LPR6244AW0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

First used wet vac to get water out. Unplug electrical cord. Shut off water and unhook lines. Unhook drain tube. Flip over on side. Take belt cover off. two screws.
Took photos of parts removing just for re- install. Ordered parts from part select.com. Came in Two days. The dealer was on 12 days I gave up on them. I removed actuator two easy screws and pulled off electrical connection no tool needed. Then removed pump three longer screws Than other part. Make sure to label them in a ziplock baggie. Plus I removed hose clamp with pliers slide Back on hose and pull hose off. Then remove electrical connection on pump. If it makes you feel better label each with masking tape so I know where each connection goes. Then replace pump first with new one. Make sure you push it in hard then the screws. Don’t over tighten. Plastic parts break. Hook back up hose slide clamp back over fitting end with pliers. Hook up wire connector. Next hook up actuator. Two screws wire connector and your done. Put belt guard back on. Socks can get caught under washer get in belt and cause major issue. Then you need to reconnect water lines. Make sure hot goes to hot. Cold to cold. Drain hose hook back up. Plug in power cord. Now the fun part. Run a diagnostic and then calibration. See you tube videos it’s like 3 clicks to left then two to right with selector knob. Write down the exact amount of clicks and steps. It works. Be sure to turn knob 4 times to left to clear it like a combination lock. Don’t let the noises scare you it makes all
Kinds of sounds while calibration goes on.

Put new one on work good, but now can't pump no more .the problem now is the spin cycal broke and I not going to fix it. Thank for the part work good.

I did a Google search for the model number and found this site, PartSelect.com. Based on the diagrams on the site and what I could see underneath the washer, it was clear that the motor coupling was now gone and the shattered pieces of it were all over the floor. So I ordered a new coupling and waited for it to arrive, it was shipped in just a few days. Once I had the new coupling all I had to do was remove a couple of brackets holding the pump onto the motor, and the motor onto the gearbox; unplug the electrical terminals and lift the motor out. There are two halves to the coupling, one sits on the shaft of the gearbox and the other on the shaft of the motor. Both of these are seated into a rubber boot that is also a part of the coupling. Once the motor is sitting on the gearbox with all the coupling parts seated in place, just plug everything back in and replace the brackets. You will need a 1/4 socket to remove/replace the motor brackets. Also, it should be noted that you will want to unhook everything that is hooked to the wall (hoses, power cord) but it assumed you've already done this if you have access the the underneath of the washer.

I have a new faucet so I remove the screen then I used an extender ring put on your adapter an got the washer to run.

Installed part, now it works great!

First I screamed at the ceiling, because I have a three year old and an infant, and the washing machine was dead. Then I went to youtube. It seemed like the "agitator dogs" were the issue.

In this spirit of any repair, I replaced them, and it was not the issue. I don't know what I expected.

Ceiling. YouTube. Pacing.

Then I figured it was this part - the motor coupling. I unplugged the machine and took out the drain tube. I leaned the machine back and propped it up with an empty detergent bottle, because those were abundant. Ratchet off a few bolts and the motor comes out. The coupling was indeed broken. The new one slips right in - I tapped it a few times with a mallet for good measure / vengeance. Ratcheted the bolts back on and tipped it back up.

Pros: Washer works now.
Cons: Everest-esque laundry pile to address.

But hey, it worked! I am no handyman and it wasn't too bad at all. Half hour tops.

Yes, I agree that the actual replacement of the pump was an easy task on this whirlpool washing machine, however, unlike other posters, I had no access through the bottom of the machine. My machine has a solid pan on the bottom. It has a large hole in the center - I think to access the transmission, but no access where the pump is.
So, I had to dismantle the entire enclosure, first the back (about 6 screws, a couple of electrical connections, etc.), then remove the rest of the enclosure to reveal the guts of the machine. I also had to disconnect a small vacuum tube attached to the tub, and remove the control console on top along with the back. It was pretty straight forward, took about two hours to dismantle. Then, the actual removal of the pump was as easy as others have described here - two spring clips and a hose clamp and I had it in my hand. I ordered the new part, which came very quickly - 2 days I think. Then I took another two hours to re-assemble the machine. It works - yeah!
Symptoms - water leak on the floor, it was actually intermittent for a time, so I procrastinated. Then when I actually did the work, I could see the rust trail and follow it to the leaky pump. The pump was actually leaking through the center, where the drive shaft from the motor goes. There is probably a seal between the impeller and the central drive slot that gives out after a while.
New pump in - machine back together - no leaks.

Repair went well and relatively easy, but did not fix the problem.
Suspect timer switch was the culprit. Nothing was clogged or plugged
up. Water pump and impeller were free and clear with no damage
or leaks.

I could not make the repair. If you get the pump specified on the shaft that drives the pump, the pump will be broken. I tried to call, nobody answers the phone. I ended up buying a Washing Machine and I'm stuck with a pump I cannot use.

We had to take the motor out and remove the coupling, when putting it back together we had some problems because the washer was on its side and the lid was open. After putting the motor and coupling back together we tried to turn it on, unknowing to us the lid was open so nothing would happen, finally we realized the lid was open. The actual repair was not complicated, just human error made it seem than way

removed water lines from back of washer. tilted washer to get access to the pump/ removed 2 hoses at pump and removed to snap clips attaching the pump. easiest repair i ever did. washer works fine now.

Disconneted hoses,unplugged.removed drain hose.Turned unit on its side.Unsnapped retainers,tryed to to pull off with just my hands,that didn't work.Used a pry bar to pop off.The end of the shaft was rusted out.I took a dremel with wire brush and cleaned up the end.Then the pump njust slid on.I took it off again and applied some anti-sieze on the end of shaft.then put pump back on.Snapped the retainers and put hoses back on.It was easy.When I first looked up washer parts,I found this other site and the price ws doulbe.Then I found you guys ,1/2 the cost and it was here in 2 days.Thank You Parts select.

We unscrewed the two screws at the back of the control panel. Holding the control panel on both ends
we pulled it toward the front of the machine, slightly and gently lifting it at the same time, removing it from the metal surround. Holding the control panel up off of the surround we rocked the surround forward and lifted it off the washing machine frame.
We could see where the leak was coming from. We took the hose clamps from the two ports, then
using a pair of pliers pulled the two clips that are holding the pump onto the shaft protruding from the
electric motor. We matched up the part on the web sight. Ordered the part then when it came in we just reversed the order putting the machine back together. The hardest and most time consuming
thing about this repair was the clean up of the washing machine. (Dirt and soap residue does
build up on the inside of the wash tubs.)

Tipped the washer onto it's side, used pliers to loosen clamps on old hose. Removed outer drain hose from white plastic hose adapter on back of washer. Removed white hose adapter (snaps out of place) and old hose. Fed new hose through opening for white adapter, then snapped new adapter into place on back of machine. Put the new hose in place and replaced clamps. Sat washer back upright. No more leaking! It was easy and didn't take more than 15-20 minutes.

The hardest part was removing the machine's cabinet. 2 screws on either end of the control panel, tip the control panel back out of the way and remove 2 clips, then slide the cabinet off the front. Replacing the valve was very easy. I didn't need the mounting plate that came with it. At first it looked like the screw hole wasn't going to line up with the hole in the back of the machine, but then I noticed that the valve had a groove that allowed it to slide downward on to the back. Pretty easy overall.