6443A (REV D) Norge Washer - Instructions

Unplug power cord; turn off hot and cold water supply; remove water hoses from machine; open top of machine by prying lid open; remove two hex screws holding water inlet valve in place; remove hose from top of old water inlet valve; remove 4 wires; connect bottom set of wires (red and white) to new water inlet valve; reinstall water hose to top of new water inlet valve; install new water inlet valve onto machine using same hex screws; connect remiaining red and white wires; install hot and cold water hoses to machine; turn on water supply valves at wall; reconnect wall plug; turn water type selector to cold, pull out timer and watched the water flow full-force for the first time in 2 years! Have wife give you a hug for saving cost of new washing machine!

I unplugged the machine, tipped it back slightly and rested in on a gallon paint can. I inspected the under side and manually advanced the fan belt to hear if I could hear the noise at the water pump. The pump pulley and shaft was worn and there were metal shavins (small) on surface of pulley.

Then I removed the belt from the pulley, rested the machine back to normal position, removed front panel (two sheet metal screws on inside top), removed the water pump hoses (htere is water int he hose & pump assembly so you will get some water on floor.

Then I removed the pump and ordered a new one. The installation was the reverse, machine works like new and the washer tub spins better than ever during the final rinse and spin, since the worn water pump was binding and stressing the machine.

Thanks to Part Select - Your website is awesome and your service instructions and user advice gave me the confidence to do the repair myself. I saved $150 - $250 for the repair.

Removed the inner basket and outer tub to replace the gasket and rubber seal. just had to remove about a dozen screws to get it out.

Tipped the machine up to replace the belt.
The noise didn't go away at first. I decided to spray all the pulleys with some silicone spray, that did the trick.

I took out the agitator first, then I took out the inner tub, next I took out the outer tub, and last I took out the transmission assembly. After replacing the snubber I put the transmission assembly back on, then the new outer tub and next the inner tub. Last I put the agitator back on.

Pop the top of the washer and use the nutdriver to remove the two screws holding the frontpanel on. Use the nutdriver for two more screws holding the plastic motor cover on. Use nutdriver for the two BIG screws holding the motorplate to the washer frame. After this, I literally beat/chiped/sawed the old motor geat off. Once that was done, I put the new one on; had to use a hammer to knock it all the way on (try not to damage the clips). Reassemble everything. Flip washer over and place bet around two smaller gears. Rotate main tub gear to feed belt on. Make sure you use the nutdriver to loosen/tighten the motor positioner screws in the slots if things aren't working here.
The only really hard thing was taking the old motor gear off.

Back of this washer did not remove, so we had to go in through the top--more restricting space. As you remove the old electrical metal contacts (two each of white and red), pay close attention to where they connect properly. Best to mark them so as not to confuse how to place new contacts. Also, we disconnected a white plastic hose on opposite side of top which determines load size and amount of water, so be sure to look for this.

Hardest part was figuring out how to get to the water valve. Turned out that the way in was from the top. All I had to do is remove two screws at the back of the top panel, and then unclip the front edge of the top panel (use a thin screwdriver to press in on the clips from the front of the machine). From there, it was easy to reach down inside and remove/replace the valve.

First , I unlocked top cover and propped; removed front cover. tilted machine back propping front. pump is at lower right corner, removed both hoses, removed belt and three screws. reversed order completing job. You will have some water leakage removing hoses.

I moved the washer out from the wall. unplugged washer, turned off water. Took off rear plate exposing pump. Disconnected hoses, using dry/wet vac to catch water. Took out three screws holding pump to base of washer and removed pump, belt slipped right off. Set new pump in place and put in screws. Connected hoses, put rear plate back on. Tilted washer back and installed belt on pulleys and motor. Turned on water, plugged in washer, started to wash clothes. Washer works fine and QUIET. I have yet to find the model number on my Maytag washer. I ordered the pump by sight (good pics).

I changed the piece easily

Followed the great instructions on your video

raised the top of the washer to get at the front panel screws. Removed the front panel. Removed the cracked hose and installed the new one. Reinstalled the front and top panels.

Removed front panel by releasing spring clips with putty knife and removed two screws with a ratchet and 5/16” socket. Removed rear access cover with a ratchet and 5/16” socket. Removed and replaced tub to pump hose. Loosened clamps on each end of hose with channel locks.
Re installed rear access cover and front panel.

The lid switch is on the right side top of the washer under the lid. I took a putty knife and found the clips that hold the top of the washer and pushed them to release it. I then lifted it up to fully see the lid switch. I unplugged the washer from the wall socket and took out the 2 screws that holds the lid switch in. Then unplugged the lid switch from its electrical connection and put the new one in its place. Washer is working great so far.

Disconnect Power. Disconnect supply hoses. Open top by releasing top retainer clips with a thin blade or putty knife. Remove 2 sheet metal screws retaining front cover. Remove front cover. Lay a blanket on the floor and lay the machine over on its side leaving access to the front where the panel was just removed. Take belt off. Remove pump hose at bottom of drum. Prop up drum so it is centered in its normal position and not laying to one side. Do this near the lid end. Remove all centering springs - carefully. Drum and transmission assy will now come out through the front opening. Flip drum assy upside down with transmission up. Loosen the screws (do not remove completely - WARNING OF 200 LBS SPRING LOAD!) that clamp the snubber ring to the transmission. Remove the old snubber ring and replace with new. Be sure it is completely under the flange all the way around. Tighten the retaining ring screws. Reassemble all parts in reverse order. Done. Be sure to level the machine per owners manual instructions.