WFW8300SW1 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Followed the most helpful video.with some system differences. Had quite a bit of fitment challenge with the inner bellow sealing process...finally used dish soap to help 'stretch' the thing on.Works fine now thanks.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

I had to replace the bellow to the washer because I discovered the leak was from the door and bellow area, only problem I really had..... was installing the bellow on the outer drum, I applied a coat of hand soap to make it easier to secure in place.

After getting dress that wife denies closing in door out the repair wasant to hard. There are 3 or 4 phillips screws in back that holds top on that have to be taken out and the kick plate cover on bottom just snaps off but the rest is covered very well by other discriptions.(by the way the dress had to be thrown away so not only did i get to by bellow but a new dress also and the bellow was cheaper)

Removed top panel. Removed rear panel. Replaced belt. Fairly easy only issue was getting the actual belt pulled enough to wrap around the pulley.

I was already very familiar with the motor & drain pump, as I had disassembled my original one in attempt to find the problem & fix it. Finally, I broke down & purchased a new one. It was VERY easy to install! The most difficulty was finding the right sized board to put underneath & raise the machine up (with the dryer attached to the top of it) to place the board underneath so that I could tighten the bolts from underneath to attach the pump. After that was over, the rest was cake! Just attach the hoses & the electrical, which just clips in place & my washer is like new again! Yay! Oh, and yes, I'm a woman DIY'er.

I pulled the front load washer away from the wall and unplugged. I tilted it back against the wall. I removed three screws from the lower front cover plate of washer. Once removed, I had access to the tub to pump hose which I found a small hole in. I went online to Partselect and found my part. The hose was connected in three different places by compression clamps. I then pulled the compression clamps off the connections. Cleaned up all connection points with a damp rag. Upon installation of the new tub to pump hose, I discarded the compression clamps and installed the new part using radiator clamps purchased at a auto parts store. Plugged washer back in and started a load too make sure all connections were good and tight with no leaks. After checking for leaks, I re-installed the front cover plate. Tilted washer back down being careful not too set it down hard or on my feet. Job Done....

My dryer is on top my washer so I removed the dryer and pulled the washer out. I had to get rid of the water that was inside so I used my wet vacuum on the drain hose and sucked it out I then removed the front cover and the I tipped it back and removed two screws from the bottom of the pump bracket underneath the washer and moved the two clams on the pump hoses back to uncouple the hoses. I removed the pump and installed the new one and hocked everything back including the wires to the pump which is just a quick connect and pushed it back into place and it worked like new

Put towel down to catch excess water, opened drain screen, used pliers to remove squeeze clamps on both hoses, removed front hold-down torx-head bolt and slid pump assembly out. Compared new part to old and found 2 differences 1:no hold-down location in front for bolt,2: the rubber padded feet are not the same. I was able to remove the two screws on the right side and use just the rubber pad for support while sliding the left side in the slot and is was plenty stable and works just fine. I guess the Whirlpool Duet model is a bit different on mounting but everything else fit quite well, the washer is working perfectly again.

dryer stacked on top of washer. had to lift washer and block w/2 x 4 to get under unit and replace pump

First, I watched the video again just to make sure I had a firm grasp of the task ahead. I gathered up the tools and proceeded to begin. First obstacle: getting the washer tilted back enough to put the blocks under the front feet. The washer was sitting inside a square water pan with a drain connected directly under the middle of the washer. Therefore, the water pan did not move and I could only get the washer moved out far enough to 'barely' put the blocks underneath. Second obstacle: a clump of hair had gathered at the bottom portion of the door unnoticed and caused a slow leak from the bellows. This leak dripped down and rusted out two of the three screws. I had to use a socket set to get the screws out. Third obstacle: getting the pump removed from the bottom of the washer. With the drip, the pump had stuck to the bottom of the washer. Trying hard not to get cut on the sheet metal bottom, I pushed and pushed and pulled until finally the pump let loose. From that point on..smooth sailing just like the video. Washer fixed!

I watched the youtube video, then ordered the part from partselect. I then took my ipad out to the garage where I placed my washing machine and completed the removal of the old seal and installed the new one with ease. Be patient when you try and fit the new seal over the lip on the machines doorway. That was the only hard part. Once I got it started, the rest was easy. I am very happy the video was available and even easier to follow the link to order the part. Thanks! Presslerc

I found a YouTube video that showed how to totally dismantle the machine. I removed the top ( easy 3 screws). Removed the bottom access panel (easy). Removed the control panel (1 Torx screw and rather tricky to unsnap). Removed the door and hinge (2 Torx screws). Removed the below retaining band (easy). Disconnected the bellow at the front panel then removed the door lock mechanism (easy). Removed the front panel (easy). Removed the bellow clamp on basket side (screwdriver hose clamp type, a little tricky but not too bad). Installed the new bellow paying close attention to the drain holes being centered on the bottom. Assembled all parts in reverse order. The really tricky part was the bellow clamp on the front panel. Patients prevailed.

removed retaining ring on front gasket, pulled gasket back, took out door lock latch, unhooked wires, then reversed method to replace.

A previous person had broken the actuator switch connection so I replace it and got rid of the error code. But water poured out and I eventually took off the whole dispenser assembly and found a sock had stopped the big hose up where it enters the outer wash drum.