3RGSC9455JQ1 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

just like video showed really helpfull

I did the repairs after watching a few videos on this web site and it covered everything I needed. Went well and the parts were perfect.

I was familiar with the Kenmore / Whirlpool direct drive mechanism but at first I could not determine how to release the console. I finally found the end cap trim pieces would pop off revealing the 2 screws that hold the console in place. After removing them the console flips up and over the backboard. I then removed the 2 clips that hold the cabinet to the backboard, unpluged the lid switch connector and then tipped the entire cabinet forward and off the frame. This gives you access to the entire washing machine mechanism.
Next I released the 2 metal clips that hold the pump on and push it out of the way leaving the hoses connected. Next I released the 2 clips that hold the pump on, these clips also have a screw to secure them. I was then able to set the motor to the side without removing any wires.
The coupling parts had broken and were already off of the motor shaft and the input drive shaft of the transmission. I put the new drive parts on and had to tap them down untill they were flush with the end of the shafts. I then put the rubber coupling on the transmission drive end and aligned the motor drive to mate into the other holes in the coupling as I put the two back together. I then re attached the 2 motor clips with screws and reinstalled the pump with it's clips. I then reinstalled the cabinet onto the frame and replaced the cabinet clips. I then plugged in the lid switch connector and flipped the console back over and screwed it down. I then reinstalled the trim caps that had me stumped to begin with. The unit tested out OK.

Pulled the machine out. Tilted is back, had my son hold it up. Took pliers pulled off hose clamps, used flat head screw driver to pop off clips. removed pump. Then did it all in reverse.
Piece of cake.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Washer is 29 years old. Found that tub spring hooks into a simple (non-reinforced) hole in the base frame, and it had worn the hole through through the edge of the frame (key hole style). Due to age and low cost of parts, ordered all suspension springs, brackets, & pads. Once they arrived, took the tubs out (first time for that), found that the suspension pads looked fine, but the wear pads showed a lot of wear and the front one was snapped in the middle, perhaps an after effect of the spring failure. From my lack of attention, initially tried to get front pad into the wrong set of holes, a bad fit; corrected. Simply drilled a near-by hole in the base frame for the tub spring.

While the tubs were out, took them outside and scrubbed them clean. Also cleaned agitator parts using bottle brushes. Followed the PartSelect videos and owner comments for procedures, methods. Found that some miss some important info, but if you watch others you can combine the info to find what you need re disassembly/assembly.

At one point while attempting to remove the outer tub, did not realize that the screw that holds the rear spring bracket to the tub also holds the tub to the suspension plate.

Took me most of a day for the whole process, and I ended up with pulled/spasmic muscles from all the bending over, mostly from cleaning parts I think. Very helpful to have the parts breakout drawings, videos, others' experience.

First I removed the fabric softener dispenser. I removed the inner cap seal and agitator retaining bolt. Then I firmly pulled up on the agitator to remove the complete agitator assembly. I replaced the inner cap seal and installed the new agitator bolt with rubber washer. I placed the new agitator assembly on the drive shaft and tightened the bolt. Lastly I installed the inner seal and the fabric softener dispenser. The total time spent was around 10 minutes.

unscrewed a bolt, pulled top agitator out and replaced parts and reinstalled.

Followed the video on the website. I removed the hoses from the pump rather than removing the pump as suggested in the video. Then separated the motor from the transmission and replaced the coupling; then reattached the motor and hoses. Lining up the washer cover and clamping it back on was the most trouble. But all in all, a easy repair.

Unplug electrical cord, disconnect water inlet hoses and drain line at rear panel. Move washer to garage or larger work area if necessary. Disconnect control panel from top of washer cabinet by removing the two screws at the front corners of the control panel. (The control panel can now be flipped up and back when you are ready to remove the cabinet assembly.) Disconnect the rear panel from cabinet assembly by removing attaching screws at bottom of rear panel (and along the vertical edges if any screws are installed there). Either slightly lift the rear panel up off of the two clip brackets that attach it to the rear top edge of the cabinet assembly, or if need be remove the clips from the cabinet slots. With the rear panel loose, slide the control panel assembly slightly towards the rear and up to disengage it from the cabinet slots, then tip it up and back, away from the cabinet. The cabinet assembly (with top attached) can now be tipped forward and away from washer to expose the internal workings. (It may be necessary to support the rear panel and/or control panel.) The water pump is attached to the front of the motor by two spring clips. Disconnect the two water lines from the pump, then remove the two spring clips. Pull the pump forward off of the shaft extending out of the motor. Install the new pump, then assemble the washer in reverse order. (I was unsure where the leak originated on my washer so I completely removed the rear panel which entailed disconnecting from it the electrical cord fitting, drain and input water fixtures and various other brackets. Pump replacement can be accomplished without completely removing the back panel.)

I tried to remove the outer console to get to the tub wear pads easier. This proved difficult for me for some reason. So I tipped the machine on its back at about a 45 degree angle. You will see the tripod support holding up the tub. The pads lie in between the bottom of the tub and on top of the tripod support . You won't be able to see the pads since the are on the top of the support, but you will see the two insert tabs of each pad sticking out. There are about 120 degrees apart from each other. I pushed up on the tub and slipped the piece of wood in between the tub and tripod support close to the pad. Taking a screwdriver and hammer I punched out the wear pad insert tabs. You can replace the old pad with the new one by using some force with your hands. Some pop right in and some you need to use a little leverage, maybe with the piece of wood you used to hold up the tub. Be careful not to get the pads greasy, keep clean as possible. Worked great.

