RAK2751KQ0 Roper Washer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- david from WEBSTER, NY
- Parts Used:
- 285785
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
When the washer went to spin, first a grinding sound then THUMP, THUMP, THUMP
The washer agitated ok, so I figured it wasn't the motor or agitator. Watching the repair videos, I assumed the clutch might be the culprit. The videos are very good, so I should have taken the machine apart and actually looked at the clutch - it wasn't too bad. Trying to put the new clutch on anyway, I noticed it didn't turn on level. I thought it wasn't seated correct, but it was then I realized the shaft was tilting. This would explain the THUMP, and the grinding must be a gear inside the transmission. As much as I hate to get a new machine, given the tremendous downturn in quality, I think that because this machine is old, it is not worth a $200 transmission. Anyone need a brand new (but test fitted so not returnable) clutch?
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- Customer:
- Albert from ROSELLE, IL
- Parts Used:
- 285744
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Machine made loud banging noise and vibration when running and tub ran off center
Disassembled top control console and surrounding sheet metal cabinet per the video from this site. i then used a screw driver to carefully pry up each wear pad location individually and inserted the wood wedge. to about 1 1/2 inch height. rwmoved the old wear pads and popped in the new pads one by one. Closed up the unit and tested the machine . It ran like new. No more noise or viberation
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- Customer:
- David from Kansas City, MO
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The water was not switching properly, hot water was barely coming out.
Installed part, now it works great!
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- Customer:
- Jim from Waxahachie, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP3357328
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
a mouse got in the washer looking for water and chewed up the hose
I WATCHED YOUR VIDEO AND IT CHANGED OUT VERY GOOD IT WAS NOT AS HARD AS I THOUGHT IT WOULD BE. I HAD TO TAKE IT APART 3 TIMES. HE CHEWEW THE HOSES ON THE PUMP AND THE LITTLE HOSE THAT GOES TO THE WATER FILL CONTROLE. I THINK I AM A WASHER EXPERT.I AM 81 YEARS OLD SO ANYONE CAN DO IT.
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- Customer:
- Helen from NASHUA, NH
- Parts Used:
- WP89503
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Leaking water inlet hoses.
Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.
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- Customer:
- Paul from Milwaukie, OR
- Parts Used:
- WPW10250667, WP63907, 285744
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
shaking on spin cycle
Removed the outside body of washer. Used 1/2 plywood between drum and wear pads to make space to pry out pads with screwdriver. Replaced suspension springs and tub spring (use waterproof grease on end of springs. Put washer back together and tested. Problem solved washer not walking all over floor anymore. Thanks for you help.
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- Customer:
- Connie from BATON ROUGE, LA
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
leaking valves
We watched a video on YouTube; it was very easy . We had to use the mounting bracket.
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- Customer:
- Michael from Wantagh, NY
- Parts Used:
- 285671
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Washer would stop mid-cycle - Lid switch was broken.
This website was such a big help. I just followed the directions of the other prople who answered. I was able to do this even though I am not that mechanically inclined. The toughest part was removing the two metal clips that hold the back to the top. I needed a screwdriver to lift these out, but after this the repair was a simple matter of following the old switch line along the inside top of the washer body, removing the ground wire (a bit tricky because you have to lean the unit foward while trying to remove a screw that hangs down at the same time). and screwing in the new unit. Thanks to everyone who posted comments before. You were real life savers (and saved me hundreds of dollars in repair costs or replacement fees!!!!!!!). Thanks again!
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- Customer:
- JAMES from GREENSBURG, PA
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Squealing noise when filling washer; water leak in tub; cold water filling slowly.
Removed screws from top control panel. Tilted panel back. Unsnapped two retaining clips and pulled entire washer cover forward. Turned off water and uplugged washer. Disconnected hot and cold water supply. Disconnected supply tube from water inlet valve. Disconnected electrical hook-ups to water inlet valve. Removed water inletvalve. Installed new valve being careful to use new mounting plate supplied and making sure screw holes line up correctly. Re-connected all disconnects and it works like new!
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- Customer:
- david from BREMO BLUFF, VA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10250667, WP63907
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Shaking during spin cycle
Followed the video. Removed the case and holder clips (not really needed) and replaced the springs. It did nothing to stop the problem and there are no more fixes.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Henrico, VA
- Parts Used:
- 285785
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Kenmore Series 80 Lazy Spin
Remove metal cover; remove pump, remove motor, remove tub spin assembly; remove transmission. Remove clutch be removing retaining ring. Installation was reverse. No problems, part worked like champ.
Note: Called Sears to see if I could get the part locally. Turns our I had to call an 800 number. Lady said that the part was not carried and would have to be shipped from warehouse. Tried to sell me some discharge hoses. Then said the part would cost $65 before S&H. Told her I didn't want to spend that much, she asked how much I wanted to spend and seemed upset when I told her your price. She didn't comp it, just said that theirs was an official part from Sears, blah, blah, blah. Anyway, thanks for the great service!
Note: Called Sears to see if I could get the part locally. Turns our I had to call an 800 number. Lady said that the part was not carried and would have to be shipped from warehouse. Tried to sell me some discharge hoses. Then said the part would cost $65 before S&H. Told her I didn't want to spend that much, she asked how much I wanted to spend and seemed upset when I told her your price. She didn't comp it, just said that theirs was an official part from Sears, blah, blah, blah. Anyway, thanks for the great service!
