RTW4640YQ0 Roper Washer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Terry from HANCOCK, MD
- Parts Used:
- WPW10006384
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
washer wasn't spinning after rinsing but the motor was running
I had taken the time to watch videos of this repair so when the switch arrived I knew what I had to do. Removing the screws to get the back cover off was simple as was installing the switch. No tricks here just watch the videos and your all set to do the job
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When washer would go into spin cycle it would shake violently. This also prevented the spin cycle from completing leaving clothes soaked
Followed videos sent with the repair items. It was very easy and solved my issue. My washer did not have the centering springs to begin with so I was unsure if I even needed them. But after replacing all the suspension rods and adding the pack of centering springs this has solved my issues
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- Customer:
- Ernestine from CARRIERE, MS
- Parts Used:
- W10780048
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Making noise when spinning tub hit side of washer.
Remove top of washer suspension
Rod goes on side of tub .
Rod goes on side of tub .
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- Customer:
- Terry from HANCOCK, MD
- Parts Used:
- W10404050
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
washer wasn't spinning on final spin
First I found and reviewed videos on line to do the repair for my machine and when I actually did it the videos made it simple to do. Always look for videos of the installation for your machine or appliance and the job will go easy
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- Customer:
- David from BELMONT, MI
- Parts Used:
- W10404050
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Lid lock/latch stuck closed
Watched a video
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Washer was out of balance on spin cycle
I do not know much about washer repair and after watching how to replace the suspension rods I decided it was not as difficult as I thought. I replaced the suspension rods and springs and that fixed the problem. The price for parts was reasonable and I received my parts in 2 days.
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- Customer:
- Joseph from BAKER, FL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10006384, W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Loose pulley
Tightened up the pulley as the video showed me that might be the issue.
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- Customer:
- Angelo from PORTLAND, ME
- Parts Used:
- W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
The wash cycle made a loud grinding noise when it went from filling to wash.
I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained.
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!
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- Customer:
- Chet from CLEARWATER, FL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10006384, W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
heavy loads did not spin dry properly
I followed the instructions provided by the video which I thought were spot on. Even to the size of the phillips screw driver.
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- Customer:
- TERRY from WAUKEE, IA
- Parts Used:
- W10721967
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
When the washer goes into a spin cycle, I would hear an intermittent loud clattering noise. I think the clutch teeth above (the cup part that is spring loaded) and the belted pulley's teeth below are not fully seating on each other during the spin cycle.
W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit
Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.
When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.
Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.
Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.
Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.
When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.
Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.
Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.
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- Customer:
- Michael from Staten Island, NY
- Parts Used:
- WPW10276397
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Socket set
The washer stopped draining.All the pump motor did was hum.
I drained the machine and pulled it away from the wall.Then I disconnected the drain hose and removed the back panel.Next,I removed the three screws holding the pump in place and disconnected the power plug from the motor.I then removed the short drain hose from the pump.Installation was the opposite of the removal sequence,and the machine worked fine right after I was done.The new part was identical the the old one,and the job was a snap.
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Suspension rods were worn; washer is 10+ years old
Replaced the suspension rods, suspension rod supports, main drive belt, tub centering springs, water supply hoes, and washer drain hose. Taped new front suspension rods to side of tub to ensure that they did not slide down when raising the washer off its back from the floor. Had a helper lift the tub, which made attaching the new suspension rods easy. The tub is extremely heavy so by a helper lifting it up it made attaching the new suspension rods much easier. IMPORTANT: According to the technician's manual, which was taped to the inside of the washer, it is absolutely necessary to recalibrate the washer after replacing any suspension parts. We did this by following the instructions in the tech manual. Failure to recalibrate a washer could result in poor performance. The procedure is different for each brand or model of washer, but again is absolutely essential after replacing suspension parts of any kind. For some unknown reason, our washer did not have the tub centering springs. Our model should have had the springs.Facing the washer, we attached one to the front left tub housing and one to right rear of the tub housing. Recommend that anyone watch the installation videos for the suspension rods, center springs, and main drive belt before attempting the repairs.
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The washer was vibrating very bad on large loads
Using the parts I ordered and following the instructions provided in the video from partselect.com made the repair very easy and solved the problem
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- Customer:
- Charles from SEALY, TX
- Parts Used:
- W10404050
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Washer gets stuck on Rinse and not complete the cycle.
Found common diagnosis and instructions on internet. It is not difficult to replace.
Unfortunately, this new latch assembly did not fix the problem.
Unfortunately, this new latch assembly did not fix the problem.
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- Customer:
- Mary from GROVER HILL, OH
- Parts Used:
- WPW10683603
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Water would not stop running over filled the washer
Unplugged the washer turned off the water disconnected the water lines then took the cover off and disconnected the wires and took 2 screws out and took the old part out and put the new 1 in
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