SWFX71QN Speed Queen Washer - Instructions

I watched the video on utube first, and thought this is a breeze. I'm older and so getting down on my but in the back was what I thought was going to be the hardest part. I removed the screws that held the back plate. Once inside the back I removed the plugs to the heating element with plyers, and the little round thing with nut driver. Ok, what now the video showed where the element just lifted out, mine didn't it was totally encased in the housing. So I felt around to see what was holding it and found a little screw on the backside of the housing, which took some work, and the head lamp so I could see, finally after all that I got the little screw out. The housing for the element still would not come out. so I went back to the video, no help there because the housing on the video just came out and went together about halfway up the housing, mine didn't it was just one piece, so I came here to parts select site and read what other people had said regarding their dryer. I found the information I needed. Thank goodness. I removed the two screws in the front of the lent trap, opened the top of my dryer removed the little Hex nut that held the housing in place, then I went back and removed the heating housing, replaced the element. It was kinda tight, but it fit. I went back to the front put the hex nut back on replace the two nuts in the lent trap closed the top of my dryer, sat back down and replaced that little round thermostate thingy, plugged in the wires to the heating element replaced the back plugged it in and Oh Yeah I had heat. The experience demanded a "High Five" , I felt like a million bucks- this old lady did it herself and the hardest part was having the correct information and getting up and down off the floor. Thanks for all the help!

Aser your instructions I ordered and replaced the elemateand now it is back to normal. Much thanks

With the power cord disconnected, of course, I removed the rear panel. I used an ohmmeter to check temperature switches and heating element. I did this by removing the wires from the switch, and touching meter leads to each terminal on the switch. When the reading showed 0 ohms, I knew the switch had continuity and was ok. There are three switches to test. If the heating element temperature switches are bad, then the heating element will not work. I found all switches to be ok. I then removed wires from element and tested. No change in reading when leads were touched to terminals. I removed the one screw that holds the heating element housing on and removed the assembly. Removed the element from the housing and checked the coils. I found a break in the coils. This sounds like a lot of time, but, it only took about 15 minutes to do all of this. The element only took a couple of days to arrive. I vacuumed all lint from dryer,installed the element,and assembled dryer in about 15 minutes. It works great. I think it took longer to find and order the part than it did to repair. The part, including freight , was about $30. That's a heck of a lot better than $500 or more for a new dryer! P.S. If you're worried about remembering where any of the wires go, just take a picture before you disconnect anything.

Following one of your site's more detailed repair suggestions, I began checking the higher percentage likelihood of failures and stepped-through to what my initial suspicion was: The Heating Element (13% ??). I first checked the fuse (rated at 73% probability) (both thermostats were rated very low as possible problems) and immediately went to the element. The failure was discovered in short order by checking continuity along the coils until a physical break appeared. The most helpful advice I received was from the pointers to remove the two screws attaching the heat vent/filter plenum in order to lift the dryer top and access the anchor screw attaching the top of the heating element box. I was over-joyed to find that the 29-year-old part number I entered, with the replacement number your system displayed, was PRECISELY the physical size and shape of the original heating element when I opened the package !! To borrow a page from the old PGA TV ad: "(You) guys are good." Many thanks !!

Researched the common problem with "dryer not turning on", and tested the top three problems. Removed the dryer front casing and door, unbolted front dryer plate. Used a volt meter on two of the temp gauges, which were fine. Removed the upper back plate of the dryer to the wiring for the knobs and buttons. Used the volt meter on the dryer start button, which was also fine. Went back around to the front and removed the door switch. Tested it with the volt meter and bingo. Replaced that part, dryer works like normal.

ordered and replaced heater element, did not fix the problem so ordered thermal fuse and cycling thermostat when it arrived installed them still did not work. Went to the next item on list thermal cutoff kit ordered it, when it arrived installed and BINGO!!! It works... $107.00 later a dryer that works!!!!!

it was easy to replace the element

Replaced Heating Element Works Fine Timed Dry Works Perfect But Auto Dry Has Heat Drys Clothes Fine But Won't Turn Off Dial Does Not Move Any Sugestions

checked element leads with voltmeter (set on ohms) - no continuity. - biggest problem is that the can over the element is screwed in from the back - you have to take out the lint filter and unscrew the two screws beneath it then pry open the dryer top - then you can unscrew the one screw holding the clamp on the can. This seems to be a feature added just so people would call out for repair - I can't imagine how it would have been quicker or easier to manufacture it this way. The can just pulls out and is hinged from the bottom - you may have to jerk on it after you remove the clamp. (pull from the top). One screw holds the element in. That is it for the replacement. Now the stupid part - check to see if the exhaust vent is clogged. I pulled several cubic feet of lint out and didn't bother to put a mask on and almost choked to death. I recommend you to get a dust mask before cleaning a tube longer than 8 feet.

Installing the new switch was a snap. With the dryer unplugged, open the top using a putty knife to release the 2 clips - one on each side. Lift the top and support it to stay open. Next, note the wire color and location for each of the 3 wires. Remove each wire from its prong on the bad switch by gripping the connector with pliers and pulling off. Next remove the bad switch by squeezing the tabs on the sides of the switch to release it. The switch removes to the front of the dryer. Install the new switch in the same method and reconnect the wires as before making sure the colors go back on the same prongs. I had to replace one of the connectors with a larger one (that came with the switch) since one of the prongs on the new switch was larger than the orginal (bad) switch. To do this, I cut the old connector off, stripped the end of the wire, and crimpted on the new connector. I had to be careful not to waste too much wire since there was very little slack to work with.

un plug power, pull out from wall,remove 5 screws and remove back cover. check heater element for curcuit found to be open. check the 2 temperature units on the heater housing, both ok. Remove the 2 flag connectors on the heating element, 2 wires each on temperature switches.remove upper heater case screw and bracker, lift and slide heater housing out of the dryer. Remove 1 screw holding heater element in the housing. compare old and new element, being the same. follow reverse steps and re assemble.

unpluged the unit removed exaust, pulled away from wall about 18 inches. Then leaned unit face down, remove back shield/cover also remove he two wires to elements. At the top of housing where element is in there is a screw that needs to be removed, then lift housing element is in side. Slide foward and lift to remove,to replace go in reverse.

Too simple to describe.

Turn off and unplug dryer, pull dryer away from wall to allow a decent working area. Remaoved use multi meter to assure no current flow, disconnect wires/remove at contact points. Remove panels and screwsnto expose heating element. Continue to remove screws from heating element, the only problem I had was reaching the top screw the is on the inside. I was able to squeeze my hand through an opening with a short/stubby flat head screw driver.

There are adequate repair examples in the forum especially one with the video. Pick one that you are confortable with and follow the guidelines remembering where the screws came out of off and using the magnetice extender to hold the screws removed. The video on the site was very helpful - the delivery time by partselect.com was impeccable.