LWS17AW (PLWS17AW) Speed Queen Washer - Instructions

took front of washer off;took sheetmetal bolts out of the base and lifted sheetmetal surround. disconnected filler hose and water level tube, took sheet metal jacket completely off machine and disconnected 4 of the 6 drum tensioner springs. Tilted drum back at 45 degree angle and removed pump unit. Changed tensioner pulley and drive belt. Reassembled works great! Thank You. We got the machine for free from our my inlaws because it made a funny noise. We ran it for a year with the funny noise and it worked great til one evening it just got tired and quite. We were going to go buy a new washer the next day but decided to go online first and check about parts; Glad we did;only cost $80 to fix! Thanks again!

I read instructions on how to change the pump. I unplugged the washer and then I took off the front panel.I removed the hose clamps and removed the two hoses from the pump.Then I removed the two front springs that hold the drum in place. Be careful because these springs are under tension. I removed the 4 bolts that held the motor to the tub. I unplugged the wires leading to the motor. I removed the motor. I turned the motor upside down and removed the pump and belt. I ordered a belt along with the pump because it was worn. It is best to note how the belt is installed. I took a picture before removing the pump from the motor for future reference if needed. Installation of the new pump and belt was not difficult. I worked the belt around the drum pulley and made sure it turned freely. After completing installation I ran the washer through a short cycle to check for leaks before installing the front cover.

knife to losen top, remove rear tabs securing top, unplug electical from timer and switches, unplug front door wiring, 2 bolts remove front, lift front pannel to remove. tape belt on drum on top. under drum you can see the belt around worn pulley. lift idler pulley assembly, remove belt from pulley, snap ring holds pulley in place remove woren pulley, install new, replace snap ring, restring belt. remove tape. spin drum to assure alignment. reassemble.

I read everyone else's stories and tried this for myself. I am by no means a handy person. This was extremely easy and took me about 10 minutes. I would suggest to everyone to try this for themselves if they have the same problem as I did. Anyone can do this.

Took off part and replaced it very easy instructions.

Purchased x4 new adjustable legs. Leaned the washer back and held in place with block of wood. Loosened the two older front legs with an adjustable wrench because they had a locking nut and replaced with new legs. Repeated process on back side of washer. Once all the new legs were installed leveled the machine adjusting the legs if necessary.

Replaced water inlet valve with the water inlet valve kit. We ordered it on Monday morning. The part arrived the next day, Tuesday. New inlet valve was put in on Wednesday. It took less than 15 min., and my washer was working! Very impressed!

Just as everyone else explained, disconnect power and water supply, lift top of machine to get to part, disconnect old part and replace exactly with new, hook water and power supply back up and you're done. I was pleased and proud to have done it under 30 minutes (girl power!!) and that included start to finish.

Removed the plate screws. Found valve, unplugged wires, removed hose and replaced reattaching everything. Replaced plate. Done

The new hose was exactly like the one I removed. It was simply a matter of putting the new hose through the back, replacing the hose clamp, take the piece off the old hose that makes the bend in the hose to go in the wall drain. Replace the lower front panel with two screws and I was done.

Replaced the inlet mixing valve. Two screws and two electrical plug ins and you are done.

The hardest part was removing the tub from washer by myself. I simply removed the bolts holding the sides to the bottom of the unit and lifted it straight off. Be careful when you remove the springs from the drum so they don't spring back and puncture the drain line. Thank you RTV gasket maker. Once the drum was free from the base, i tilted the drum back exposing the pump housing. I used a pair of pliers to remove both drain lines then removed the 3 hex screws freeing the pump. I had no problem removing it from the motor shaft, it slipped right off. I put everything back together as easily as it came apart.

Removed the tension spring from the belt retention belt, removed the belt from the large pulley in the back of the washer, removed the 4 bolts holding in the motor and washer pump, removed wiring harness, disconnected the inlet and outlet hoses from the pump and pulled out the motor and the washer pump. Turned the motor over and using the Torx driver (#20) removed the 3 bolts holding on the pump. Gently wiggled and pried the washer pump off of the motor, replaced the pump and tightened down the Torx bolts carefully so the pump didn't crack or break it is just plastic, but had to be sure the pump was seated tightly so the pump would fit back into place and also so it wouldn't leak, after making sure it was tightly attached I reversed the process to put it back together.

Although the Maytag website no longer had a repair manual in their database, I was able to locate one fairly easily online. After removing the motor/washer pump, it was easy to remove the 3 screws holding the washer pump to the motor. Unfortunately, it turned out the motor hub shaft had corroded and removing the pump needed some ... persuasion. Patience and a rubber mallet eventually separated the water pump from the motor. Re-installing went quickly and, so far, no leaks and the washing machine has not started walking across the floor.

thought wire between hot and cold valve was to short but after many phone calls found out valve could be ajusted by prying carefully up clips and moving valve closer not in directions