SWF261WH Speed Queen Washer - Instructions

Remove screws at lint filter, open top of dryer. Remove hex screw holding top of element casing. Slide dryer away from wall, remove 5 hex heads from rear panel, exposing element casing. Remove two screws holding sensors, and move aside. Lift dryer casing slightly and pull towards you to disengage from rear panel. Turn over and remove srew holding element to casing at bottom. Slide element out, and unplug two wires, noting position of each wire. Reverse procedure to reinstall element. Dryer works better than it has for years !

Fairly straight forward except for hidden 5/16 self tap screw coming from back side of heat ducting that is welded to drier. You have to remove this by feel and restart by feel which may be difficult for some. This screw holds the element to the heat duct. It has to come out

Unplugged dryer. Removed back panel from dryer. Using needlenose pliers, disconnected wires going into heating element housing cover. They basically just unplug. You have to wiggle them a little with the pliers to get them unplugged. The housing cover is the large metal piece on the right side of the dryer. Kind of looks like a catalytic converter from a car. Popped off housing cover by putting a large screw driver behind it and gently prying forward. The top came loose from the dryer and I then lifted it up off the two tabs holding it at the bottom. I then unscrewed the one screw holding the element to the bottom of housing cover. I slid the element out, inserted the new element, put the screw back in place and then put the housing unit back in place over the two tabs. I replugged all of the wires into the housing unit, replaced the back cover on the dryer and plugged the dryer into the wall receptacle. I turned the dryer on and it heated up right away. I have since dried several loads and it is working perfectly. By the way, I am a 65 year old housewife. If I can do it, anyone can.
Mary McCarthy
Jacksonville, FL

According to previously submitted instructions. toughest task was replacing the tiny screw at the bottom of the heating element housing. Felt good to plug it in, start it up and voila, heat. thank you for the part.

I removed the back panel and took the 2 screws out at the lint screen, lifted the top back so I could remove the bracket holding the heating element can. After this was completed I was able to remove the heating element and install the new one, I had to cut the old connectors off and wire nut the new connector together. After this part was completed I reinstaaled the heating element can, secured the top back down,reinstalled the the back panel and pluged it in and wa-la it worked. I also wanted you to know that your prices are about $ 7.00 less than a few of the other part sites I checked on line and one of the sites even said that the part I needed was no longer available. I am sure glad that I kept looking and found your site because you saved me from buying a new dryer, thank you and if I get asked where to get parts I will recommend PARTSSELECT.COM.
Fred

Located heating element at PartSelect easily.Worked perfectly

Disassembled washer as per directions with seal kit. Removed inner tub. Cut both tub shaft bearing in half; punched out from outter tub. Installed new bearings using .5 inch threaded rod, washer and bolts. Installed new seal on inner tub shaft. Installed inner tube. Re-assembled washer.

ordered and replaced heater element, did not fix the problem so ordered thermal fuse and cycling thermostat when it arrived installed them still did not work. Went to the next item on list thermal cutoff kit ordered it, when it arrived installed and BINGO!!! It works... $107.00 later a dryer that works!!!!!

Replaced the heating element. Everything copacetic.

Took off the back panel of the dryer. Removed the screw holding the drying element in only to discover it would not fit out the bottom of the case holding it because it was too close to the bottom of the dryer. Had to take off the top of the dryer and remove the casing, remove the element, replace it and put the casing back. Not too difficult, only two wires and one screw. Did make a couple of rookie mistakes making me backtrack and redo a few things but nothing major.

it was easy to replace the element

Removed vent hose. Removed back of dryer. Raised top lid of dryer. My model only had a half removable back. Removed screw and spring clip from top of heater chute. Removed wires from heater element. Pulled back top of heater chute. Removed heater chute. Removed screw holding heater element. Removed element. Slid new element in chute. Replaced screw. Replaced chute on dryer. Replaced spring clip and screw. Reattached heater wires. Set dryer top down in place. Plugged dryer in. Turn dryer on to make sure it was working. Replaced back plate on dryer. Reattached dryer hose. You are finished

checked element leads with voltmeter (set on ohms) - no continuity. - biggest problem is that the can over the element is screwed in from the back - you have to take out the lint filter and unscrew the two screws beneath it then pry open the dryer top - then you can unscrew the one screw holding the clamp on the can. This seems to be a feature added just so people would call out for repair - I can't imagine how it would have been quicker or easier to manufacture it this way. The can just pulls out and is hinged from the bottom - you may have to jerk on it after you remove the clamp. (pull from the top). One screw holds the element in. That is it for the replacement. Now the stupid part - check to see if the exhaust vent is clogged. I pulled several cubic feet of lint out and didn't bother to put a mask on and almost choked to death. I recommend you to get a dust mask before cleaning a tube longer than 8 feet.

un plug power, pull out from wall,remove 5 screws and remove back cover. check heater element for curcuit found to be open. check the 2 temperature units on the heater housing, both ok. Remove the 2 flag connectors on the heating element, 2 wires each on temperature switches.remove upper heater case screw and bracker, lift and slide heater housing out of the dryer. Remove 1 screw holding heater element in the housing. compare old and new element, being the same. follow reverse steps and re assemble.

I watched the video on utube first, and thought this is a breeze. I'm older and so getting down on my but in the back was what I thought was going to be the hardest part. I removed the screws that held the back plate. Once inside the back I removed the plugs to the heating element with plyers, and the little round thing with nut driver. Ok, what now the video showed where the element just lifted out, mine didn't it was totally encased in the housing. So I felt around to see what was holding it and found a little screw on the backside of the housing, which took some work, and the head lamp so I could see, finally after all that I got the little screw out. The housing for the element still would not come out. so I went back to the video, no help there because the housing on the video just came out and went together about halfway up the housing, mine didn't it was just one piece, so I came here to parts select site and read what other people had said regarding their dryer. I found the information I needed. Thank goodness. I removed the two screws in the front of the lent trap, opened the top of my dryer removed the little Hex nut that held the housing in place, then I went back and removed the heating housing, replaced the element. It was kinda tight, but it fit. I went back to the front put the hex nut back on replace the two nuts in the lent trap closed the top of my dryer, sat back down and replaced that little round thermostate thingy, plugged in the wires to the heating element replaced the back plugged it in and Oh Yeah I had heat. The experience demanded a "High Five" , I felt like a million bucks- this old lady did it herself and the hardest part was having the correct information and getting up and down off the floor. Thanks for all the help!