WTW5005KW0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Removed center cap, loosened center nut, pry lightly up on center plate and tap center nut. Center plate comes loose, remove nut, remove center plate. Pry lock clip out and remove, remove screw with electric impact (screw drive will work, but slower), remove drive hub. Install new drive hub (be sure to check screw hole alignment), install and tighten screws (be sure to follow a skip pattern and bring it down even), install lock clip, install center plate, install and tighten nut, replace center cap. Done!

I unscrewed the top panel of the washer. I lifted up the top and used the pint scrapper to loosen up the lid switch and slid it out. I pulled the switch wiring harness out of the rear top of the washer. I slid the new lid switch and wiring harness back through the opening and secured the switch in place. Screwed it back in place. Took less than 15 minutes. I followed the instructions on the video, easy peasy lemon squeezy.

Our 5 year old Kenmore washing machine broke. The first symptom was that the clothes would come out completely wet. This was due to no spin cycle. The second symptom was that the washing machine had little to no agitation. The lid still locked shut, there was no odor, and you could hear the machine running.

In the event a machine does not agitate or spin, the diagnostics on this website will lead you to believe that drive hub assembly or shift actuator is the problem. The drive hub assembly is by far the more common repair (the pieces are made of plastic and are designed to wear out). If you are torn, go with the drive hub kit repair. That's what it was.

There were some surprises after carefully watching the how to video. First, the agitator in my machine was very tall and required a socket wrench extension to reach the drive hub nut. This will require two sets of hands. Second, the drive hub nut was stuck to the point where I nearly gave up. WD-40 and degreaser did not work to loosen. I ended up pouring a half teaspoon of powdered soap onto the stuck nut to get more grip on the nut. This, along with two sets of hands, got it loose. Third, calibrating machine was barely touched on in the video but this is extremely difficult, the instructions that come with the part were insufficient, and the videos on the internet are not that good. In the end, I'm not sure that the machine ever calibrated. In essence, the machine is re-calibrated by turning the switch in a specific sequence of right to left. Lights are then supposed to flash. This never did anything. I ended up opening and shutting the lid 10 times in 10 seconds as this was allegedly a way to recalibrate.

Note: 2018 and later washing machines suck because of California and the federal government rules and pressure to make them "green". Well, they don't work that well anymore as a result. Keep this in mind when you vote.

I watched the supplied video when I purchased the parts

Replaced the mixer valve . It was a few screws, and an instruction video from YouTube.

screw driver and a rachet and socket took it off and put the new one on . no problem follow the direction that comes with it .

easy install 30-45min and a reset and it was done.

I watched the instructions on line, and followed them. Completed the parts change with out any problems, but that wasn't everything I had to do to make the washer to work again. I had to clear all the fault codes that were on the machine. Then the washer started working in all the cycles.

Remove the center cover with a screwdriver then loosen the 7/16 bolt with an impact driver socket ccw to remove completely biggest issue is removing bottom cover tried pick tools only thing that was succesful was some dawn dishsoap on the center bolt area to loosen enough to lift up the cover replace the hub part that had worn spline grooves remember to use blue loctite on the 7/16 bolt before re-installing cw to tighten bolt

My spin cycle was running, but spinning slowly and not drying my clothes. The agitator spun quickly like normal, but the basket did not spin fast. It seemed like something was slipping. I checked the belt, but it seemed fine and it was less than a year old. I was afraid that the transmission was going, but there wasn't any grinding sound of gears. Luckily the hub part description said that this could fix the slow Spin cycle. Over all the repair was easy, but pulling the agitator off was very difficult. I've got a strong grip and patience and after about 10 - 15 mintues of yanking on the agitator it came off. Don't try to use pliers as it will damage the plastic agitator. Replacing the hub drive and reassembly went very smoothly. The old hub drive wore out because it is plastic and connects to the metal drive shaft from the transmission. After years of torque, the hub will eventually strip out. Sooner depending on your usage and heavy duty cycles. In case you don't know, your machine might have the service manual in it on the inside of the body taped to the side. Mine helped me run through some troubleshooting steps and component tests to pinpoint to problem. Thanks Parts Select!

First had to take the top of the agitator off to expose the bolt down at the bottom of the agitator. Take a ratchet with 2 1/2 extensions to get bolt off had problems so I had to use impact gun. pull agitator straight up, was stuck a little bit, but once she giving her a few tugs, it popped off the hub. On top of the hub, there is a keyway. Use a straight screwdriver and tap it out sideways. Then remove six Phillips screws and the hub pulls out. Clean the splines really good before you put new hub in. Slide new hub in put six screws in. Tighten them down evenly. Put new keyway back in slide agitator back onto shaft. Bolt on,tighten down Bolt, put top agitator back on. Replacing shift actuator tilt washer up so you can get to the bottom side take a nut driver. There’s two screws on the shield remove them that exposes the shift actuator on the side of the transmission. Remove the harness there’s a clip you push and pull straight out and there’s two screws I believe they’re Phillips And it pulls straight down put new one up in there put the two screws back in make sure the plastic tab on the shift actuator went into the tab of the transmission replaced the wire harness, push it back in make sure it snaps in put shield back on,the two screws in,and you are ready. Once you have those parts back on, you have to reset the washer instructions in your manual. It tells you how to do it. you have to do this or your washer will not work properly.

Watch video on the site and the insulation will be easy and take about 30 min.

Unplug washer
Take back panel off
Un plug lid switch
Take screwdriver snap out switch
Snap in New switch
Plug it in
Replace back panel plug in washer
Wash

Getting to the actual hub is a bit difficult as it involves removing the accetuator and takes some time and patience, but when I tried to replace with a new hub, I found that the screws were stripped, so PartSelect walked me through the ordering process and helped me choose the exact size screws that I needed. Parts came quickly...I already had the hub waiting to be secured and the screws tightened easily. (We had tried using a similar size, but you REALLY need the whirlpool screws that go in there) No more spinning problems, and the machine is not jumping around anymore. Works just like before. This particular machine has to have this part replaced at least twice a year (luckily it's cheap),but saves us from having to buy a whole new machine. My son also told me that since I replace the part so often, best to replace the screws every other time as well.

W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit

Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.

When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.

Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.

Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.