WFW9400STA10 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

We hired a local repairman and he even had trouble . I would not suggest anyone trying this installation on their own. It took the repair guy an hour to do and he struggled. Not an eary installation

pulled the front and top of the machine off, pulled off the old bellow, ordered the new bellow, and put the new bellow on. we looked on youtube.com for a video on repairing the machine.

Found it impossible to get the bellow off the machine. Removed the front spring. Even tried to but off the bellow. No luck. Called repairman. He had to take off the front panel, door panel, and the top of the machine before he could remove the back spring/clamps.

I started by dismounting the door from the washer, then placed the door on a flat counter with a towel underneath to avoid scratching. I unscrewed all the bolts securing the the frame. Once the frame was removed, I dismounted the broken door hinge and secured the new one in reverse order. Just a little time and patience. Job completed with no mess!

First, I watched the video again just to make sure I had a firm grasp of the task ahead. I gathered up the tools and proceeded to begin. First obstacle: getting the washer tilted back enough to put the blocks under the front feet. The washer was sitting inside a square water pan with a drain connected directly under the middle of the washer. Therefore, the water pan did not move and I could only get the washer moved out far enough to 'barely' put the blocks underneath. Second obstacle: a clump of hair had gathered at the bottom portion of the door unnoticed and caused a slow leak from the bellows. This leak dripped down and rusted out two of the three screws. I had to use a socket set to get the screws out. Third obstacle: getting the pump removed from the bottom of the washer. With the drip, the pump had stuck to the bottom of the washer. Trying hard not to get cut on the sheet metal bottom, I pushed and pushed and pulled until finally the pump let loose. From that point on..smooth sailing just like the video. Washer fixed!

removed retaining ring on front gasket, pulled gasket back, took out door lock latch, unhooked wires, then reversed method to replace.

Very limited access to the bellow clamp. Found it easier to first remove washer front panels (8 screws total), providing ready access to R&R the bellow. 40 minutes tops.

Took the outer ring off with the help of pliers just be careful. Push the bellow into the washer. We cleaned the area good at this time. Put the new bellow in being sure to keep the wrinkles out and securing it in place with the other clamp. Make sure to keep it lined up and wrinkle free to prevent leaks and possible tears later on. You will need the screwdriver to tighten the screws in the inner clamp.

I removed the top 3 screws on the rear, removed soap dispenser, removed screw in front corner at soap dispenser,pry off control panel with flat head screwdriver lay on top, removed spring around bellows at door opening, remove 4screws holding door assembly, disconnect 3 molded plugs serving door lock, you will need to hold door while you loosen bellows clamp.Reverse process note: soap dispenser tube can be removed to clean without any tools. It is some much easier when you remove the front door assembly.T-20 torx screwdriver, 9/32 socket Theirs a you tube video also.ghw

This part worked great! Completely fixed all the problems that I had with my washer. A bit hard to actually place it in(pliers are necessary) but otherwise very easy to install.

took the old part out by the front panel and put the new pump in and now it works great. only took a couple of minute to put the new one in. thank you for saving my washer.

Well first of all when you buy this washer, the salesperson should tell you about checking the drain catch (ahead of the pump) and emptying out whatever get's caught in there. Never had a clue until it wouldn't work, then did a search on the internet, and darn if I didn't find specific instructions on how to open and clean out. Mine was packed full of hair pins, small change, lint, buttons, etc, all kinds of stuff. Guessing that is why the pump went out in the first place, it was so packed full that the pump could not draw any water through. But even after I cleaned it out, the pump was already shot. So called a service man, he said the pump would cost me around $200, then his labor to put it in, plus a $68 service call to just come and look at it, and $68 when he comes back to replace it. So I searched the internet for how to replace, came up with a very detailed You Tube video on how to replace Whirlpool Duet Pump. So ordered my pump from PartsSelect, just over $100, and replaced it myself. Super easy, only about 5 minutes. Thanks! —A very determined housewife!

I had replaced the flowmeter, but that didn't solve the problem, so I ordered the hot/cold solenoid fill part. Other than ONE screw that was unique -- the back retaining screws were nut driver screws, the one retaining screw was a torx which, of course, couldn't be seen unless you pulled the washer all the way out. Unscrewed that, unhooked the hose clamp with pliers and worried the hose off, removed the four electrical connections (which were TIGHT) and replaced the part. Turned on the water and was dismayed to get a d/l error code. After some colorful language learned from my drill sergeant 40 years ago, I realized that was "door lock" and closed the door tightly. Ran great and the Mrs. thinks I'm a hero.

Just went by instructions provided by parts web site

I just put the divider in the dispencer