SWT620WA Speed Queen Washer - Instructions

With the right tools this job, should not be that complicated, to me the hardest part was finding the right tools, 1/4 inch small rachet ( the smallest the better,) with a 2 inch extension and a Torx head socket, also known as a 6 lobe,(T25 thats the # that is on the socket) also you need a flat head screw driver,or a 1/4 socket to take the cover off.. and of course the right belt, you might also need a flash light, watch out for spiders, specially black widows, i found a few, First you take the cover off, it should be the easiest part, then, put the rachet,( the smallest the better) with the 2 inch extension and the socket, to take out the water pump, it should be white, it should be only three screws, take your time, when taking out the screws hold them so they don't fall, in to the whasher, it happened to me and it took me a long time to find one of the screws, once you take the 3 screws move the water pump aside it should just drop down from the shaft that drives it, it is not necessary to take the hoses off the pump, put the new belt in place, make sure place it trough the tensioner, there is a guide in the AMANA web site when if you are not so sure, on how the belt goes, once you place the belt, put the water pump back, put the three screws back, put the cover back, run the machine trough a new cycle, Reason why is because i try to run it trough the spin cycle only after i put it together and the belt wouldn't spin, only the motor,Don't forget to unplug the power from the wall before staring all this, I hope this was of some help to you,

Removed lower front cover--two screws. Removed motor/pump assembly after disconnecting electric and water hoses. Seperated pump from motor. Installed belt, then reconnected pump to motor. Reinstalled motor/pump assembly, while rotating belt onto drum pulley. Reinstalled eclectric and water hoses. Buttoned front cover back up. Done.

My Amana washing machine burned up a second belt in about three weeks. Prior to that, the spin cycle was very loud. Online research revealed the problem was most likely the hub bearing. I ordered a new bearing, belt and hub and seal kit. The repair is a difficult one as the parts have been on the tranmission shaft many years with the mounting corrosion and mineral build up. I was able to pull the agitator off with no problem. The drive bell would have been easier to pull had I used a gear puller but did not own one. I use two crow bars to lift it off the shaft and I knew I'd be replacing it anyway so was not concerned about damaging it although I didn't. The most difficult part to remove was the large hex nut. I didn't want to purchase the tool to remove it so I used an open end adjustable wrench adn a hammer to remove it. However it took many hours of soaking the nut in sprayed on WD-40 to loosen it. For a while I thought it wasn't going to budge. Oh and btw, the nut comes off counterclockwise on this model. This is important. Other makes of washers have left handed threads, requiring clockwise removal, but this one does not. The hub assembly was pulled using the crow bar method. Again, it was going to be replaced anyway. The lint filter was cleaned and reused. The remainder of the dissassembly went OK using the directions in the repair manual. http://www.scribd.com/doc/8677902/Amana-Top-Load-Washer-Service-Manual. Reassembly went fine using the repair manual accept that the new drive bell was much more difficult to drive onto the shaft than I thought it would be. I eventually got it on using my shop vac rigid tube to go around it and hammering on a block of wood placed on top of it. I also used this shop vac tube to seat the seal that goes on the shaft just before the drive bell. It was the perfect tool for it as I wasn't going to purchase the special tool suggested in the repair manual. I'd already purchased $185 in parts. The kits come with grease but not the anti seizure compound or the industrial sealant needed. The anti seisure compound can be purchased from an auto parts store. It's not expensive. The industrial sealant is expensive. After researching what it was and why it was needed, I took a chance on silicone sealant. I'm not suggesting it is a good substitute but my washer has not leaked after 5 loads. Plus the sealant is really a backup to the main seal that goes on the transmission shaft before the hub assembly. But I'm pleased overall with the parts and accompanying directions and the washer is working great, spinning quietly. This is not an easy repair. It takes patience and a place to work on it. Frankly, with other things to do as well as go to work, it took me four days to complete, mostly due to the difficulty in removing the large hex nut. It might be worth investing in the removal tool if you're unsuccessful using home tools. Good luck.