MHN30PDCXW0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Removed top of washer. Removed top front panel. Removed old front panel clamp. Removed front door panel. Removed old tub clamp. Then removed torn tub seal. Installed new tub seal. Needed two sets of hands to install new tub seal. Pretty tight installing the new tub seal around drum lip. Might be a good idea to heat up or let your new tub seal soak in water prior to installation. Once tub seal was installed, I installed new tub clamp then re-installed the door switch. After that, I put the front door panel back on. Then tightened down the door switch. Finally, I installed the top front panel and then the top of the washer.

Unplugged the washer from electric outlet. Removed front cover by using nut driver to remove the two screws. Drained the water from the washer into a pan by loosening the cap on the filter. Removed the two hoses by compressing clamps with pliers. Unplugged the electric wire from old pump. Used screw driver to pry rubber feet of old pump loose from washer floor panel. Set old pump aside. Installed new pump using a little dish soap to help attach rubber feet to washer. Attached the two hoses using pliers. Plugged electric wire into new unit. Ran washer to check for leaks. Replaced front cover using nut driver on the two screws.

There is a video on this site that shows how to do the install. It is perfect and accurate. This pump is one of the easiest components to fix on this washer and it will save you money to do it yourself. Tech has told me twice to buy a new washer. This did the job. Make sure to take the time to fully drain the machine prior to doing this and make sure that you unplug your machine. To drain, just unscrew the cover on the front of the pump. If you start disconnecting hoses without draining you could have a mess on your hands depending on how much water is still in the washer. Use a shallow pan or bucket if your machine is on a pedestal. I have a floor drain in front of mine so I use a piece of foil to channel the water into it. After that, just do the install like the video. Also make sure to examine the reconnected hoses after you get done to make sure that they are solidly attached to the pump and that the base of the pump is tightly secured to the bottom of the machine. You have to secure the feet of the pump from the bottom which is why the video recommends putting blocks under the washer to have access to the bottom. Pump is great. Everything works well.

Replaced the pump. Continued to get the F9E1 error. Removed and cleaned the drain pipe between the drum and the pump. Problem resolved.

I followed the steps from online videos to determine where the leak was coming from (cleaned the pump filter, still leaking; checked gasket and inlet hoses).

Finally, I discovered a wet area and cut on the drum-to-pump hose. When I removed the hose, I found that the culprit was a credit card that had broken into shards and slit the side of the hose. I was happy to see it was from the previous owners, which meant it wasn't my fault!

I did have a hard time removing the clamps (double-wire "rotor clip" or "spring clamps", according to Google) holding the hose to the drum and pump. This became a problem when replacing the hose as well. I was not strong enough to squeeze the ends together to loosen the clamp.

Getting the old hose off was easy enough, as was putting the hose back on. The problem was clamping it back on, as I mentioned.

I tried using zip ties, but this was a disaster! I tested it using a rinse and spin cycle, and the zip tie seemed to hold. However, the hose slid off during the first full cycle I ran and dumped at least 15 gallons of water on the floor. Clean up was not fun!

My recommendation (and what I finally went with) is to use hose clamps with the small screw that lets you tighten the clamp with a screw driver. I used that on both the connection to the drum and the connection to the pump and I've had no issues since.

Overall, it's a quick fix once you have the hose replacement and the right parts. If I'd gotten the hose clamps right away, I could have been done in 30 minutes.

Hope this helps and good luck with your repairs!

Unplugged washer , used shop vac to drain water through drain hose on washer. Removed both hoses from old pump. Removed electric plug, removed 2 screws from bottom of the pump. Then reverse the process.

Son-in law did the work he was finished in about 20 minutes the repair guy wanted $249.00 to take out and put in. PLUS part.

After further investigation I realized that the original dispenser hose from the soap bin to the inner tip was the cause of the leak. Before this repair, I replaced the bellows. And as part of that replacement process you have to remove the washer dispenser hose from the inner tub so that I could complete the bellows installation. However when I put everything back together the old washer dispenser hose was leaking terribly. This was fixed easily with a new hose and an 1-1 3/4 inch hose clamp. I found an installation video that allows you to come from the top down to replace this hose but for my model of washer and because the drier was stacked on top, I took apart the front of the washer since I learned from a different video how to do this in order to install the bellows. No more leaking at all with the new hose.

This repair is something even the most casual DIY'er could accomplish. What made this even easier for me was the fact that my washer was on a pedestal so accessing the 1/4" screws were extremely easy. There is no need to tilt or lift the washer. Just open the drawer and all three screws are visible. It also made draining the water out of the washer very convenient. The video perfectly describes how to accomplish the repair and allowed me to diagnose the problem by taking off the panel, opening the trap door and allowing the water to drain into a small trashcan until all the water is removed. I could physically see that the impeller was detached from the motor and found the culprit that caused the problem - a small vile of eye drops... From there, ordered the pump, two days later, replaced it with the new and I swear the new pump must be stronger than the original because towels come out near dry after a spin cycle. Very satisfying repair!

Pretty straight forward , It is a tight work are especially laying on your stomach. To make installation easier I recommend buying a 3-4 inch hose clamp instead of trying to use the old pinch style clamp. You will only need a zip tie if you reuse the existing clamps. remember to remove the plastic ball from the old rubber hose into the new hose.

Removed top and front lower panels remove door panel.Remove ring from boot seal don’t damage seal.Replace hose,reassemble.Job is a lot easier if you purchase tool to re-install door ring seal.Tool is available from several sites on the net.

I followed the video that accompanied the parts order confirmation. The replacement of the two parts, bellows and hose, were pretty straightforward. The job took a little less than an hour with little aggregation.

Checked for 120 V AC at pump connector. It was present . Pump was hot. Ordered new pump. Changing the pump is a piece of cake. Just tilt machine back and rest on a brick. Remove 3 5/16th screws . Disconnect 2 hoses and 1 plug. Took 10 minutes tops. Back in business.

Only needed a pair of pliers for the clamps on the hoses connected to the pump. Removed the old pump ( no tools needed) and reinstalled the hoses. Works like a charm!

raised front of machine about 6 inchs bigest pain is getting water out after that its easy.open drain just a bit other wise it will pour out all over about 4 pots worth if its full