CAE2745FQ1 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Followed detailed instructions which were supplied with the parts. It was easy and my machine is working great with no issues. Also I just didn’t get the main drive pulley, all new parts came for the bottom end, great service and excellent parts.

W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit

Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.

When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.

Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.

Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.

First need to remove cap on Agitator. Inside there is a washplate bolt. Remove bolt. Old Agitator will slide up. Pull washer off stem. Clean grooved stem very well. Use some sort of lubricant on stem. Slide new Agitator on to stem. Part will be very snug as metal and plastic do not mix well. (Lubricant needed) Use board to lay flat on top. Gently tap with mallet until fully seated. Install new bolt. Run test wash. (Helps clean wash tub from any foreign substances.)

I drained the machine and pulled it away from the wall.Then I disconnected the drain hose and removed the back panel.Next,I removed the three screws holding the pump in place and disconnected the power plug from the motor.I then removed the short drain hose from the pump.Installation was the opposite of the removal sequence,and the machine worked fine right after I was done.The new part was identical the the old one,and the job was a snap.

Removed two screws to remove guard. Two screws to remove another part with wires. Pulley nut was already missing. Component was twist locking tabs.

Watch video on the site and the insulation will be easy and take about 30 min.

First you should take the proper safety precautions. Disconnect the appliance from the source of power and ensure you are grounded to avoid any potential hazards.

Check if any breakers flipped and if not, test the VAC from the outlet using a multimeter. If the breaker was not flipped and you are seeing 120-125 VAC from the outlet, proceed to next steps.

Disconnect appliance from source of power. Using a Torx security bit, unscrew the top left and right screws on the overlay cover. Lift overlay cover up and out to expose the PCB and connectors. Plug the appliance back into a source of power and check if the diagnostic LED on the PCB is on or off. If off, you will most likely need to replace the main control. At this point, take a picture of the main control and take note of where everything is plugged in.

Using a multimeter on VAC setting, test the incoming power supply to see if it matches what you tested on the outlet. If you are seeing 120-125 VAC the main control is getting power but a component or numerous components may have failed. If you have not repaired PCB components, it would be best to replace the entire control.

Disconnect power once again. Disconnect all connectors and pressure hose. Move those around so you have ample room to remove the main control. Unscrew the fastener screws holding the main control in place using a socket wrench. Lift main control up and slightly to the left. Place new main control into the unit and insert the screws you just removed. Be sure that the selector knob rod on the backside of the main control matches the position of the old main control or you may run into issues getting the new main control set in place.

Reconnect all connectors and the pressure hose following the picture you took previously. Push in enough where you hear the fasteners click. Check all wiring to ensure everything is connected properly and nothing became dislodged. Put the overlay cover back onto the console and insert the Torx security screws. Plug machine into power source and turn the selector knob to see if the LEDs light up. If so, you now have a functioning washing machine! Anytime you are working on an appliance you should always consult the service technicians guide located within the machine itself. The location will vary by manufacturer but on this unit it was behind the front panel. It requires you to take apart the machine to a certain extent. That allows you to find the proper diagnostic testing methods that should be followed prior to running a load.

For this model you can place the cycle selector knob at the 12 o'clock position. Rotate left, rotate right, rotate right, rotate left, rotate right. That will enter diagnostic mode and all status LED's will activate except for lid locked. This has to be done fairly quick otherwise you will not enter diagnostic mode. Now we need to enter calibration mode which is indicated by only having the rinse LED activated. Turn the cycle selector knob left and then right which will select different diagnostic tests until you land on the calibration mode test. Once there you can press that start button to begin the calibration. Let it run through the full test and now you are ready to begin running regular loads.

Watched video and followed instructions. Removed rods from top cups, laid washer on its side and pulled them out. Put new rods thru, stood washer up and hooked them in. Was pretty easy, tube heavy but I'm 52 and I did it myself.
My only problem is there's no springs anywhere attaching rods to tub and I cannot find any info on 1. IF I need them 2. What kind I need. I sent email to partselect last week inquiring and still waiting to hear.

I turned off and disconnected the water lines (have a bucket ready) and tipped the washer on its back. I followed along with the provided video that was super helpful. Disconnecting, moving the washer, and reconnecting everything took longer than the repair. Very satisfied with this repair!

Unplug unit. Remove back panel. Disconnect drain hose using pliers to squeeze hose clamp. Tilt washer forward to access drain pump. Remove three screws on the pump. Unplug wire connector. Install new pump. Plug in the wiring connector. Reconnect hose. Reinstall back panel. Super easy fix!

I simply followed Steve's instructions on video. Very easy repair. Washer works great, no jumping or vibrating.

Followed video provided by Part Select. Video made it look easier than it was but was very thorough and I was able to accomplish repair in less than an hour! The agitator before repair would bounce up and down when I pressed hard and let go. After repair it was much tighter!! Evidently this is a common problem with this design of Whirlpool washers!

followed video instruction that came with part. Previously watched youtube video (there are several, the low production videos are well worth viewing over the professional types). It was a breeze, other than the videos saying one person could do all four. When you get to the last rod, it is more difficult to lift the tub to insert the final rod in the round holder. I asked my wife for assistance.

I used a jack to lift the tub and unhooked the rods and replaced them. Works great.

The info. was really helpful