger clutch assembly, retaining bolt and drive belt, the washer will still not agitate. Any suggestions??

Replacing the part was fairly easy. However it did not resolve the problem. The spin cycle did not activate,leaving my washer full of water. We ordered another Maytag Washer. Hopefully this one doesn't break down for a long time.

Having been out of the business for quite a few years I thought that I was dealing with a direct drive machine. Thinking that it was the motor coupler. I removed the control panel and attempted to pull the cabinet froward. Not so, it had a solid cabinet, so I tilted the machine against the wall and looked under the washer finding the driven Transmission pulley loose on the shaft. The splines on the pulley were pretty well worn but I tightened the nut and it worked okay. But I ordered a pulley and replaced after it's arrival. The motor capacitor also broke it's mount off so I had to rehang it with zip ties and repaired the wires to the Capacitor, (Which BTW had about 22 gauge wire). I found it hard to believe that they would use such small wire.

Figuring out how to take the lid off was the hard part. Took out the old and replaced with new and put lid back on and rehooked up.

At first I had to position the washer so I could get access.. after having it positioned, I figured it out. Getting the clamp fastened, I was done.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

First I removed the two screws on the back of the control console( at the bottom, phillips head). Flip that up and out of the way. Then you could remove the 2 big clips that hold the back of the washer to the cabinet. Disconnect the lid switch and flip the cabinet forward and out of the way. Remember when putting the cabinet back on, line up the slots on the bottom of the cabinet with the toungues on the base. Next pull off the fabric softner dispenser, then reach down in there and pull out the bottom seal of that to expose the bolt that hold the agitator on. Remove that bolt and pull off the agitator. Remove that little clip and the plastic piece above the spanner nut. I didn't have a spanner wrench so I hade to use a small extension from my socket set and a hammer to loosen it. Once that is removed then you could remove the ring around the top of the tub, and pull the tub off. Now you could see the block and probably all the metal shavings it's been creating. If the two ears that stick up and fit in to the block are worn, you should replace that too. I think you hve to replace that from the bottom. Now just put it all back together. Print out the exploded diagram from the web sit so you have it right there. Good luck!

I had to remove 3 screws from the back of the washer to be able to lift the top. Then remove 3 screws under the lid which held the switch in, unplug the old part and put the new one in. It was quite sinple. The most difficult part was figuring out you have to slide the top of the washer forward a bit to be able to tilt it up.

Easy, If your drive block has an open top, it's worn. Look at a picture of a new drive block and compare. If it doesn't match, then you need a new drive block. Note: Also check the drive clutch and clutch liners or pads...they may be worn. In my case it was the drive block this time. So to start, take off the fabric softenner dispenser in the center of the washer. Then pull out the seal. then remove the bolt. and pull off the agitator assembly. after that tap off the lock nut with a punch and hammer or if you have the special spanner wrench tool, use that. Once removed, pull out the inner tub and then pull the drive block off the shaft. Put the new drive block on and reverse the procedure from there. Tap the lock nut tight with the punch and hammer while re-installing. I'm so glad I did this repair. $15 is so much better than just giving in and buying a new washer!!!

Disassembled ,as assembled.

Removed two brackets on back top of washer that hold top secure. Pulled top forward and up off off pins located on front top of washer. Located switch removed two screws holding it in. Then removed Panel on back of top in order to get to controls and unplugged other end of switch. Then reversed procedure and waher was back in service.