LWS04AW-PLWS04AW Speed Queen Washer - Instructions

Pulled the old knob off and replaced with new knob
PartSelect sent me the exact part you can't tell the difference.

Found out that these switches go from time to time and are usually the culprit when the washer won't operate. Opened the cabinet facing. Warning: there are plenty of YouTube videos on opening Maytag washers. None helped me with this model. I ended up finding the screws to open near the floor on front. Once it's opened, just replace the faulty switch, reconnect and you're in business. Getting the washer opened was about the hardest part of this repair. Total cost: Less than $30.

tilt the washer back removed bottom panal .removed bracket holding motor took motor out removed 3 scewer holding pump. took belt off put new one on. about 45 mins pretty easy job

We did not have instructions on how to remove broken agitator. Looking online, we found easy instructions but found it difficult to remove the agitator even though it was supposed to be an easy task.
Our particular model was supposed to "pop" off with little resistance. Not so!
It took some stong muscle and will power to remove the part but putting the new agitator on was simple.

Since the agitator and bell housing seperated as once piece from the drive shaft I didn't have to remove them and the schematic showed how the agitator snapped on to the bell housing and the parts I needed for the fix. The new seal went on with no problem, I just used some of the supplied grease on the tight spots. The hardest part was attaching the bell housing. It came to within an inch of the top of the shaft with no problem with a rubber hammer. But the top screw shroud broke when I tried to hammer it the rest of the way using a wood dowel and a block of wood. I couldn't even get the threads of the supplied screw to even touch the drive shaft. So I bought a longer (1 inch) cap screw from the hardware store and added a washer and suplied ring. After torqing it to 5 ft-lbs instead of the 10-20 the plastic beneath the screw was looking kind of thin and stressed and I was afraid of it breaking through or the screw snapping off in the shaft, so I left it alone and used some silicone caulk to seal in the plug that goes in on top of the screw since the side of the shroud broke off. I slipped on the agitator and am testing a load now as we speak. If I get ten more years out of the washer it will definitely be worth the $100 in parts and shipping !

Removed lower front cover--two screws. Removed motor/pump assembly after disconnecting electric and water hoses. Seperated pump from motor. Installed belt, then reconnected pump to motor. Reinstalled motor/pump assembly, while rotating belt onto drum pulley. Reinstalled eclectric and water hoses. Buttoned front cover back up. Done.

Repair went well using posted instructions. My advice is always replace pump as you will damage seal when pulling pump off shaft.

knife to losen top, remove rear tabs securing top, unplug electical from timer and switches, unplug front door wiring, 2 bolts remove front, lift front pannel to remove. tape belt on drum on top. under drum you can see the belt around worn pulley. lift idler pulley assembly, remove belt from pulley, snap ring holds pulley in place remove woren pulley, install new, replace snap ring, restring belt. remove tape. spin drum to assure alignment. reassemble.

My Amana washing machine burned up a second belt in about three weeks. Prior to that, the spin cycle was very loud. Online research revealed the problem was most likely the hub bearing. I ordered a new bearing, belt and hub and seal kit. The repair is a difficult one as the parts have been on the tranmission shaft many years with the mounting corrosion and mineral build up. I was able to pull the agitator off with no problem. The drive bell would have been easier to pull had I used a gear puller but did not own one. I use two crow bars to lift it off the shaft and I knew I'd be replacing it anyway so was not concerned about damaging it although I didn't. The most difficult part to remove was the large hex nut. I didn't want to purchase the tool to remove it so I used an open end adjustable wrench adn a hammer to remove it. However it took many hours of soaking the nut in sprayed on WD-40 to loosen it. For a while I thought it wasn't going to budge. Oh and btw, the nut comes off counterclockwise on this model. This is important. Other makes of washers have left handed threads, requiring clockwise removal, but this one does not. The hub assembly was pulled using the crow bar method. Again, it was going to be replaced anyway. The lint filter was cleaned and reused. The remainder of the dissassembly went OK using the directions in the repair manual. http://www.scribd.com/doc/8677902/Amana-Top-Load-Washer-Service-Manual. Reassembly went fine using the repair manual accept that the new drive bell was much more difficult to drive onto the shaft than I thought it would be. I eventually got it on using my shop vac rigid tube to go around it and hammering on a block of wood placed on top of it. I also used this shop vac tube to seat the seal that goes on the shaft just before the drive bell. It was the perfect tool for it as I wasn't going to purchase the special tool suggested in the repair manual. I'd already purchased $185 in parts. The kits come with grease but not the anti seizure compound or the industrial sealant needed. The anti seisure compound can be purchased from an auto parts store. It's not expensive. The industrial sealant is expensive. After researching what it was and why it was needed, I took a chance on silicone sealant. I'm not suggesting it is a good substitute but my washer has not leaked after 5 loads. Plus the sealant is really a backup to the main seal that goes on the transmission shaft before the hub assembly. But I'm pleased overall with the parts and accompanying directions and the washer is working great, spinning quietly. This is not an easy repair. It takes patience and a place to work on it. Frankly, with other things to do as well as go to work, it took me four days to complete, mostly due to the difficulty in removing the large hex nut. It might be worth investing in the removal tool if you're unsuccessful using home tools. Good luck.

Removed the front panel, could see water leaking from the tub area near the shaft in the center of the machine. Dripping out once the water level reached the hub. Swing the top up, remove the large plastic ring at top of tub. remove the top of the agitor, pulls off easily. Remove the agitator with a firm pull up, not as easy but does come off. Removed the 4 bolt holding the tub. 2 broke off, but not to worry, the new kit has a complete hub. Pulled off the bell seal, pry up. Used an impact gun with 1-1/2" socket to remove the nut. The hub was frozen to the shaft. Tried a puller but ended up breaking the hub. I finally cut it off in pieces and pryed it off (the hardest part of job). Cleaned up the spline with a small file and patience. Installed the new seal kit. Ended up buying the M800 3M sealant on line. I went this far, another $40 for that. Fitted it all back up per instructions. No leaks. All good.

With the right tools this job, should not be that complicated, to me the hardest part was finding the right tools, 1/4 inch small rachet ( the smallest the better,) with a 2 inch extension and a Torx head socket, also known as a 6 lobe,(T25 thats the # that is on the socket) also you need a flat head screw driver,or a 1/4 socket to take the cover off.. and of course the right belt, you might also need a flash light, watch out for spiders, specially black widows, i found a few, First you take the cover off, it should be the easiest part, then, put the rachet,( the smallest the better) with the 2 inch extension and the socket, to take out the water pump, it should be white, it should be only three screws, take your time, when taking out the screws hold them so they don't fall, in to the whasher, it happened to me and it took me a long time to find one of the screws, once you take the 3 screws move the water pump aside it should just drop down from the shaft that drives it, it is not necessary to take the hoses off the pump, put the new belt in place, make sure place it trough the tensioner, there is a guide in the AMANA web site when if you are not so sure, on how the belt goes, once you place the belt, put the water pump back, put the three screws back, put the cover back, run the machine trough a new cycle, Reason why is because i try to run it trough the spin cycle only after i put it together and the belt wouldn't spin, only the motor,Don't forget to unplug the power from the wall before staring all this, I hope this was of some help to you,

a nail from my pocket fell out and was in one of the holes in the in the tub and bound up the tub.when it wold try to spin.ordered the belt and had to order a pump also it melted the bearing in it