CAM2752RQ0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Make sure you UNPLUG your washer first. It is also a good idea to remove the water intake hoses from the back to avoid damage to them or the valves.

Getting the outer panels off was the hardest part for me. There are 2 screws on the back of the function panel. You don't have to remove the screws completely, just until they are unscrewed from the bottom base. Then I gently pulled forward and up on the function panel and it flips back exposing the wiring. There is one wire harness plug that needs to be disconnected toward the center of the panel.
There are 2 large metal clips that are removed by pressing a flat head screwdriver into them. Press down and slightly toward the front of the washer and it will release the clip. Be careful, mine popped up and flew behind the washer.
Once the clips are removed you can pull the entire caging of the washer (top, front, right and left side panels as one) away from the machine. This will expose the entire innards of the washer.
In the front at the bottom is the water pump. It is very easily removed. Pinch the clamps around the hoses with a pair of pliers and move them up the hoses. Pull both hoses off the pump.
There are 2 metal clamps holding the pump in place. You can release them using a flat head screwdriver as well. Once free from clamps, the pump can be pulled straight forward to be removed.
Replace the pump with the new one, placing it in the same place and position as the old one. Attach the clamps back on. Mine were really hard to reattach as the tension was really tight.
Then slide the hoses back on and use the pliers to squeeze and slide the clamps back down the hoses to secure them to the pump.
Replace the cage of the machine. On my particular model, the front panel hooks under a metal lip and the side panels rest on them, so it was a challenge getting it back into place by myself in the small area I was working in.
Replace the metal clips on the top using the flat head screwdriver by pulling slightly toward the front of the washer and pressing down.
It was a little scary, I thought I was going to pinch myself.
Then reattach the one wire harness, flip the console back down and secure tightly.
Screw the 2 screws back in on the back of the function panel and your done. Reattach the hoses and plug in your washer.

This was my first washer repair. I did it with some sketchy online instructions for a different model washer. It took forever to get the washer open and was even more frustrating to put it back together. Changing out the pump was simple once I got in there. I saved over $100 in labor by doing this myself and in only took about 45 minutes.
I think I'm ready to open up the dryer and give it a good cleaning.

Replacing the clutch was easy but unfortunately did not fix the washing machine. I couldn't get the agitator loose at first, but it came loose when I unbolted the motor and transmission assembly. After replacing the clutch and reassembling the motor, I tilted the washer back up and found that the basket in the center under the agitator was cracked all the way around and that was why it wasn't spinning. It was also why the clutch was burning--trying to spin a basket that wasn't centered in the drum anymore. This washer is over 25 years old, so I decided not to replace the basket, since a replacement is about $400. A good attempt at an inexpensive repair, but unsuccessful.

Just kept removing rear panel fasteners until the panel could be separated from the washer sides and top. Removed the existing valve from the rear panel by removing one screw, and lifting the valve assembly slightly so that it could be pushed back through the rear panel holes. Removed the existing valve's wiring and outlet hose and transferred them to the new valve. When the four wires and one hose had been transferred from old to new, valve, inserted the new valve with connected wiring and hose back into the rear panel holes, and aligned the valve's screw hole with the hole in the rear panel. Replaced the screw which secures the valve assembly to the rear panel, and re-attached the rear panel.

I removed the cabinet and agitator, layed the machine on it's back, removed the pump, motor and gearcase. I found a way to prop the gearcase up so it rested level, removed the cover, drained the old oil. I removed all internal parts, disassembled them and cleaned them. I reassembled the gearcase using the new uetral drain assembly, and replaced the oil. I made sure the brake assembly was pushed into position and then put the gearcase, motor and pump back in. I sttod the machine up, put the cabinet back on and tested the machine. It still did not spin, so it wasn't the coupler, clutch or nuetral drain assembly.

I disconnected the water lines and pulled the washing machine over so it was lying on its front. I removed two screws on the bottom edge of the back, and then puzzled over how to get the back off. I ended up removing the screws that held the control panel on, removing the wiring harness, and taking the control panel/head off. This exposed two metal clips that I was able to unhook. I unhooked the water valve from the back, disconnected the electrical connections, removed the water line, and replaced the valve. Then I puzzled about how to put it back together for a bit, and basically just reversed the order I took it apart.

I tipped up the machine and had my wife hold it.
I removed the two hoses with water pump pliers. Then , I removed the two clips with my fingers. The old pump came off in my hands. I installed the two hoses on the new pump with my hands, lined up the pump drive with the hole pushed it in and re-attached the two clips with my hands.
The whole job took maybe five minutes. The hardest part of the job was conviencing my wife that there was no danger involved with the process.

replaced missing screw and pad and now machine works perfectly

very easy to repair , instructions very clear , parts person very good to talk to, parts got here fast

We had to take the motor off and find the part that holds the spring, took longer to fix as we are older people and took a brake after every spring. We used YouTube videos to help us I am thankful for this site and cheap prices.

laid washer on it's side and changed hose

First unplug washer and turn water off (both hot and cold) You only need to pull washer out away from wall about 1 1/2 feet. Take a putty knife and slide under the front corner of the control panel ( both sides one at a time) lift up corner as you slide putty knife under the corner. After both sides are released on the control panel slide control panel forward( about an inch) to release rear of panel and flip panel over the top. Unplug the lid safety switch then with a screw driver unsnap the cabinet straps one on both sides that were under the control panel. Put screw driver into the spring strap end closest to you and push screw driver back which will release the straps( one on each side). Next tilt the cabinet toward from the back( about 6 ") and lift up about 2 " the cabinet can now be removed. Undue the two hoses on the water pump that is located at the bottom of the washer in the front ( make sure you catch the water from the hoses in a small pan). Undue the two spring clips that hold the pump on. Pull pump straight out (about 1 ") discard old pump and install new one in reverse order. When reinstalling the cabinet there are two stubs on the bottom bracket on the washer that have to put into the slots in the lower front corners of the cabinet ( the hardest part of the whole project is putting the cabinet back on, the trick is what I described above with the slots in the lower front corners. Good luck it very easy to do.

Of course I tried to determine where the leak was from. There wasn't a solid flow of water and was confined to the front. Pulled the washer out and laid it down. Noticed that a metal clip had a little corrosion on it and followed it back to the water pump seal. Removed two hoses and unclipped the pump. That's it. No screws or nuts. Looks like it was expected to fail and was easy to replace. It did last for 20 years though.

I turned the washer on to see if I could determine where it was leaking from. After I figured out that it was the pump that was leaking, I ordered a new pump. I went with next day shipping because at our house, we can't go long without a washer and the cost for the shipping was worth it. Had it installed in 10 minutes, only tool needed was a pliers to remove the hose clamps, piece of cake repair!

undone 2 hoses and popped off brackets

very well the part was easy to install and the part was easy to find on the diagram furnished by parts select