GHW9400PW2 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

UNPLUG WASHER ,SLIDE WASHER OUT FROM THE WALL. TAKE THE BACK OFF ,THEN TAKE PANET OFF IN THE FRONT. TWIST OLD SHOCKS ON THE TOP FIRST THEN TWIST BOTTOMS AND THE SHOCK WILL CUM OUT. PUT NEW SHOCK IN BOTTOM FIRST TWIST TILL YOU HEAR OR FEEL THE SHOCK SEAT ITSELF THEN INSTALL ON THE BOTOOM OF THE TUB.

Factory hose clamps were awkward to maneuver. I used automotive radiator hose clamps instead. They worked great.

1. After ordering I watched the video on the page for the part, the guy showed exactly what to do.
2. The day the part was to arrive I leaned the washer back and opened the lower front, based on the video on the page for the part, and removed the old shock absorber.
3. Part arrived, and I put in the new shock.
4. I ran a light load in the washer and it worked.
5. I put the washer back together and put in place.
6. I have since run a full load and it has worked well.

Note: In case I messed up the shock I was putting in, I bought 2 but did not need the 2nd one. I have kept it, just in case my 20 year old Whirlpool might need another one in the future.

Easily. 4 Screws. 2 Clamps.

I followed your repair video explicitly, simple fix. However, one should
be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from
the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the
rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" into the narrow slot which displaces the
wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe
the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they
connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this
repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!

Remove three screws on bottom panel lift up and remove panel.The water pump in right in front. One screw holds it in place and the input and output hoses are on the back side.The hose clamps are a little hard to take off I found that before taking the one screw off the pump remove these two lines.Putting the pump back in secure the pump with the one screw. The output line is easy the intake line can be a bit of a more work to get it on because the rubber is so thin.Getting this hose and clamp was tough. Most of all use a wet vac to remove water in washer and vac out the line to drain doing this will be water free during replacing water pump.Run a cycle to make sure the lins do not leak. The other is the people that has posted this replacement are very good

Easiest repair on 2003 front loading washer. This unit cleverly uses star tool machine screws with a hex head so you can pick your favorite tool. Turn off the water supply. Remove the hot and cold hoses at the inlet valve, draining any water into a small bucket. Have a towel for dribbles. *This is a good time to examine the hoses and replace them if they are anything other than perfect. Burst or leaking hoses is the #1 cause of water damage in homes.* Three screws releases the top cover which slides 1/2 inch back and lifts off easily. Remove one screw securing the inlet valve (same size screw as the others). Pull the old inlet valve away from the rear panel for easier access. Remove the 4 wires from the solenoids (they pull straight off but maybe need a little finesse), and re-attach to the new inlet valve. Using pliers, release the hose clamp on the old valve sliding it down a couple of inches, then move the hose to the new valve and reposition the hose clamp. Toss the old inlet valve in the trash, screw the new one in place, replace the top panel, reattach and hand-tighten your hoses, turn on the water, look for any leaks, and go have a three martini lunch with the money and time you saved.

Just removed two screws with a phillips screwdriver and screwed the new handle on. Super simple

This was really simple. submitted the appliance name and number and ordered the part. It arrived within 3 days(in the meantime I used pliers to turn the control stem that remained) and it just popped on. Perfect!

Lined the new one up with one hand;(cold beer in the other), snapped it to place, finished.

Inserted new baffle in washer and slide in place.

Simple repair. #20 Torx, pair of pliers and 10 minutes to complete the job. Part was exact fit. Turned off the water supply, removed the three screws at the back, slid the top to the back and lifted it off to reveal the valve. Removed the screw holding the valve in place, slid the valve to the right and pulled the valve out to the inside. Used pliers to move the hose retainer off the valve, removed the hose, unplugged the wires, and reversed the procedure to install the new valve.

Removed the outer spring with pliers. Pushed the bellow into the drum. Loosened the clamp on the bellow with a stub nose screwdriver. Removed the bellow. lined bellow up with soap fiting. Reversed procedure to reinstall.

This was truely easy. All I needed was a flat head screw driver and it was done within five minutes.

Followed directions as shown in your repair video, having done this for the first time it took a bit longer than a repairman would have but was able to git-r-done. The most difficult part was fitting the adjustable wire back around the front of the washer, in the video it is made to look really easy however in real life it is a little more difficult and could not be attached so easily and took quite a bit of time to make sure it was attached correctly. thank you for your help.