GHW9250MT0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

take the back cover off and put belt on. the belt is a tight fit and requires sone effort, but can be done.

My 12 year old son did it in about 3 minutes. I wish I had oredered more because it is sure to break again.

Unplugged and disconnected water lines. Removed three machine screws on the back edge of the washer top. Lifted the back and then pulled it to release it from the front. Removed 1 screw from the back next to the hot water connection. Slide the water valve assembly over to the left if you are standing in front of the washer and it pops out. Then slide the hose clamp for the small hose off and use flat head screw driver to pry hose loose. Then use flat head to gently work connectors off. Then reinstall everything in reverse order. Reconnect water lines turn on water and watch water leaks before cover is reinstalled.

1)I removed the bottom front panel,reached up the right side of the machine and pulled the manual release on the bottom of the latching mechanism.2)I then removed the top to the machine in order to gain access to the latch. 3)I removed three electrical connectors then the three mounting screws using a #15 Torx driver. I then reversed the reverse procedure to install the new latch. total time to do the job was less than half an hour. Machine works OK.

firts remover the three bolts that held the front panel on, and removed that. Then removed the screw that held the pump in place. then removed the hoses from the pump. After that put hoses on new pump and srewed back in place . the put front back on.

The baffles do push thru slots in the drum and by then pulling them towards you, it moves slightly locking them into place. There are screws supplied and they could be installed to aid in the baffles not coming off as ofter but this cannot by done by the average person for you would need special tools and allot of fixet smarts and patience. My washer can be set at a higher spinout speed and this does save on drying costs but the trade off is the baffles break off way too often. There are metal tabs in the drum that are raised up and snap behind tabs on the underside of the baffles as you slid them towards you install them. If you rebend these tabs up with a longnose pliers twice as high as they are, they will have more holding force, keeping the baffles from coming off as often. In my opinion, the baffles should have been designed to slide backwards to lock them in place, not foward. If you look at how they are shaped, they natually have pressure pushing them towards the back of the drum in the spin cycle which just contributes to the problem of them coming off in the first place.

Repair was very simple. First watch the video that is available on this website. The installation went exactly like the video described. I pulled the washer away from the wall a few inches. Removed the three screws that hold the top on. Removed the top. Shut off the water and removed the water lines. Removed the single screw that holds the inlet valve in place (T20 torx).Removed the inlet valve, removed the hose from the valve. Reversed the operation to re-install. About a 20 minute job, tops. Tested the washer when finished and it worked great. It has been a couple of weeks now and no water has accumulated in the drum.

Followed internet instructions

Easy to install.
Baffles came with 3 screws and no directions.
The screws unnecessary and we easily figured out how to install.
Quick delivery, 1-2 days.

First I removed the two screws that hold the door handle in place. I then pulled the door handle off and replaced it with the new one. As long as partselect.com is around I'll be able to keep my appliances longer.

Super easy replacement. 2 Screws and a regular screwdriver or a #20 torx will work.

We removed the front cover to the washer. Then we removed the drain pump piece that was broken. We put the new drain pump in and secured the screws. We also inspected all the hoses to make sure the hose clamps were intact. Then leaving the front cover off the machine to inspect for leaks we turned on the wash cycle. No more problems.

Removed the 3 screws that hold the bottom front panel in place. Removed the 3 screws that hold the door latch in place and pulled out on the bottom of the door which wasn't very much and slid the door latch out to get to the wire connections. Connected the wires to the new latch and pulled out bottom again and put the latch back into place and put the 3 screws back in. Note: make sure you unplug the washer so you don't have a chance to get shocked. Level of difficulty was pretty easy.

Removed the three screws in the back took off the top and swamped out the part. I recommend that the inlet valve is checked periodically by removing the hoses to see if there's any build up on the filter.

1. After ordering I watched the video on the page for the part, the guy showed exactly what to do.
2. The day the part was to arrive I leaned the washer back and opened the lower front, based on the video on the page for the part, and removed the old shock absorber.
3. Part arrived, and I put in the new shock.
4. I ran a light load in the washer and it worked.
5. I put the washer back together and put in place.
6. I have since run a full load and it has worked well.

Note: In case I messed up the shock I was putting in, I bought 2 but did not need the 2nd one. I have kept it, just in case my 20 year old Whirlpool might need another one in the future.