SWT120WA Speed Queen Washer - Instructions

Taking the hub out was a promblem because, with a puller it did not come out. It broke off while pulling out we had to drill it
out had to brake off.You need a 1 1/2 inch deep socket with a impact wrench. It was a hassel but got done. I replaced the whole seal kit and it is still leaking it leaks from the bottom of the tub. It leaks worse when it has a heavy load I dont know what to do.Need help.

Removed the damaged legs, replaced with parts from this site and leveled the washer .

Followed video on PartsSelect website, they made it real easy.

checked for unbalanced load. still banging. removed lower front panel by removing 2 screws. then removed front top panel- 2 more screws. turned unit on spin cycle to see what was going on. this is dangerous as many moving parts are exposed, so keep everything clear. banging was the tensioner slamming back and forth. unpluged washer from outlet and felt along the belt to find part of the 'v' shaped balt had come part, leaving a gap in the "v". ordered part.when i got the part, i removed 4 larger bolts that held the motor, pully, and pump. i unplugged the wires for the motor, and removed the belt from the bsket side pulley assembly by slipping it off and under the shaft. i removed the torx screws that held the pump on the motor and removed the belt. PAY ATTENTION to how the belt was in between the pully and pump assembly or you will have to remove and redo it. reassemble the pump over the belt, pully, motor, and put the belt on the drum side pully before bolting it to the washing machine. it is fairly heavy and tight, so you might need help. this was not hard and you do not need to take apart the washer except for the two front panels and the motor assembly. i just pulled the unit away from the wall and tipped it back to access the inside. take your time and pay attention, and make sure it is not plugged into the wall and you should be fine.

Screw broke lose in agitator from drive bell stripped (plastic) for transmission gear. Received new Drive Bell and had to lightly cut out old from Agitator housing with saws all, cleaned years of soap build up on steel spline with wire grinder, lubed the Drive Bell inter and pounded on to spline gear with rubber mallet, I thought a bit too much force but what the heck I landed to the same bearing point as before. Work Out Great.

Replacing the spin belt is like the others have said, but I'll add a couple of cautions. Don't try to separate the driven pulley on the water pump from the pump shaft. Instead, separate the water pump from the driven pulley. And, make sure you know the routing of the belt for reassembly, because it has to go between the correct legs that support the water pump. Get it wrong and you'll have to start all over. I pulled the machine away from the wall by about 18" and put a block of wood under the front of the machine to raise only the front to 9" or 10" off the floor which made it easier to do the work. Try and take a digital photo of the belt routing from a couple of angles before beginning. Don't forget to route the belt around the tensioner pulley.

Removed front lower panel, removed 4 bolts holding motor, removed water hoses draining water into a pot, unplugged electrical connector on motor, removed motor, removed water pump from motor (torex bit), separated pump from motor. installed belt reassembled washer in reverse order. To my surprise, it worked and was easy.

Removed old hose by sqeezing clamps and sliding off of fittings. Placed clamps on new hose. Slid hose on fittings. Repositioned clamps over end of hose. Job done.

Basically you have to remove the drive motor and pump (in that order). This allows you to get the belt around the drive motor pully wheel. It took me a few tries to get the belt routed right. I assume that if you know what you are doing you can complete this in under an hour. It took me about 4 hours, though - cause I didn't know what I was doing at first. Hehe.

Hope this helps.

tilt the washer back removed bottom panal .removed bracket holding motor took motor out removed 3 scewer holding pump. took belt off put new one on. about 45 mins pretty easy job

Found out that these switches go from time to time and are usually the culprit when the washer won't operate. Opened the cabinet facing. Warning: there are plenty of YouTube videos on opening Maytag washers. None helped me with this model. I ended up finding the screws to open near the floor on front. Once it's opened, just replace the faulty switch, reconnect and you're in business. Getting the washer opened was about the hardest part of this repair. Total cost: Less than $30.

Disassembled washer as per directions with seal kit. Removed inner tub. Cut both tub shaft bearing in half; punched out from outter tub. Installed new bearings using .5 inch threaded rod, washer and bolts. Installed new seal on inner tub shaft. Installed inner tube. Re-assembled washer.

Purchased x4 new adjustable legs. Leaned the washer back and held in place with block of wood. Loosened the two older front legs with an adjustable wrench because they had a locking nut and replaced with new legs. Repeated process on back side of washer. Once all the new legs were installed leveled the machine adjusting the legs if necessary.

a nail from my pocket fell out and was in one of the holes in the in the tub and bound up the tub.when it wold try to spin.ordered the belt and had to order a pump also it melted the bearing in it

Removed the front panel, could see water leaking from the tub area near the shaft in the center of the machine. Dripping out once the water level reached the hub. Swing the top up, remove the large plastic ring at top of tub. remove the top of the agitor, pulls off easily. Remove the agitator with a firm pull up, not as easy but does come off. Removed the 4 bolt holding the tub. 2 broke off, but not to worry, the new kit has a complete hub. Pulled off the bell seal, pry up. Used an impact gun with 1-1/2" socket to remove the nut. The hub was frozen to the shaft. Tried a puller but ended up breaking the hub. I finally cut it off in pieces and pryed it off (the hardest part of job). Cleaned up the spline with a small file and patience. Installed the new seal kit. Ended up buying the M800 3M sealant on line. I went this far, another $40 for that. Fitted it all back up per instructions. No leaks. All good.