46-2251-23-03 Tappan Washer - Instructions

removed all parts from trans shaft and replaced seal although had some difficulty removeing the agitator assembly due to age and mineral deposits but a little wd40 and tapping with a hammer helped

This appliance is being used in a third world country with no parts access. I discovered Partselect and easily found the schematic with parts listed. Needed parts were easily identified ordered online and received within 4 days in the US and in time to take on my day later flight outbound. The process was seamless and expeditious. Thank you Partselect!

The original inlet valve comes in from the rear and the replacement inlet valve mounts horizontally and this will not allow the use of the valve mounting plate and I needed to make a new plate so the supply hose could mount. After making the new plate and having the supply hose attach vertically, the system appears to be functioning properly. Having to make a new mounting plate was an unexpected adventure!

For the washer/Dryer combo, replacing water valve was easy, first you need to remove washer front panel and top lid, make sure that washer electrical is unplugged, turn off gas, turn off water valves.remove 1-screw holding water valve. reaching from top and using pliers remove retention clip holding hose. remove old water valve, there are two electrical connections for cold and hot water valves, make sure you mark them, remove them from old water valve. insert new water valve, connect hose and make sure that retaining clip is connected correctly.connect electrical wires. screw water valve into place from rear of washer. connect water hoses. before connecting panel and lid, turn on water valves and observe if there is any water leaks.

removed front cover pushed in tensioner by hand walked belt off pulleys tilted belt removed lock ring pulled tensioner off noticed right rear lower tub brace broke at spot weods drilled out spot welds nut and bolted rear brace put springs back on base and installed belt works like new and saved myself from replacing lower washer tub frame so 70.00 and she up and running again

Took off back of washer. Control panel and top. Disconnected hot and cold water inlet hose. Pulled offwire leads. Unscrewed valve from washer. installed new valve. Reconnected wire leads. connected hoses. put top back on. put back of washer and control panel back on. Reconnected water. Done. Nothing too difficult. just a little time consuming. Space was an small issue in the laundry room.

my husband took off all the parts and put the new ones on in about 45 min only to find that the motor was burned out and the motor is discontinued but all the other parts are available!!!!!!!

The part was fine,except for one problem. The screw holes in the part were too small for the sheet metal screws. After several minutes of trying to get the screws to turn, I got a small round file and enlarged the holes until the screws fit. Luckily for me, I've had to do things like that before. Otherwise, the installation was straightforward. And the washer no longer leaks!

This repair couldn't have been easier. I went to the website, looked up my part and ordered it - this all took longer than the repair! I followed the super easy video on the site walking me through the replacement step by step. I probably would have taken less time, but I made the mistake of propping the top of the washing machine up too high, which popped a suction hose that prevents the tub from overfilling, which unfortunately, I didn't realize. 10 minutes, I started to do a small test load. Luckily, our laundry is right off of the kitchen, so after 5 minutes of filling, I stopped eating dinner to ask my wife how long it took to fill. At that, we could hear the water running on to the laundry room floor. Another trip to the internet and sure enough, attaching that hose fixed her right up. Thanks Partselect! Couldn't have made my life easier - much to the chagrin of my wife who was searching feverishly through the paper for a replacement!

Took off the front panel and changed the belt. Putting on the front panel took longer then changing the belt.

did the repair from the video that you had supplied for me. Thank you so much for making this one repair that was so easy and for your great customer service.

Took front off and put the new belt on. Then put the front back on. At my Age 70 yrs did good and saved $124.00 Which I paid that 9 months ago.

Used flat head screw driver to pry up the top. Removed front cover. Pushed tension idler pulley back to release tension on the belt. Removed old belt. Put new belt on motor pulley and idler pulley. Started one edge on main pulley and slowly rotated main pulley until the belt popped in place. Tested on spin cycle. Replaced front cover and top. Unfortunately, this didn't stop the noise...turned out a shipping screw was still in place. Removed the shipping screw and voila! no noise. It's always the little things that get ya.

I used a flat-head screw driver to lift the main lid up off the washer to get to the washer lid safety switch..Unplug the plug from the electrical outlet. Removed the 4 wires from the switch, and removed 2 screws to remove the old switch..Then install the new safety switch in reverse order.

Watched the handy-dandy video, removed the defective part, waited for delivery, installed the new part and was back washing another load (minus the wet floor) in less than 10 minutes! Just one catch, I am a 56yo female with nominal hand strength, so technically, I had to recruit the help of a (stronger) person to tighten-up those self-tapping screws. I didn't feel so weak when I noticed that he had some difficulty as well. LOL! Ladies, don't be shy asking for help-I even tried the power drill with no success. Excellent video! Aside from the self-tapping screws, my grand-daughter could have managed this repair!