RTW4640YQ0 Roper Washer - Instructions

Very simple repair with the kit. Old rods came out easily using vise grips locked on to rods about 10-12 inches down and pulling up. Had doubts if they were bad since everything looked good but drum bounced back several times when I shoved it down to test it earlier. New rods went in just as easy and replaced in less than 30 min. Hardest part was that I had very cramped laundry room so had to move and disconnect hoses etc. to move into larger space for repair and then move back to reconnect. Parts came quickly within about 3 days and now purrs like a kitten!

Followed video on your web site, and used that for ways to fix, good directions. If I was more organized it prob would of taken about an hour or less

This washer would not go into spin cycle without going out of balance no matter how we arranged the contents in the drum. We were looking to buy a front loader when I happened open this company with video instructions and positive comments from other people with the same issue. For the cost it was worth a try. Following the video and in less than one hour the washer was back in service. It now operates like the day we installed it new. Highly recommend this fix which should save you hundreds on a new washer.

Started by replacing the lid latch assembly but this did not fix the problem. Parts Select representative suggested replacing the drive pulley clutch assembly. I order this and a new shift actuator. Had difficulty installing the new black shift actuator as it has a different electrical connection location from the original red part. The plug on the existing wiring harness would not reach the socket on the new black shift actuator. I had to remove the socket from the new black actuator casing so the plug would reach the socket. Washer is now working.

Replacing the part was fairly easy. However it did not resolve the problem. The spin cycle did not activate,leaving my washer full of water. We ordered another Maytag Washer. Hopefully this one doesn't break down for a long time.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Having been out of the business for quite a few years I thought that I was dealing with a direct drive machine. Thinking that it was the motor coupler. I removed the control panel and attempted to pull the cabinet froward. Not so, it had a solid cabinet, so I tilted the machine against the wall and looked under the washer finding the driven Transmission pulley loose on the shaft. The splines on the pulley were pretty well worn but I tightened the nut and it worked okay. But I ordered a pulley and replaced after it's arrival. The motor capacitor also broke it's mount off so I had to rehang it with zip ties and repaired the wires to the Capacitor, (Which BTW had about 22 gauge wire). I found it hard to believe that they would use such small wire.

Figuring out how to take the lid off was the hard part. Took out the old and replaced with new and put lid back on and rehooked up.

At first I had to position the washer so I could get access.. after having it positioned, I figured it out. Getting the clamp fastened, I was done.

First I removed the two screws on the back of the control console( at the bottom, phillips head). Flip that up and out of the way. Then you could remove the 2 big clips that hold the back of the washer to the cabinet. Disconnect the lid switch and flip the cabinet forward and out of the way. Remember when putting the cabinet back on, line up the slots on the bottom of the cabinet with the toungues on the base. Next pull off the fabric softner dispenser, then reach down in there and pull out the bottom seal of that to expose the bolt that hold the agitator on. Remove that bolt and pull off the agitator. Remove that little clip and the plastic piece above the spanner nut. I didn't have a spanner wrench so I hade to use a small extension from my socket set and a hammer to loosen it. Once that is removed then you could remove the ring around the top of the tub, and pull the tub off. Now you could see the block and probably all the metal shavings it's been creating. If the two ears that stick up and fit in to the block are worn, you should replace that too. I think you hve to replace that from the bottom. Now just put it all back together. Print out the exploded diagram from the web sit so you have it right there. Good luck!

I had to remove 3 screws from the back of the washer to be able to lift the top. Then remove 3 screws under the lid which held the switch in, unplug the old part and put the new one in. It was quite sinple. The most difficult part was figuring out you have to slide the top of the washer forward a bit to be able to tilt it up.

lift top with putty knife unhook wire , take two screws out and replace with new part.

Disassembled ,as assembled.

Took the back of the control panel off, lifted the top of the washing machine up took off nuts holding the latch lock off, installed the new parts put back together. Piece of cake...because i got the right parts the first time. Thank you PartSelect.

Removed two brackets on back top of washer that hold top secure. Pulled top forward and up off off pins located on front top of washer. Located switch removed two screws holding it in. Then removed Panel on back of top in order to get to controls and unplugged other end of switch. Then reversed procedure and waher was back in service.