SWTH20QN Speed Queen Washer - Instructions

Followed video on PartsSelect website, they made it real easy.

I began by removing the two screws at the lower part of the front panel. After removing the panel I was able to access and remove the broken switch which was located on the front panel. I popped out the old switch and replaced it with the new one, reattached the wires and put the front panel on and the jod was done.

Installed the new part. Worked great!

Just follow the video. The hardest part is getting the top to disengage from the clips.

The door switch was easy to replace. It is located in the right bottom of the door and I popped out with my fingers. Follow the wire connectors from the old switch and remounted back in.

Unscrewed front panel. Pulled off unbroken wire connecter and popped switch and put new one in. Replaced front panel.

Removed old hose by sqeezing clamps and sliding off of fittings. Placed clamps on new hose. Slid hose on fittings. Repositioned clamps over end of hose. Job done.

Found out that these switches go from time to time and are usually the culprit when the washer won't operate. Opened the cabinet facing. Warning: there are plenty of YouTube videos on opening Maytag washers. None helped me with this model. I ended up finding the screws to open near the floor on front. Once it's opened, just replace the faulty switch, reconnect and you're in business. Getting the washer opened was about the hardest part of this repair. Total cost: Less than $30.

Disassembled washer as per directions with seal kit. Removed inner tub. Cut both tub shaft bearing in half; punched out from outter tub. Installed new bearings using .5 inch threaded rod, washer and bolts. Installed new seal on inner tub shaft. Installed inner tube. Re-assembled washer.

We did not have instructions on how to remove broken agitator. Looking online, we found easy instructions but found it difficult to remove the agitator even though it was supposed to be an easy task.
Our particular model was supposed to "pop" off with little resistance. Not so!
It took some stong muscle and will power to remove the part but putting the new agitator on was simple.

Since the agitator and bell housing seperated as once piece from the drive shaft I didn't have to remove them and the schematic showed how the agitator snapped on to the bell housing and the parts I needed for the fix. The new seal went on with no problem, I just used some of the supplied grease on the tight spots. The hardest part was attaching the bell housing. It came to within an inch of the top of the shaft with no problem with a rubber hammer. But the top screw shroud broke when I tried to hammer it the rest of the way using a wood dowel and a block of wood. I couldn't even get the threads of the supplied screw to even touch the drive shaft. So I bought a longer (1 inch) cap screw from the hardware store and added a washer and suplied ring. After torqing it to 5 ft-lbs instead of the 10-20 the plastic beneath the screw was looking kind of thin and stressed and I was afraid of it breaking through or the screw snapping off in the shaft, so I left it alone and used some silicone caulk to seal in the plug that goes in on top of the screw since the side of the shroud broke off. I slipped on the agitator and am testing a load now as we speak. If I get ten more years out of the washer it will definitely be worth the $100 in parts and shipping !

First - I did some research on line as to the possible problem with this dryer.
I had already taken the front apart before, so I knew what was needed to remove the door and front.
Remove the 2 screws that hold the dryer door in place with a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the two screws on the opposite side of the door also. Place the door out of the way. The front panel of the dryer now tilts forward. The front panel sits on two clips, tilt forward and lift out of place. The door switch has two prongs that hold it in place, pinch the prongs and the switch slides out. Disconnect the two wires on the switch and connect the wires to the new switch. The new switch slides into place. I tested the new switch before I put it all back together. Took me no longer than 15 minutes.

I opened the bottom and found the belt had broke in half. i ordered a new belt from Maytag online and found a you tube video that showed exactle how to change it. the only thing i had to do afterwards was tighten the tensioner.eazy pezy!

Installing the new switch was a snap. With the dryer unplugged, open the top using a putty knife to release the 2 clips - one on each side. Lift the top and support it to stay open. Next, note the wire color and location for each of the 3 wires. Remove each wire from its prong on the bad switch by gripping the connector with pliers and pulling off. Next remove the bad switch by squeezing the tabs on the sides of the switch to release it. The switch removes to the front of the dryer. Install the new switch in the same method and reconnect the wires as before making sure the colors go back on the same prongs. I had to replace one of the connectors with a larger one (that came with the switch) since one of the prongs on the new switch was larger than the orginal (bad) switch. To do this, I cut the old connector off, stripped the end of the wire, and crimpted on the new connector. I had to be careful not to waste too much wire since there was very little slack to work with.

Too simple to describe.