GHW9160PW1 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Easily. 4 Screws. 2 Clamps.

Removed old parts and installed the new parts.

Lined the new one up with one hand;(cold beer in the other), snapped it to place, finished.

Inserted new baffle in washer and slide in place.

Unplugged power cord, turned off both water valves on the wall, Disconnected the water hoses o the back where they are attached to the water inlet valve. Note: there will likely be some water left in the hoses. Then removed top lid of washer (this is a front load washer) by removing the 3 nut screws on the back of the lid and sliding it to the back and lifting off.. Disconnected the small hose that is attached to the water inlet valve by squeezing the hose clamp and sliding the hose off. Removed the 4 wires connected to the water inlet valve (marked each one with a number in order) then removed the Phillips head screw on the back of the machine holding the water inlet valve, sliding the valve to the right, . Removed valve, and replaced with new one, and re-installed by reversing order of removal.

As easy as 123 two torx screws removed old pieces and install the new one and like that ready for another 15 years.

First, I unscrewed the two screws on the broken handle, using an allen wrench. Then, I screwed on the new handle in it's place. The new grey handle is much lighter in color than the original charcoal grey of the washer, but it blends well and works perfectly.

the old handle was held in place with two screws.
the screws were removed, handle came off right away and then the new handle was place on the door and the screws were replaced.

I purchased a new bellows from this site I followed their instructions. Just tricky getting the inner clamp on aligned and tightened.

Pull spring wire on front. Remove large hose lamp at tub. Reinstall in reverse order.

I had units stacked so I had to take the dryer off, pull 3 screws from back, slide cover back and the water valve is right there, easy to change. I have not had the problem since then.

2 clamps and its off, problem is if you have average size hands you will struggle in getting the back clamp on and off.

First I removed the retainer ring that holds the outside bellows on the frame of the front washer.
I then pushed the bellows inside of the drum of the washing machine in-order to get to the clamp that holds the bellows on the inside of the drum. To pull the clump I had to use a stubby screwdriver and socket drive to loosen the clamp. Once the clamp is loosen I was able to pull the bellows off, of the drum and out of the washing machine. Installation was the reverse of removal.

Inputs on your web site of other people who had replaced this valve assembly helped.
Remove top cover from washer - three socket head screws on rear of machine, (need to move washer forward for access)
Turn off both hot and cold manual shutoff vales on wall. Run washer to take water pressure off from hoses (turn on for water to turn on , and then turn washer off).
Remove both hoses (mark/remember which side is hot/cold, as valve assembly has no markings), from valve assembly, had to use channel locks/adjustable wrench to remove nuts as they were really tight. Check to see if gaskets were OK, would have been nice, if these gaskets are supplied with new valve assembly. Remove screw which holds valve assembly to washer. Slide valve assembly slightly side ways to free it from bulkhead panel. Remove last hose assembly inside washer, attached to valve; remove four wires from solenoids. Keep track of wires (which solenoid).
Replace valve, reconnect internal hoses and wires; install valve assemble on bulkhead panel; attach screw; reconnect hoses; turn on manual valves; check for leaks; briefly turn on washer, check for internal leaks; install cover; push back washer in place.

disconect wayer inlet hoses.remove screws that hold the top cover. This will expose the water inlet valve. remove the defective valve and any other associated clamps,hose etc. test run for leaks.