Coupler is design to break when washer is overloaded or out of balance. Saves the motor from being burned out. Very easy repair. Unhook washer hoses and electrical plug...tip washer on side if there is no bottom to washer instead of removing side panels. Unhook clamps to water pump using flathead screwdriver. Water pump comes off without unhooking either of the two hoses. Remove 2 electrical connections and two clamps from motor using socket and screwdriver. Motor pulls out very easy...make sure you are holding motor so it does not drop onto floor. Remove motor mounting plate with socket. Remove old coupling using stubby flat screwdriver from both motor and transmission shafts. Install new coupling on transmission by placing a large socket onto plastic piece of new coupling and tapping lightly with hammer until flush with shaft. Install rubber piece of coupling...tap new plastic piece onto motor shaft using socket and hammer. Reinstall motor mount. Turn motor shaft so coupling pieces are aligned. Reverse order to reinstall motor and pump. I tilted the tub slightly when reinstalling the motor and pump as it is a tight fit...just be patient during this step.

The last step in this process is to go tell your wife that she in fact is NOT getting the new $2000 front loading washer and dryer set she saw at Lowes because you just fixed her washer for $20 including shipping.

It really is an easy fix...takes longer to unhook and move the washer than to replace part. Thank You Partselect for your excellent website and speedy shipping of product.

Although this was listed as 'a bit difficult' and talking a bit longer than normal, this was because the agitator cap had leaked, and over time the agitator bolt had become completely rusted such that a socket simply couldn't fit. Due to the tight confines, I also could not get a needle-nose vise-grip to hold on to the nut, so attempted to drill out the bolt. This ended up being a problem, but it turns out that drilling AROUND the edge of the bolt and through the edge of the plastic allowed me to remove the top of the agitator, which then allowed a normal pair of vise-grips to be used to remove the bolt. Once the bolt is removed, everything simply fell into place, and the overall job 'should' have only taken a couple of minutes and been 'really easy', except for that rusted-out bolt.

After reading other repair stories I did it like they said. I disconnected all the hoses and drained as much water as I could. The top came apart easily with a regular screwdriver, a 1/2 in drive with extension, and a 14 or 15mm deep socket. The spanner nut came off easiest with several short, quick blows (punch and hammer, counterclockwise). In my case a good wack seemed to be soaked up by the wash tub springs. Be careful not to chip the tub.

I laid the washer, front down, onto a couple a 2x6's. I supported between the tub and body with small 2x4 scraps. The motor/trans/pump came off easily after disconnection the 2 hoses (towels handy) and wiring. After the 3 screws, and some wiggling, the assembly slid out nicely. The coupler came out after snapping the springs off to remove the pump and motor. A 1/4 nut driver and regular screwdriver assisted. Watch how the pump comes off. You might want to mark its orientation with a marker or something. Make sure you get the new coupler on all the way with some taps on the CENTER where the shaft is. Reassemble in the reverse order. You'll know why I suggested marking the water pump.

Watch the order/orientation of the springs, clips, and washer. The clips came off with a screwdriver and pliers. It's always nice to have a rag on them when removing, they like to shoot off and land in the spot that's hardest to find, like under the dryer. My clutch was assembled with the right spring and slid right on. Don't forget about the plastic washer, snap it in good. The plastic piece still on the washer was simple. I opened up a nose pliers and put it on each side of the clip then gave it a hit. It came off with minimal effort and didn't spin on the shaft like pushing on one side with a screwdriver.

During reassembly I put a very light film of grease on the shaft. That washer with the tabs gave me trouble at first. I put a good film of grease on the side with the tabs to hold it in place, with the tabs down, in the clip. Otherwise when sliding the assembly back together it comes loose and you won't get the motor/trans all the way in. Then it all has to come back out and you'll wonder what the heck is keeping the transmission from seating in all the way. You might even get it all together, figuring the motor or tub has to turn to get it to seat right. You may even try running a no clothes load and get stuck with a tub full of water. Ask me how I know.

Reverse everything to reassemble. Make sure you get the springs tight that hold the hoses on. I was worried about over tightening the plastic nut with a 1/2 drive. Run no-clothes load, large, hot with soap. I think tipping it over loosened some stuff that was stuck in between the tub and basket. No, it wasn't grease from the shaft, light film. Anyway, I'll waste a washer full of hot soapy water to avoid the, "Um..what's this on my new shirt".

I didn't mean for this to be so long winded, but I was leary about tackling this job at first. I know my way around the garage/cars, but never tried appliances before. I pictured it'd be apart for weeks and I'd have to call a repair man. Then the "I told you so" look would come. You all know what I mean. I just want to cover as much as possible and encourage others while having them avoid any troubles.

Used your exploded view of the area to determine the problem-found the broken part and reassembled following the drawing. I felt like a pro after a test and kept my wife happy. [only lost a few days waiting for the parts which arrived as expected]