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- Customer:
- Matthew from Affton, MO
- Parts Used:
- W10814296
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
The washing machine was leaking.
I followed the provided video for changing the centerpost gasket.
I successfully completed the repair. I will say that I had challenges at almost every step. Getting the inner basket off the centerpost was difficult, as was rocking the outer tub upward from the base.
If a man is somewhat handy, this is a doable repair. Be patient and take your time. The video is very helpful and I don't think I could've done the repair without it. It's a pleasure to watch an expert like Steve.
It's gratifying to successfully repair a major appliance such as a washing machine and I look forward to many more years of reliable service from this well-built appliance.
I successfully completed the repair. I will say that I had challenges at almost every step. Getting the inner basket off the centerpost was difficult, as was rocking the outer tub upward from the base.
If a man is somewhat handy, this is a doable repair. Be patient and take your time. The video is very helpful and I don't think I could've done the repair without it. It's a pleasure to watch an expert like Steve.
It's gratifying to successfully repair a major appliance such as a washing machine and I look forward to many more years of reliable service from this well-built appliance.
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- Customer:
- James from ARVADA, CO
- Parts Used:
- WP62780
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Leaked, disassembly revealed it was the drive seal washer grommet. Drive block was also rusted out and frozen to the washer drum
Disassembled lower part found nothing wrong.
Started disassembly from the top. Immediately ran into trouble not knowing exactly how the tub was anchored to the drive. Once I got down to the tube and drive block there was nothing I could do to go further. I guessed it was a press fit onto the drive, but there were many instructions and I couldn't be sure. Parts Select expanded drawing was the most useful tool; it was correct omitting a few details. Anyhow, cleaning out my garage I found one of my old gear pullers that I could ring to complete the disassembly. All the sudden I was in business, pulling the washer drum off the drive block and shaft, getting down to the leaky lower seal. A that point it was just a matter of cleaning everything up and buying all the rusted out parts to reassemble. I spent $150-200 on parts, but its completely rebuilt now and runs like a charm. Probably have around 20-50 hours all told, into the repair. Most of this was reading instructions, watching videos, and trying to figure out the rest (3). Doing the actual work spread over time until my wife and sons threatened to throw the thing out. Never. Once I decide I'm gonna do something, I do it. LOL!
Started disassembly from the top. Immediately ran into trouble not knowing exactly how the tub was anchored to the drive. Once I got down to the tube and drive block there was nothing I could do to go further. I guessed it was a press fit onto the drive, but there were many instructions and I couldn't be sure. Parts Select expanded drawing was the most useful tool; it was correct omitting a few details. Anyhow, cleaning out my garage I found one of my old gear pullers that I could ring to complete the disassembly. All the sudden I was in business, pulling the washer drum off the drive block and shaft, getting down to the leaky lower seal. A that point it was just a matter of cleaning everything up and buying all the rusted out parts to reassemble. I spent $150-200 on parts, but its completely rebuilt now and runs like a charm. Probably have around 20-50 hours all told, into the repair. Most of this was reading instructions, watching videos, and trying to figure out the rest (3). Doing the actual work spread over time until my wife and sons threatened to throw the thing out. Never. Once I decide I'm gonna do something, I do it. LOL!
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- Customer:
- Glenn from Clearwater, FL
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
when cold water was entering the machine, there were really loud vibrations through the pipes. Sometimes the flow rate was very slow.
The hardest part was removing the machine's cabinet. 2 screws on either end of the control panel, tip the control panel back out of the way and remove 2 clips, then slide the cabinet off the front. Replacing the valve was very easy. I didn't need the mounting plate that came with it. At first it looked like the screw hole wasn't going to line up with the hole in the back of the machine, but then I noticed that the valve had a groove that allowed it to slide downward on to the back. Pretty easy overall.
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- Customer:
- alan from american fork, UT
- Parts Used:
- WP3363394
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench set
Water Pump leaked
We unscrewed the two screws at the back of the control panel. Holding the control panel on both ends
we pulled it toward the front of the machine, slightly and gently lifting it at the same time, removing it from the metal surround. Holding the control panel up off of the surround we rocked the surround forward and lifted it off the washing machine frame.
We could see where the leak was coming from. We took the hose clamps from the two ports, then
using a pair of pliers pulled the two clips that are holding the pump onto the shaft protruding from the
electric motor. We matched up the part on the web sight. Ordered the part then when it came in we just reversed the order putting the machine back together. The hardest and most time consuming
thing about this repair was the clean up of the washing machine. (Dirt and soap residue does
build up on the inside of the wash tubs.)
we pulled it toward the front of the machine, slightly and gently lifting it at the same time, removing it from the metal surround. Holding the control panel up off of the surround we rocked the surround forward and lifted it off the washing machine frame.
We could see where the leak was coming from. We took the hose clamps from the two ports, then
using a pair of pliers pulled the two clips that are holding the pump onto the shaft protruding from the
electric motor. We matched up the part on the web sight. Ordered the part then when it came in we just reversed the order putting the machine back together. The hardest and most time consuming
thing about this repair was the clean up of the washing machine. (Dirt and soap residue does
build up on the inside of the wash tubs.)
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