DA9101 Speed Queen Washer - Instructions

Other guys have already spelled out in fine detail how to do the actual replacement. What I would add is this: First, I promised I wouldn’t swear during this repair. Second, I got everything I needed together including tools, a small bucket and some old newspaper to soak up the water that is sure to spill. I bought 6 foot stainless steel hoses to replace the old rubber ones. THIS IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED as the last thing you need is a burst water line. Shorter hoses limit the distance you can move the washer without disconnecting them. The directions were wrong in that I did not need (nor could I use) the plastic sleeve over the outlet tube. So I very carefully had to pry this off without breaking the plastic bushing. And I had bent the clamp securing the outlet hose to the valve, and had a devil of a time getting it back on properly, so you may want to have a small tubing clamp handy as a replacement. Also, I checked for leaks before putting the valve back in place by holding it very carefully, powering up and turning the washer on and off a few times. Keep your fingers and sheet metal away from the terminals or your promise not to swear will be null and void! The last thing is that when I get into a project I go all the way, which meant pulling the washer all the way out and cleaning the floor and all the dust behind it, and even cleaning the washer itself. The result is my Maytag works like new, fills fast without the buzz and looks new, too. I love it when a plan comes together.

First you turn off the main water supply or turn off the valves at the wall behind the washer unit. Second you disconnect the hot and cold water lines going to the washer unit valve. You then use 1/4 closed end wrench to remove one screw. Then you use a flat head screw driver to remove the two screws holding the valve in place. At this point use a 1/4 socket drive to loosen the clamp that is holding the hose that feeds water to the valve. Remove the hose. Then you disconnect the four wires and re-connect the wires to the new valve. Re-install the hose to the valve. Then you are ready to put it all back together.

Watched your video and followed your instructions and it was very simple.We bought our maytag washer in 1988 next year it will be 30 years old we raised 3 children and for $21 and your video I hope to it last another 30 years

I watched your 'how to' video, then repeated the procedure on my own machine. The repair went pretty much like the video. The new valve corrected the problem, and in fact, fills the washer faster than the old valve. I also replaced the water supply hoses, as one started to leak after I jiggled it around during the repair. Very satisfied with the this sites experience.

Shut off the electricity (pulled thee plug). Working from the rear of the washer. Removed water hoses with Stillson wrench. Removed two self tapping screws with nut driver to get to the assembly. Slipped off the wires lugs one at a time from thee old assembly and slipped them onto the new valve assembly in the same location. Installed the new assembly. Attached the water hoses to the new inlet valves. Note: My washer had the hot and cold valves identified on the washer. The replacement valve assembly was marked hot and cold (H, C.). which was the reverse of the marking on the washing machine. Go by the marking on the washing machine.

After disconnecting the power and removing the input hose connections I was able to remove the valve assembly through the back panel. I then removed the wires from the valve and disconnected the outlet hose. I removed the old valve and replaced it with the new one. Then reattached the outlet hose and 4 wires to the new valve. The assembly then was reinserted into to the back panel and screwed into place. Reconnect the input hoses and plug it in and it's ready to be tested for leaks & used. (I had no leaks, BTW. A little silicone grease on the fittings made reassembly go easier but it's not needed. )

un hook electric and shut off water:
had to remove top of washer
remove two screws holding valve in place
un hook water line and elec. wires from valve
reverse to put new valve on
Billy Myers
Alamogordo,NM 88310

Terrified that the washer water value would blow due to the noise... Diagnosed the problem, ordered the part and it took only 10 minutes to fix. The hardest part was moving the washer in the confined space, which required moving the driver out and sliding the washer at a 45° angle in order to reach the access panel. Once access gained it was straight forward. Step 1 removed fill hoses from supply. Backed the valve assembly out; detached water hose from value assembly with nut driver; detached wires'; value released; added new value and reverse process. Checked for leaks, reassembled fill hoses with new washers (stainless steel hose), ran cycle, checked for leaks, replaced washer in original position Need commend the video producer and repair person in the video. The narrative gave me the confidence that, Yes, I can do this.

Followed video that came with part.

Removed 2 screws on the bottom of the front of the washer and pried the front off. Then removed 2 more screws for the top of washer and rocked it back to expose the water inlet vavle. Removed the water inlvet vavle and replaced it. Then put it all back together. Done

Part shipping was great got here in two days-

I pulled off Front panel (two screws) and lifted Top panel (2 screws) and disconnected the inlet hoses. I removed the old Inlet valve. (1 scew and valve to tub hose connection).

Before Installing the new valve, i shifted the connector positions on the selenoids to match the old valve. and installed by reversing the steps. All went very smooth. Thanks, It was easy.

1. Removed hoses 2. Removed inlet valve. 3. Took valve apart to discover defect in diaphram. 4. Looked up and ordered part. 5. Replaced inlet valve. 6. Tested washer.

I followed steps outlined on you web page.

Simple removal of the mounting plate holding the old valve to the rear of the machine followed by disconnection of the water hose to the washer from the valve and unplugging of four electrical connections. Reattached the new valve to the water hose and then reattached the new valve to the mounting plate, finally reconnecting the wiring connections (4). Installation completed by reattaching the valve mounting plate to the washer. The diagnosis was confirmed by blowing into the old valve's water inlet. Air would pass through the valve, confirming that it did leak when the valve was closed. Air blown through the new valve prior to installation would not pass through the new valve.

When the part came in, it was just a matter of getting the old part out, and replacing it! Incredibly smooth---the hold down screws were obvious, so once I got them out---the part came out of the machine, I disconnected the two control wires, reconnected them to the new part---and reinstalled!

I first shut off the cold and hot water hoses so that no water would run while replacing the part. After that I made sure to unplug the washer .Then I removed the plate that was holding the water inlet valve with a 1/2 " nut driver ,I think there were four bolts .Then I removed two more bolts from the center of the plate that were holding the water inlet valve.I then disconnected one 1/4 " screw or I should say loosened one which held the main water hose going into the washer which then released the part ,except from four wires. I then took one wire off at a time and attached to the new part one at a time.Finally, I was finished and reconnected everything .It worked perfected !I'am very happy and pleased . This washer is over 25 years old and still runs .